Breeze77z

OMG...that kid's going to be in therapy for ever!

well...you can calculate cost on UPS's website. I did just to see (I picked random zip codes because i don't know the "from" and "to" zips) and i pulled a box weight and dimensions out of my butt, but it was kind of pricey though. try: http://wwwapps.ups.com/calTimeCost?loc=en_US and if that doesn't work right just go to http://www.ups.com and pick your country and then there is a link for calculate time and cost. good luck. Pat.

i'm not siding with UPS on your circumstances, but i understand their position. I work as a loader (the semi's) and we're technically only supposed to see boxes up to 150lbs. well, working there 3 years i've gotten a pretty good sense of weight, and some of the crap we get is no where near 150lbs. so they've instituted a new policy where anything that is oversized or overweight (70+) gets remeseaured or reweighed at the hub. I saw one box get weighed personally because i called my supervisor over and complained (after dealing with 2 other identical boxes) that there was no way the box in question weighed 95lbs like the label said. well he got a little portable scale and tossed the box on it and hey...170lbs! so i have a feeling UPS finally realized how much they were getting screwed by businesses that ship UPS and underestimate weight and size to pay less for shipping, or to ship through us at all in regard to boxes over 150lbs. now like i said, i'm not siding with them in your case, i don't get paid enough to do that lol. but i thought i'd toss out the opposing view to maybe do some enlightening, and make you feel better that you're not the only one they're rechecking. Patrick.

Steering effort will be no problem. I've driven a '94 Mustang with 275/40s, and a 4000lb Dakota with 275/55s, both power steering of course, and the effort standing still is easier than the manual steering with 215/60s rolling in my Z. Definitely post pics too, I'll bet that will look mean Patrick.

I've been tossing around the idea of putting one in my '77 280. I've been researching, and i have a little experience from my Dakota R/T daily driver, however, I can't find an indisputable source concerning the stock compression ratio. My 250hp/345lb-ft R/T apparently only needs a bigger cam (PN-4876348), headers, and an M1 intake to match the Magnum 380hp/410lb-ft crate motor, IF...the CR is in fact 9:1. Also, I'm not sure about what tranny to use. I don't like autos, but the NV3500 5-speed they put behind the 318 and new 4.7L isn't strong enough to support the 360's torque (or so says krcperformance.com), which I can believe seeing as how dodge does not offer it behind the 360. And i'm confused by the description for part number: 5249842 at http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/trans.html (4th down below flywheel pic). the part is a properly balanced flywheel for the magnum 360, but says it is for carb use only, why does that matter? thanks for any info. Patrick ps, sorry is this is a duplicate post, i tried once and it disappeared.

This might be old news, but here are a couple of links for parts: http://www.mopartsracing.com and http://www.krcperformance.com krc is almost entirely magnum/roller block engines, but they not only sell parts, they dyno different setups and have some pretty good info on what does what in terms of power. By no means a budget motor, but i especially like the Vortec Supercharged 408 stroker with 469HP and 725lb-ft of torque , try hookin the tires up with that in a Z haha. That's on their dyno page: http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/dyno.html Patrick.

thanks, i had just never seen ET/Speed indicating signs that close, but OMG that has to be an insanely fast car. Imagine wheely bar and full throttle the entire way Patrick

wtf, now i'm just confused re-rewatched it, and speed says 145 !

I can't say for sure because i don't even know where that is, but I think that is an 1/8th mile track. The ET/Speed board seem to close to the start line for that to be a 1/4 mile. That would definitely help explain a 9 second et with a crap start like that. Like i said, i don't know for sure.

this is kind of a tech question, but not a Z question, so i put it here. anyway...i'm looking at fiberglass hoods for my '98 Dakota R/T so i can have an actual cold air intake (functional hood scoop(s)), but they are all built like stock hoods with bracing and crap on the underside, therefore making them all cost 400-700 dollars. I don't want to spend the same amount for a hood that would buy me an entire Z front clip from JC Whitney. Most of the companies make "race glass" parts, that are lighter in weight, and don't have the factory mounts so are hood pinned on, and cost 150-250. They say not recommended for street, but does it really matter that much? i was thinking about putting the stock under hood heat mat on it too so it was less likely to warp from engine temp. any thoughts? Thanks Patrick..

haha, i read that, it's an article from a Sport Compact, or Turbo magazine. It's a spoof. the editors are poking fun at all the idiots that write them asking how to go fast, but already spent all their money on pointless (and ugly) aero kits and wheels and other crap that actually probably made their POS's slower. It's great when they pull out the sawsall and chop off everything that doesn't keep the wheels and engine and driver in place (roof etc.). Funny #$%& though. Pat.

traumatized (not really) girlfriend took these while i was at work. He hasn't done it before either, to either of our knowledge anyway. http://www.geocities.com/pmcguff/Crafty.html

None are sports cars, so why sit and argue and split hairs over low (to no) cubic inch, FWD...ECONOMY cars? It's all a bad fad that isn't going away soon enough, fueled by a generation of misinformed (read: Fast and Furious), Flash is fast bunch of pathological liars (i've seen way too many, my 260hp modded '96 Maxima does 11.8 ets @ 163 and weighs 3300lbs, sorry but not real feasible to even reach 160 as a top speed in that brick on wheels let alone to do it in the 1/4 mile). And sure, i'll race him in my stock truck and probably win every time, can't say for sure because i've yet find one with the balls to even try. Sorry, but i'm sick of being lied to period, and all this crap about how with just a cat-back, chip and intake, everybody's honda etc can run low 11s. Last test i saw said the group combined was lucky to break 16s stock, so 11s would require some major work. Sorry again, i live with a liar, my patience is near extinct

Yea, my family and friends gave me crap about buyin a "winter beater" '98 Dodge Dakota R/T and putting the Z up in storage. What they don't know is that although yea the truck has no rearend weight and 350lb-ft of torque, overall it is heavier and doesn't float nearly as much over snow/wet roads as the Z does. So i can drive the good ole truck through just about anything without any trouble at all because of 6 years of drivin the Z all year round. (my opinion though, a stick shift makes it a lot easier, no worrying about..."is it going to up/down shift around this turn and spin me"...so i miss that about the Z)

didn't see the vid clip yet (56k not so quick), but i've always been skeptical of dodge's claimed et for the SRT-4. Yea sure, light weight with decent HP and repectable torque, but you still have the low profile pizza cutter wide wheels/tires and front wheel drive that are a drag racer's downfall. Just my opinion, but i think dodge slapped on some wrinkle walled slicks to fluff the numbers a little.