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Erins.ZCar

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About Erins.ZCar

  • Rank
    Moving Up
  • Birthday 05/30/60

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  1. Fresh Paint Job 280z 2+2

    Love that color! Looks good keep up the good work!
  2. L28 Block Needed in KS, OK, AR

    I don't see anything on CL except for a Turbo ET Motor in Tulsa. Thanks anyways. If you a sepcific link, please PM me?
  3. L28 Block Needed in KS, OK, AR

    Thanks Dat260Z, you are about 1000 miles away from me. I'll keep you in mind if I don't find anything closer.
  4. L28 Block Needed in KS, OK, AR

    Dexter, Thanks I did see your ad. I would rather not put a turbo motor in a non-turbo car, too many variables since my daughter is 300 miles away from me with the car. Datsun Turbos are notorius for for needing alot of attention. Almost as bad as SU Carbs in my opinion. Appreciate the offer though! Have a Happy New Year!
  5. L28 Block Needed in KS, OK, AR

    My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
  6. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    I understand and appreciate your opinion here. The only point I am trying to make is that "for me", due to the combination of things I've listed previously, the vehicle is worth nothing to me. The VIN plate situation is only one of those reasons. I have been collecting, restoring, and selling custom vehicles for 30 years in my spare time. I have learned to walk away if it looks like a duck and smells like a skunk. I brought this situation to this forum for other opinions and because I could find no old threads similar. I can happily say that if anyone else runs into a similar situation your information will help them make the right decision for themselves. Thanks again for your info. I only quoted your earlier statement because you referred to the fact it should have some kind of plate if legally imported. Honestly, I thought you were joking about the Dymo Label. Sorry I misunderstood. Take care!
  7. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    I don't want to argue about this. The concern for me was as you stated above "if imported to legally comply" it should have some type of VIN plate or FMVSS body tag. The condition of the car, the possible title issues, and the questionable body modifications done did not warrant any kind of offer from me. It surely wasn't worth, in my opinion, the value of my 76 coupe nor was it worth the possible time and money I would have to spend if I encountered title issues were I to buy it. Thank you for your time and opinion, as well as everyone else's. This is the best Z community I have found!
  8. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    Just got from from seeing this inigma live! I feel so bad for the current owner. He was sold this car as some one of kind special vehicle and it is a cobbled up POS. No VIN plates anywhere, no holes in the cowl behind the battery or on the shock towers to indicate a plate was ever attached either place. There's no VIN plate on dash or even the FMVSS body tag to indicate this car was even legally imported. The rear hatch is just as I thought it was, a Panteta hatch with a whaletail spoiler very poorly glassed on to the back end. Both rear quarters are shot and need replaced. Doors skins are rusted thru in multiple places. The motor appears to be an 82 L28ET and has been pulled for at least 3 years. There is a 5 speed trans for it that I don't think came with the car or motor. The only two positives I saw was the fiberglass cowl hood and the original power remote fender mirrors. The hood is definitely professionally built of dense fiberglass matting using a mold of the original hood. Then they cut a rectangle in the center of the hood and mounted and blended a 4" raised cowl with vent pockets in front of the angular cuts into the hood for air flow. Not my particular taste, but very well done. I have never seen and can find no pictures of that cowl design on the internet at all. The drawback to the remote electric mirrors are they ABS plastic housings, cleaned, sanded, and repainted they would nice. I suggested that the owner consider parting everything out since it is already taken apart completely. He bought it on a Missouri bill of sale and never titled here in Arkansas. It was registered in MO last in 2008 which requires vehicle inspections as indicated by the window sticker, so I'm confused how it was titled without VIN plates. Oh well, it's his problem not mine! I suggested he register here and sell the parts, hopefully there will be an influx of RHD parts soon. Thanks again for all the advice!
  9. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    Thanks all! This VIN plate deal really concerns me. I'll look at it and take some better pictures and we'll see what happens!
  10. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    Current owner says it went from California to Missouri according the guy he bought it from and that it was SCCA raced in CA supposedly. I love my 4 speed coupe and hate the idea of trading it for a non-running project but if this is a rare car and not cobbled-up piece I don't want pass it up.
  11. 1979 Fairlady Z RHD with No VIN Plate?

    He needs a daily driver and wants to trade for my 76 280Z coupe. I value my coupe at $4K. The Fairlady has the motor pulled and not been on the road since 2008. The missing vin plates do concern me especially since he has no title.
  12. Looking at buying what appears to be a true RHD Fairlady Z. Weird thing is it has no VIN plate behind battery or on shock towers or body tag on door jams.The cowl has the VIN S130-008634 stamped onto it. It also has a bizarre cowl hood and what appears to be a Pantera Hatch with a Whitetail spoiler glassed in. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Problems uploading pics right now, will try to add later.
  13. 280Z Starts, Runs One Minute and Dies

    As usual you are 100% correct in the cause of the corrosion, Pharaoh! I felt I had rambled on long enough about the issues I had and forgot completely to describe my findings for the cause. During the paint job, we removed the cowl panel and found rust thru in several small areas. Repaired that rust but failed to inspect under the dash intensely enough. She gets a kick out of all the "old men" as she says who give her the thumbs up as she is driving! Her friends at school are definitely jealous!
  14. I was almost ready to deliver a 1976 280Z Restomod to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! We started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. The car would crank but not start. If the engine was cold, it would start, run one minute or less and then die and not restart for hours. At first check my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the plugs and checked again, dry as a bone no fuel in cylinders. Next, even though the fuel pressure measured correct before and after the fuel rail, we replaced the fuel pressure regulator just in case and still not the solution. Started intense troubleshooting with the EFI Bible and FSM. Replaced the MAS after cleaning the contacts and still nothing! Cranks just fine when cold and would start and run for a minute and then die and refuse to start until cold again. Checked the throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime, nothing! Still would start when cold most of the time but die after less than a minute. Double and triple checked the injectors listening to ensure the injectors continued to fire after the engine started and we weren't losing pulse, still no good. So what does the bible say after all these checks, replace the ECU! Luckily, I thought I already have a spare ECU for my 1977 FI 280Z. Guess what, doesn't work, wrong part number. Here's where ECU's get tricky I found out. The 1975-76 Auto Trans FI models use ECU A11-600, the 1977-78 Auto Trans FI models use A11-601. My 1976 280Z 4-Speed Coupe uses the A11-601 ECU! So off to Ebay to find an ECU to match A11-600 in my daughters car. Two weeks later it arrives and we plug it in and walla, nothing... It starts and runs less than a minute and dies and won't restart! Totally frustrated and confused we start the troubleshooting process again re-checking every pin on the ECU harness and we suddenly notice that Pin 1 is giving us varying voltages of .3 to 12.7 volts. At 12.7 volts the engines starts, runs less than a minute and dies, when we re-check the Pin 1 voltage and try to restart the engine we get .3 - .7 volts. Bingo! Finally we have a negative reading we can start tracing! So where does Pin 1 on the ECU connect to? The Ignition Input Circuit! We started tracing the wiring harness for the Ignition system around the engine compartment and back under the dashboard and find terminal corrosion on the connectors under the passenger side glove box. Cleaned the terminals and connectors and applied a generous dose a electolytic grease and instant start and run! Thank goodness for excellant mechanics and friends who spent 2 weeks with me crawling under the dashboard and hood testing and retesting component after component to find the issue and resolve it! I hope this might help someone else in the future. If your Pin 1 on the ECU measures anything less than 12 volts, you have an electircal problem not mechanical! You must have 12 volts on this pin for the car to start and run, if the votage drops after it starts and dies check the ignition circuit connections under the glovebox. Clean and grease those terminals because the corrosion heats up after ignition and interrupts the connection of power to your injectors. Good luck!
  15. Erins ZCar 1976 280Z 2+2 Restomod

    Finally.... Delivered the car to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! Would have delivered it a month ago except the weekend I was going to deliver it to her in Kansas several new problems arose. First door handle and lock mechanism broke on passenger side door and I had to replace both and then repaint with Black Chrome. As soon as we replaced those two items we started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. At first my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the plugs and checked again, dry as a bone no fuel in cylinders. Next, even though the fuel pressure measured correct before and after the fuel rail, we replaced the fuel pressure regulator just in case and still not the solution. Started intense troubleshooting with the EFI Bible and FSM. Replaced the MAS after cleaning the contacts and still nothing! Cranks just fine when cold and would start and run for a minute and then die and refuse to start until cold again. Checked the throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime, nothing! Still would start when cold most of the time but die after less than a minute. Double and triple checked the injectors listening to ensure the injectors continued to fire after the engine started and we weren't losing pulse, still no good. So what does the bible say after all these checks, replace the ECU! Luckily, I thought I already have a spare ECU for my 1977 FI 280Z. Guess what, doesn't work, wrong part number. Here's where ECU's get tricky I found out. The 1975-76 Auto Trans FI models use ECU A11-600, the 1977-78 Auto Trans FI models use A11-601. My 1976 280Z 4-Speed Coupe uses the A11-601 ECU! So off to Ebay to find an ECU to match A11-600 in my daughters car. Two weeks later it arrives and we plug it in and walla, nothing... It starts and runs less than a minute and dies and won't restart! Totally frustrated and confused we start the troubleshooting process again re-checking every pin on the ECU harness and we suddenly notice that Pin 1 is giving us varying voltages of .3 to 12.7 volts. At 12.7 volts the engines starts, runs less than a minute and dies, when we re-check the Pin 1 voltage and try to restart the engine we get .3 - .7 volts. Bingo! Finally we have a negative reading we can start tracing! So where does Pin 1 on the ECU connect to? The Ignition Input Circuit! We started tracing the wiring harness for the Ignition system around the engine compartment and back under the dashboard and find terminal corrosion on the connectors under the passenger side glove box. Cleaned the terminals and connectors and applied a generous dose a electolytic grease and instant start and run! Thank goodness for excellant mechanics and friends who spent 2 weeks with me crawling under the dashboard and hood testing and retesting component after component to find the issue and resolve it! Now onto the final pictures! I added the 350Z Circle Z Emblem to the lower valance of the Front Spoiler after Black Chroming I removed the original 280Z Fender Emblems, welded the holes, and placed the 350Z Fender Emblems in their place Took the 15x8 205x60x15 Wheels and tires off my 76 Coupe cuz they look so much cooler on her car! Replaced the side markers with clear lenses and amber LED bulbs just becuase I could and installed clear headlight covers! Replaced the B Pillar Vent Emblems with generic C-Type Vents because my daughter says it looks cool! Along with the 65 Mustang tail lights I inserted the original fender emblem to maintain some throwback memories! Also, I added LED multi-function brake, turn, and reverse lights into the rear skirt vent for added visibility. The license plate cover also has a third eye brake light as well license plate light. Finally, the customized interior with the Houndstooth cloth inserts! Beats sitting on scalding hot vinyl in the summer!
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