Jump to content
HybridZ

LLave

Members
  • Posts

    761
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by LLave

  1. I would find another chassis. I just heard a rumor from a coworker there is a clean shell down the road for $800. They are out there. I would way rather do floors than that roof repair.
  2. Might try the colbolt bits from McMaster. They are a bit harder than the HSS bits but not as fragile as carbide. I have used them in harder material. I had a real problem with loosening drive shaft bolts. I ended up taking the nuts, placing a chisel across the face and giving it a solid whack. It peens over the edge and stopped my loosening problem. Safety wire is probably a better idea though. I may go ahead and do this when I assemble my CVs. Keep us posted on how it works out
  3. I should have looked at the pictures better. Typically these repairs are done with a butt weld, you do not over lap material. If you do, you need to bend an offset flange. Harbor freight has an air tool that punches holes on one side and offsets on the other. You are going to have a hard time blending a piece that is stacked like that. For you to grind it flat, you will have to grind all the way through your new material. I would rethink your approach. Cut your patch panel to fit the hole, to make it easier to weld and to fill the holes you drilled, add some material behind to make a flange. Like this:
  4. It is a super cool car. Might want to look into Fuel Safe discriminator valves, its a little float that blocks liquid but lets out air. Also, coiling the vent hose once can help too.
  5. Take your time. Get the fit really good. Leave a little gap, about the diameter of the wire you are using. Tack the part in, then slowly ticky-tacky all the way around. The 3M green corps 01991 discs are great for grinding down weld material. Loud and messy, but they remove material quickly and don't over heat the part. They are designed to finish grind mig welds. You got this.
  6. Bending the bar and adjustable links might get you there. Do pay attention to the final angle of the link though. If it is less than 90 degrees, it does change the effectiveness of the sway bar. I I am sure that I personally would not be able to detect a small change, but if the angle gets steep it could be significant. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Link-Force-Calculator.html
  7. That is amazing. What a tidy looking connector. When I first read 61 pin, I thought to myself, wow this might be overkill.. Nope. Just the right amount. So many wires these days.
  8. Drag cars do that some times. However, I would be worried about the liquid fuel running out of the vent line in the photo above. Yikes!
  9. I noticed that too. Perhaps the LCA mount is already pushed outboard a bit. Everything stacking up creates the difference.
  10. Google seems to work some of the time. I put my info in google, the first hit: www.searchpeoplefree.com Totally nailed it, previous address, current... a little scary actually.
  11. I found it helpful to go down to .023 wire, it helped me control the amount of filler in my mig welds on sheetmetal.
  12. Where did you have it dipped? I think its a big subjective as to how pitted requires replacement. I use a little awl, scribe, pokey bit, and if you can poke through the metal, it requires replacement. When replacing, I would take wide margins, or just do full pans. It is way more work to do multiple small patches than one big one. Looks like your car has already been stitch welded though, that would have to be considered, I imagine that makes replacing a floor more complicated. Looks great overall, keep us updated on your progress.
  13. LLave

    RB into subaru??

    Cut some things, bolt some things, weld a few things, wire, plumb and tune! No biggie!
  14. Looking good! Who did you use to source the wires and connectors?
  15. This situation can be a real pain. I have had pretty good luck taking a smaller fastener, grinding a bit of a point on it, then Tig welding it to the remainder of the broken fastener, then grab the new welded on part and twist out. The heat from the tig helps break it loose. Other than that. Stuck extractors suck big time. In car, without a really rigid drill (IE: milling machine), the drill bit hits the hard piece of extractor and wanders, making an even bigger mess. You may need to pull the head and take it to a pro.
  16. Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
  17. That looks great. Unique too. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.
  18. Probably true, nothing fits all that great. I was just fitting a new air dam, fussing with getting it centered and equal, pulling measurements to the front of the frame. Then I realized that the front portions are welded different from the factory. There is approx 3/16" discrepancy. This wasn't straight when it was brand new. Gave me some perspective.
  19. Ouch. Sorry to hear about that deal with Carbon Signal. What a shame. The YZ kit will look amazing. Darius' car was incredible with that kit. Great work withe the exhaust. There really is not much room back there. That is part of the reason I went with 2.5" I just couldn't figure out how to get it all to fit. Resonators up near the xpipe are my backup plan to adjust the sound. They can help with LS rasp, should you end up with any.
  20. I have heard that the knock off rocket bunny stuff typically does not fit well. Just what I have heard, no direct experience.
  21. Great work! It really is not easy. Especially with near zero access to the back side. That will make tons of room. You may have already stated this but, what flares are you running?
  22. You will be doing rust repairs. My suggestion is do whole floor pans and bad dog rails. I wish I had. Doing it spot by spot took way longer and the result is not as good.
×
×
  • Create New...