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Posts posted by 280zjoel
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I actually bought the Vildini Motorsports weld in engine cradle, the trans mount i fabricated myself, driveshaft was cut, welded and balanced by a driveshaft shop. Actually most of my parts will be up for sale soon since im going LS power on my Z
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When i did my Sr20det swap on my Z, ( sr20det and kA24de bolt up exactly the same) I had to make a trans mount that bolted up to the trans tunnel, since the 280z trans mount location is different with the KA/SR trans, also you will need a custom driveshaft, since it actually needs to be shortened and fitted to the KA/SR splined shaft.
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Hey Guys! The project is still not dead, just kinda laggy. I finally sent the z over to my brothers shop to finish up the body work and paint the z. The color I ended up going with was 350z pearl white. So as soon as he gets around to painting it(might take a while) I will post pics and hopefully get it going on the road. Stay tuned!
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Cool build, that was a BIG job!
Im keen to see this come through, yay not dead!
Im in the process myself of doing the same conversion.
Would it be too much to ask to measure the angle which the engine slopes transversely?
Im struggling to find any rock solid info on the sr20....only found a throwaway comment on a miata forum which was "about 15 degrees".
Also what are your measurements from firewall to the back of the block? iv got 100mm, and the engine mounts are pretty much on top of /inline with the TC buckets, is that the same for you?
Cheers
Darius
I will check in a day or so and get you some measurements.
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Hey Guys! This Project is NOT dead. Just waiting on funds, the car is mostly stripped down right now for paint. Hopefully I get it painted in a month or so and post pics.
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when suddenly a.....
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while playing basketball.....
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Pat Mcgroin, who...
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Had a rash.....
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I had a similar problem on my 280z years ago. It would start up and then die after a few second. It ended up being a round resistor type sensor inside the dashboard around the steering column. I honestly cant remeber what it was called, but i changed mt fuel pump, changed a bunch of stuff and t dint fix the problem until i changed that sensor(or resistor, not sure what it was) out.
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Just out of curiosity, How come you mounted the SR20 so far forward in the engine bay?
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Hey Guys, Just though I would let everyone know that the project is NOT dead! I will have an update really soon with the car, ive been really busy lately. Actually funny story, my RHD conversion most likely will landed me a job doing RHD conversions on Big Rigs that are going to be exported out of the country. That just means more money for the Z!
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So is the car finished?
Well... um not really. This last year has been difficult financially so the Z has been on the back burner for awhile. I just moved, and i get the whole garage to myself for the Z so I will have some new updated soon.
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Here's mine! Dont have any good pics of the car itself, but here is a video of it after I did my Right hand drive conversion.
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Hey Guys, not much for an update but i did do some work on my harness today. Finally had some free time to get some work done on it. Here is a teaser video of me driving the car about a couple months back, before the harness decided to fry itself. The car runs great, even in this video, i was a tooth off timing but the car still drove amazing. After setting the timing right the car would brake traction in first gear even though i have 9.5'' wide wheels with 275/45/zr17 tires.
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LOOKS SWEET!!! Im definately digging the Hasami's (rims) on the your Z32.
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Here is a link to my thread on how to do a right hand drive conversion. Look through it, i posted some pics of the differences from LHD and RHD parts. The steering column IS different, but you might be able to modify it to fit.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84244-how-to-do-a-rhd-conversion/
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Your best bet is to sand the whole thing down since you dont know how good of a job the PO did on it. BUT if you really dont want do that, you might want to consider sand the area down with the rust to bare metal and sanding further out than the rust. For example If you have a rusty spot that is 3inchs in diameter, you could sand that area with a diameter of 6inchs to ensure you got rid of the rust. Also needs to be feather edged out so that it does not show up then you primer and paint it.
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Looks sweet!
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The nice thing about a Top-mount turbo is the fact that you can add a big turbo and not have problems with it fitting. When its bottom mount, your limited by how much space you have.
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Do you use any type of hood ducting to help pull air through?
Lol, it looks like the red Fairlady Z has a honda strut bar for a core support.
*EDIT*
Interestingly, I just picked up an 88 or so RX7 TurboII.
hahaha lol about the honda strut bar. I actually have two different hoods for the car. The First one was this:
My new one is the Nissan Competition hood vent:
I think this is definately going to be unique since I have never seen any Z with the competition hood vent and a G-nose front end.
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Excuse the dirty engine bay, but I did a Top Mount Intercooler setup on my 280z. To be honest with you, I absolutely LOVE it! The throttle response is so much better than with a regular front mount setup, due to the fact that the Intercooler piping is so short.
KA Mounting Question
in Nissan 4 Cyl Forum
Posted
Not sure why i cant msg you but my email is 280zjoel@gmail.com