Dave

I searched our site and did not find any information on radiator coolant filters. I found several other sites where the members are using the TEFBA coolant filters. Here is one http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Tefba%20Filter.html I ran across this interesting tip. After a new engine rebuild or a head/intake reassembly, find yourself an old nylon stocking. If you don't happen to have one in your closet, get one from your wife, girlfriend, granny, etc. Drape the stocking over the upper water neck of the radiator and install the radiator hose like you normally would. Cut off the excess nylon. After the initial run-in, with the radiator full of coolant of course, remove the upper hose after it cools down and remove the stocking. You will be amazed to see how much floating debris, bits of silicone, and other miscellaneous crud will be caught. Is there anyone here that has used a filter or is doing this?

It may be safer, but there are problems with bad connections that will give you amp read errors or no reading at all from the 75's ammeter. At least the 75's ammeter will not burn up like the one in the 240Z can.

The 75 280Z has a shunt located under the fusible link shelf and it is held on by phillips head screws, kinda looks like a voltage regulator with 4 wires going to it. The ammeter reads off of It. There are 2 10ga and 2 small wires that send a signal in millivolts to the ammeter. Inside the shunt enclosure are 2 small fuses. If the fuses are blown or the wires to the ammeter are corroded the ammeter will not work. This is a different setup than the 240Z's use that run the full load through the meter. I too find the ammeters a little scary, I changed the ammeter in my 240Z to a voltmeter from a 77 or 78 280Z. I just swapped the meters inside the gauge housing and connected the 2 10ga white wires together that went to the stock ammeter.

After not getting any real definitive yes or no answers to these devices I bought one and connected it the the wife's S10 JIMMY that was having a battery near death experience with a 4 year old battery. After just over a month in use I have found it appears to have brought the battery back. At first it was powered all the time but the desulfator charges up and spikes the battery making radio noise when the JIMMI is running. I wired it with a relay that opens up when the ignition is on so the desulfator is off when the JIMMI is running. The desulfator draws only a few milliamps and can run for months without drawing down the battery. Before I installed the desulfator the battery was at 12.83 volts and a 15 second 100 amp load test dropped the battery voltage below 9.4 volts. After a month in use the battery is at 12.89 volts but it only drops to 9.9 volts with a 15 second load test. Both tests were done in the morning after the JIMMI had been sitting all night. The big difference I noticed is in the mornings when its cold the JIMMI cranks a lot faster. I bought the one from this place http://wizbangplus.com/ and will get another one for my Z.

It is interesting from the different videos how the Z evolved from just a cutup Z to door jam braces to add strength to the subframe to a full roll cage.

That is Red Green in the video. Here is a how to convert your Z into a Hybrid back hoe http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5523245903188392852&q=red+green&total=38218&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0 All wheel Drive Z http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8350491190061548087&q=red+green&total=38218&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=6 Hybrid riding lawn mower http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8350491190061548087&q=red+green&total=38218&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=6 Hybrid exhaust system, this is cool http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4608874919200286443&q=red+green&total=38218&start=10&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=8

I this a generic solution? http://www.v8-240z.com/HybridZ/Power_Windows.wmv

Pop N Wood, Easier yet is to buy a light timer and set it to run your regular battery charger for 5 minuts a day.

When I did my battery control center I started with one from a RV and built it from there. The fuses set on a platform above the starter solenoid.The big relay is the battery disconnect and the small solenoid is a Ford type starter solenoid. On the left wall is the main breaker from the alternator output. In the right lower corner is a connection point for the power lead to the starter. The connection points on either side of the big relay are the battery lead and the main power to the cars electrical system. There are 2 small (gray) 30 amp breakers on the end plate that I can pull power from if I need to. When the battery disconnect relay is off the 8" lead to the battery is live. The line to the alternator with the breaker in it and and a 7 amp fused control circuit to the large relay are also live. Once the power is cut at the battery control center the engine does stop but the alternator out put still makes it to the battery. I have a inerta switch that also stops the battery power if there is a impact. A toggle switch is used to turn on/off the large battery disconnect relay or reset it if its shut off by the inertia switch. All this sets next to the battery so there are not any large hot battery cables running to conventional disconnect switches.

I have a bunch of the inertia switches used for fuel pump shut off. I set up my Z to use one but have yet to connect it. I actually have 2 setup, one for the pump and the other for the relay center so the pump is double covered. If your in need of a inertia switch PM me and I will fix you up. These switches use a steel ball suspended between 2 magnets with a red reset button. I have mine attached to the drivers kick panel so its easy to reset. When I was researching the use of relays the one thing I read is early failure is caused by contact arcing when there is a heavy load on them when they are disconnected. My main battery disconnect only cuts the power to the cars electrical system. I did not run the starter solenoid supply through it. I have a 8" 2/0 positive cable from the battery that feeds a buss in the battery center, from there the starter solenoid feeds the starter and the main disconnects feeds the car. My alternator output does go to the buss. When everything is off I have a live 7 amp fused line to the disconnect relay switches and a 100 amp breaker in the live line to the alternator. these are in the battery center also. I was going to do the relay and resistor for the for the alternator but figured if one or the other went out went out I could lose a alternator.

I started out doing the battery disconnect center like yours but changed to a Intellitec latching relay for the battery disconnect instead of the continuous duty relay. The reason being that the continuous duty relay will always draw .75 amp to keep the battery connected. A latching relay only draws power momentarily to connect/disconnect the battery. I have the battery disconnect center with fuses in the back of the Z like you are doing. In the disconnect center is also a Ford starter solenoid that supplies the starter power and starter solenoid power like I explained a couple posts back. I have a toggle switch mounted behind the rear licence plate that will disconnect the battery. All I do is remove the plate at the track to make it accessible. That is if I ever get there. I also bought a Odyssey PC680 to use, but with its being only a 16 amp hour battery it will go dead in short order if anything is left on. I have a electric fan and water pump that will continue to run after the engine is shut down if the cooling temp is over 190 degrees. I have since switched a Exide equivalent to the Optima battery.

If you look at the solenoid/relay pictured you will see a diode between the (+) and (-) coil connections. This is a fly back diode also can be called a clamping diode. There is a inductive spike when the coil voltage is removed that causes arcing at the switch that runs the solenoid/relay and spikes into the cars electrical system. This diode takes the spike to ground. The switch points don't arc with the diode and it protects sensitive electronics in the car. Some relays come with clamping diodes but I don't think the ones your using have them.

Remove that jumpered starter solenoid wire and use a Ford starter solenoid that has the 2 connections one being for the old point type ignitions. Use that (I) terminal that would normally bypass the ballast resistor in start position to trigger the solenoid on the starter. This way there is not a connection to let the starter run on as described above.

The one thing I am thinking is I have gone to a bunch of trouble to remove spikes and ripples from my electrical system and this just puts them back. It would be easy to connect this to a relay that will disconnect it when the ignition is on. If it will double the battery life as it says, it will pay for itself there.

Was doing some digging on causes of battery failure and what actually happens to the battery when its gone bad. I found a bunch of information about battery desulfation and how this can save a battery. These guys http://www.batterylifesaver.com sell a device that connects to the battery and runs with out a external power source. It appears to have a capacitor and other circuitry that once the capacitor is charged up it spikes the battery with a pulse that over time disolves the sulfation or will prevent it from forming on a new battery. I also found these guys http://www.wizbangplus.com that have one that is $35 shipped to your door and a few bucks less on eBay. This device can in its self can draw a battery down over time so the car has to be driven or have a float charger connected if it sets for a extended period of time. Any opinions?

Here is the information I found in the past on the water temp sender. These values are for the analog cluster not the digital. 23 C /73.4 F = 400 ohms 25 C/77 F = 386 - 365 ohms 30 C/86 F = 302 - 290 ohms 35 C/ 95 F = 238 - 228 ohms 40 C/104 F = 190 - 183 ohms 45 C/113 F = 153 - 149 ohms 50 C/122 F = 123 - 118 ohms 55 C /131 F = 98 - 95 ohms 60 C /140 F = 84.1 - 80.3 ohms 65 C/149 F = 69.0 - 67.2 ohms 70 C/158 F = 56.5 - 56.0 ohms Here is what I found on the gauge. Operating resistance range of the stock Z car temp gauge. Cold - it's from 18K to 33K Ohms. Hot - 250 - 400 Ohms Hoped this helped, and post your results.

I had the same problem with hogged out holes in my mustache bar. My fix was to use large diameter plate washers instead of the 2 small ones that are pictured and stock. The large plate washers provide a much larger holding surface and are almost as thick as the mustache bar.

I think we need to invite him to the site... The first flight could be ugly and probably was...

I bought a Norgren filter/seperator off eBay for about $9 total new with mounting bracket and attached it to the firewall. Its all aluminum with a sight glass and drain cock. Ran the PCV line to it and from the filter/seperator to the manifold, it works well.

The site was down a short time ago but has come back. We all have our fingers crossed and are praying all is well and stays well. Classic Zcars would be a good place to go to for information if we go down again.

Interesting in a strange sorta way http://youtube.com/watch?v=ruaOhrFnky0

I believe that part is called the tailight finisher, There are actually 3 pieces for the 240Z. Right, left and center where the license plate goes. I also have all the pieces if you need them, just PM me.

The worst part about shooting home invaders is having to get out of bed to grab the shotgun. Well, that's no longer a problem with the The Back-Up Gun Rack, which provides a convenient and easy-to-install bed-mounted solution! Now you can fill invaders with two barrels of buckshot without even having to sit up! A bed-mounted shotgun. What could go wrong? http://www.the-backup.com/buy/commercial.php The only possible way to improve this product would be to make it somehow hold beer.

Did you do the DC/DC SSR swap? I did the Honda cooling fan upgrade and burned up the fuse and fuse holder from the higher current draw of the Honda fan. I looked into the SSR's for the heater fan and the fuel pump and it looks like a better solution than the small automotive relay, and their silent. I lost a couple relays for the radiator fan before I switched to a 80 amp continuous duty that looks like a Ford starter solenoid except it has a metal case. I am looking for something better than the standard relay but not as big as the ones I used on the cooling fan. Are the SSR's rated as continuous duty? I did see some come attached to a heat sink.