LLave

Yeah, that's it. What a great build. Thanks for sharing, it is really inspiring.

looks amazing! I just realized today, I follow you on Instagram.

That looks great. I did something similar recently with my 4 bolt BC's. Just not as nice looking. Hah.

I dig it. Saturated non-metallics will have that old school vibe. You could add a stand alone relay right next to the inertia switch without adding much wire. Circuited something like this sketch. The relay would be energized anytime the car is running and the inertia switch is closed, using a continuous duty relay, this is problem at all. If the inertial switch is tripped, it will break the relay. The PDM is still feeding power, but the relay has interrupted it. Most quality relays are continuous duty, so finding a 30A or 50A should be easy and inexpensive. Of course... I am an amateur and know just enough to get into trouble. Just a thought, the .02 cents, I am sure it will work either way.

I have the same feelings. Looks like a great product, if it works as they say I will be very pleased. I love that it is a small company. However their customer service has been down right terrible. Months and months have gone by, and now I see they are advertising on their web site that they can ship out new orders in two weeks. Hey what about the people who's money you already have? When do they get working product? Very frustrating. Back on topic. Man I dig those wheels! I think you nailed the vintage motorsport look. What color will the car be when complete? I was reading back up a bit. You may want to consider revising the inertia switch wiring. Not to be chicken little here, but if one is underrated to handle the switching capacity for your fuel pump, you probably should add a relay, let the inertia switch trigger the relay and interrupt the fuel pump power. The reason that parallel contacts to increase load capacity is not great practice is that, if one of the switches trips or fails, the other will take the full load and be overloaded immediately. If it is close to capacity, I wouldn't worry, but it if is double, I would consider revising.

Thanks for the info guys. I already have the AZC transverse link. It does look great. If I can't find a long nose cover I may explore the adaptation of the short.

I have considered this rout. How far off are the mustache bar bolts?

Not to hijack, but how about good Bay Area body shops? Anyone have positive experience locally?

Zero help to you, but shout out to a fellow Bay Area Datsun guy!

I haven't taken mine out in a while, but I don't think there are any bolts that a dash cap would cover. Pics? Download the Factory Service Manual and double check the bolt locations.

Looking for a R200 finned diff cover. I told myself I didn't need one... But I really want one.

I had the same thought. I think it might be.

This. Seriously. That is probably the most time and cost effective way to go. I want it!

This build is amazing. It is really something else. I commend you.

For sure. That is a good lesson worth repeating. Dry fit your parts before install. Screw those fasteners together finger tight, make sure it all fits, before you are on your back wresting a dangling engine. Glad you got it all worked out.

That is like... the opposite of hybridz.

I am running the C6 LS2 pan, because it was lower, but also it has quite a bit more baffling than the F-body pan. My car will be mostly street use. I get the sens I probably wont need one. It just seems easier it put in now rather than add later and I want my car to be as bullet proof as possible. At the same time, not create problems I don't have. Lord knows I have enough real problems.

Here is where to start: What transmission are you running? How is it geared? What rear gear ratio do you currently have? What size rear tires? Then use this handy calculator http://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php The simplest way to adjust cursing RPM is going to be rear gears. You will trade off acceleration, but you gears may already be too short. IDK. I believe factory ratios in R180 (and R200 as well) go as numerically low as 3.30ish. Here is a list: If you are able to pull of a motor swap, I am certain you can figure this out.

I am considering adding a oil cooler to my build. Looking for some data/feedback. Who runs a cooler? Who has an oil temp problem and should run one?

Do you need one? I have a used R200 mustache bar, with some brand new energy suspension bushings in it. I am not going to use it.

How seized? I would pull the spark plugs and spray a ton of PB blaster in there, maybe you can break it free. If it is mechanically locked up. I have no idea.... Get creative. Pull everything apart. Take the crank out with the converter on it.

If it is not structurally damaged and just a pin hole, JB weld is really not a bad idea. Clean the area well, scuff it up, JB weld. Done. If it is on the bottom, you may have to drain to keep oil out of the epoxy.

Get after it buddy!

I just saw a video clip of a guy who welded some supports to a rototiller and strapped his tank to it. It was brilliant. I filled mine with BBs and screws, duct taped it shut and shook it for a while. Worked pretty well.