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Dave

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Everything posted by Dave

  1. When you cut the lines and flared them did you use a SAE nut for 3/16" tube? The brass fittings in the propotioning valve and ebrake valve are not for metric flare nuts they are SAE. The 10mm X 1.0 nut that fits the rest of the Z's braking system will bind up before it bottoms out on the fitting. You might want to look at the seat in the brass fittings that are screwed in the 2 valves. They are soft and may be damaged from the crooked flares. The fitting is a 1/8" male pipe thread by 3/16" SAE inverted flair and should be stocked just about everywhere. Is the tubing your working with steel or is it stainless steel and did it come with the Japanese 10mm X 1.0 nuts? Did you reuse the tee in the back that splits the brake line?
  2. Just looked at mine and it says "Using swivel force adapter down until it rests flat against the flaring bar" and the picture shows it resting on the flaring bar. You will get more sealing surface by going that extra fraction. The directions on mine say to "chamfer the outside and deburr the inside with the reamer blade" The reamer blade on my cutter does a poor job, that is why I used the dill bit. Some even use a 45 degree counter sink. Where are you putting your proportioning valve? I have to do one for my 240Z but have not decided quite where.
  3. If the flares you are making have less sealing area then one of two things are happening. The tube is slipping in the tool as you begin the flare with the adapter or the tube is not pushed far enough through the tool. Does your adapter have the step in it? and are you setting the tube even with the step like the picture shows.
  4. No, if everything is lined up and the tool works at it should the flare will be centered. My old flaring tool that that I used to use always needed to have both halves lined up and at times the brake line would slip into the tool as I did the first part of the double flair. Clamp the tool together with out the brake line and see if the 2 halves are tight, mine was bent and I filed both halves until they were straight. If you are still working with the loaner tool and don't want to take a file to it you can use a large C-clamp or bench vice to force both halves together. At first I could not get a flare that was centered or that would seal until I fixed the tool. To chamfer the inside I use a drill bit and just did it by hand, and hit the outside with a file. I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool now, but honestly the old tool works as well but takes a little longer. Just be sure both halves are lined up, the bar halves mating surfaces are straight and the brake line is champfered in side and out and your flare will come out perfect. Even the cheap Harborfreight tool that everyone loves to hate works well if it is checked and fixed.
  5. With the double bar type with two wing nuts to tighten it the two bars must be made exactly parallel by hand before you tighten it. I do it by feel, there's a lot of slop. If these are not exactly parallel, when you attach the screw driven flaring tool it will cock to one side and the flare will be off-center. If the lines you bought are stainless steel the cutter will work harden it and it makes the job harder yet. A little WD 40 helps on the end of the tube. You can see the off-center flare looking down the end of the tube.
  6. Both TStewart and highflyer have bought the core instead of going the loaner route. For about $6 more than the loaner cost you can have the heart of the puller. All of the pieces needed to finish the puller are available at any hardware store. Here is the parts needed info link. http://www.v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Spindle-Pin-Puller/Packaged%20Directions/Spindle-Pin-Puller-Parts-Needed.rtf Here are the directions that come with the tool. http://www.v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Spindle-Pin-Puller/Packaged%20Directions/Spreader-Drawing-2.htm http://www.v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Spindle-Pin-Puller/Packaged%20Directions/eBay%20Pullers.rtf http://www.v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Spindle-Pin-Puller/Packaged%20Directions/Puller%20Instructions.doc The loaner program is still running, I just thought I would give another option.
  7. Here is another supplier of the Weatherpack terminals and tools. http://www.sherco-auto.com/cg.htm I have bought from them and was happy with their service. You might contact them about shipping to to Australia. Here is a eBay seller that has what looks like a kit with the Delphi crimpers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/160pc-Weather-Pack-Weatherpack-KIT-CRIMPER-PIN-TOOL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1207Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320313029536QQitemZ320313029536
  8. This brings up a good question, Is it OK to solder? what and when? Doing a Google search there are 2 camps some say yes and some say no. I know that if the solder wicks up the conductor any vibration can lead to the wire fracturing and a failure over time.
  9. Paladin 8000 series with the open barrel die set, about $45 for the tool and $20 for the dies. They work very well. There are actually 2 crimping actions that take place at the same time with the Paladin crimpers I have. A pin release tool is not a bad idea also, actually Radio Shack has a nice one #274-223. http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/wa/wcat/webpromo2.htm?promo=720PALA8000 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062447&cp=
  10. The 4 bolts on either end of the 1/2 shaft would snap first, and I have never seen or heard of that happening.
  11. Go ridgid and replace the entire line. The correct line is 3/16" with Japanese line nuts, the tube will be marked Japanese. Just about all parts houses will stock AGS brand lines. The length is 8" 12" 20" 30" 40" 51" 60" and 72" the part number will be BLJ-308 (8") BLJ-312 (12") BLJ-320 (20") up to the 72" line. The nut is 10mm X 1.0 threaded to the end. You should not need to flare the line since one of these sizes will be close. The cost will be less than $10.00 and you will find it easy. Just take your old one out and match the bends with the new line. It is actually easier to bend if you are wearing a pair of work gloves.
  12. The line came from a local autoparts store. It's listed as 3/16" Japanese and the nut size is 10mm X 1.0, The tube comes in 8", 12", 20", 30", 40", 51" 60" and 72". I used a pair of brake line bending pliers like the ones pictured below. Bending the lines is very easy with the pliers. Some of the larger radius bends are can be done by hand but come out nicer if you wear a good pair of gloves instead of doing it bare handed.
  13. I took my brake line to the right front caliper that crosses the firewall and runs down the right front frame rail and ran it from the brake pressure differential valve (the one with the electric plug) and ran it down the left frame rail and across the back side of the front cross-member. Here are the pictures that prompted that decision. http://www.v8-240z.com/files/Datsun/Brake-Line-Information/ In the picture the brake lines come out the bottom of the differential valve and the MC goes into the top. That is reverse of factory but works as well and is much cleaner. The line to the rears leaves the pressure differential valve and goes down the drivers side tunnel inside the car where I have a proportioning valve installed.
  14. Wonder if it would show up in a Breathalyzer? I can hear big-phil a year from now telling us how it caused drain bamage. You can't see methanol burning either, could be interesting if it vented and ignited.
  15. This has been posted before but it does fit here. I guess that you can say this engine cooks.
  16. I have the Mallory in mine but did remove the hood latch. With the stock latch still in place I could see no way to to do any engine work without pulling it back out. The stock latch keeps you from removing the distributor cap.
  17. Re-doing some of the brake lines on my 71 and found the AGS PolyArmour® Brake Lines on the Internet. Comes in 25" rolls for less that $20. Looks like 25 foot will do the entire car. The PolyArmour is a black PVF coated brake line that bends with out cracking and protects the tubing from kinking in a short radius bend. I believe the new GM cars use this stuff because of its corrosion Resistance. I have a Kent-Moore hydraulic flairing tool and have made many inverted flairs and not one leak. I just made some new bridge tubes for the rear brakes when I found the PolyArmour line. Has anyone used this stuff?
  18. I have a 260Z right hand drive dash, rack, pedal box and steering column along with other parts if your interested. PM me if you have questions.
  19. I will PM ya shortly, Lets take any comments, questions, suggestions and requests to the other thread I started. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=938527#post938525
  20. Go slow and use a heat gun and the paint will survive. http://www.rollyourfender.com/instruction.html
  21. Bought a fender roller a while back to use on my 71. Now that I am finished with it is there any interest in doing a loaner program like I do with the spindle pin pullers? Its not really a for rent program. I am thinking about charging shipping both ways like I do with the spindle pin pullers. __________________
  22. Bought a fender roller a while back to use on my 71. Now that I am finished with it is there any interest in doing a loaner program like I do with the spindle pin pullers? Its not really a for rent program. I am thinking about charging shipping both ways like I do with the spindle pin pullers.
  23. I have spent the last 2 days searching for any reference to swapping the 77-8 280Z rear brakes for what is stock on my 71 240Z. My motive is 69-76 wheel cylinders are $150-$200 a pair, 77-78 are $12-$25 a pair and are stocked everywhere. I have the complete backing plates from a 77-8 Z and see no reason why they will not work. I realize I need to pull the axles to swap this stuff over. Am I missing something since I can't find anything about this being done before on the 240Z? I have swapped the front for 300ZX rotors and 280ZX calipers and I used the 280ZX master cylinder and am still using the stock drums on the rear and every thing works. the wheels are 6 spoke 280ZX. The last hurdle is to fix a leaking stock rear wheel cylinder.
  24. Not sure who this is, but its one of the loaners from classiczcars.com http://www.project280z.com/spindle.html
  25. I Have a puller I can send out tomorrow, just PM me
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