Jump to content
HybridZ

lowrider

Members
  • Content count

    371
  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

lowrider last won the day on September 3 2017

lowrider had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

11 Good

About lowrider

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/02/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Knoxville, TN
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Spirited driving, Guns, and such.

Recent Profile Visitors

5368 profile views
  1. Lowrider's 260z

    I thought I included a picture or two of the rear mounting point with the pivot. The pivot is made of 1/4" CRS that was laser cut at the same place I did my CoOp. I attached the mounts to the same location that the factory tow hooks attached to on the front frame rails. The front cables were made to "pre-load" the front of the splitter and slightly deflect the air dam to get a decent seal along the front edge. The picture above just has the front sat on boxes for mock up, hence the gaps.
  2. Lowrider's 260z

    I have been lurking alot more on the forums recently, and I've started to feel guilty about the lack of contribution on my end in the past several years. Life has gotten in the way, but my Z has slowly still been progressing. Since my last update, alot has happened both with me and the car. I graduated college in 2014 with a BS in mechanical engineering and started work as a manufacturing engineer. I got married in 2014 as well and we bought a house in 2015. Enough about me, the car has also progressed quite a bit in the passed couple of years, unfortunately I haven't documented everything well picture wise. The last update I had mentioned replacing the stock radiator with an aluminum cross flow radiator. I had to make all kinds of modifications to the generic eBay radiator to get it to fit the car. I cut off both the inlet and outlet of the radiator and had to weld a 90 degree section of tubing on both of them to keep from hitting my intercooler piping and the alternator. I also had to fabricate some brackets to hold it in the car. I ditched the twin 12" eBay fans in favor for a Derale 16217 2 speed 17" fan with the new radiator. You can kind-of see the radiator and fan in the engine bay picture below: I finally bit the bullet and did a CV-axle swap using 280zx Turbo cv axles. I had a friend of mine that was parting a zx turbo out and in exchange for helping him pull the motor, trans, and a few other various parts I got the differential, axles, and stub axle flanges. I had done some reading and read that the 280zx turbo stub axle spline was the same as the 240Z which would have made the axles a bolt in affair. However, one of the joys of owning a 260z is not knowing what component parts you have. I made the assumption that my 260, being an early 74' with 240z struts, would have the smaller 25 spline stub axles but I was wrong. This meant that the zxt stub axle flanges would not bolt up so I had to go back to the drawing board. I did some more research and a fair bit of measuring and decided to make an adapter that would bolt to the existing stub flange and convert to the zxt cv bolt pattern. A couple of hunks of CRS, some time in the lathe and the mill, and I had myself a set of cv axle adapters. The install was straight forward, and only required the modification of the sheet metal grease shield of the outer cv joint. The difference that the cv-axles made in the smoothness of power delivery is amazing. The car used to shake and rattle on acceleration when it had the half shafts installed, all of that went away after the cv-axles were installed. After the CV swap, things started slowing down as far as upgrades are concerned. I spent the majority of the time driving and enjoying the car. I had identified a few areas that I wanted to focus on but I had recently bought a house, so the attention kinda was shifted towards that. I had wanted to construct a support for my flexible xenon front air dam for a few years, so I went ahead and build a bar to reinforce the lower lip of the air dam. The while I'm at it bug hit during the project and I went ahead and constructed a front splitter for the car as well. I constructed the splitter from a scrap bit of .25" alumalite my uncle had brought into the shop from his job as an industrial sign maker. I designed the splitter to mount to the tow hook on the front frame rails of the car. The mount would allow the splitter to pivot in the case of it contacting the ground leaving steep driveways or contacting curbs when pulling to close into parking spots. Because it was pivoted and I wanted to allow movement upwards in case of contact, that meant I couldn't use the usual support rods that are seen everywhere. I chose to secure the front of the splitter with cable so that it could have to freedom of movement upwards but as soon as the high pressure air in front of the air dam would try and force it down, the cables would be in tension and not allow downward movement. I looped the support cables through the bumper mounts and attached both ends to u-shaped mounts on the leading edge of the splitter via ball detent pins for quick removal. Overall, the addition of the car makes the front feel more stable at higher speeds. I have yet to use my monomer to determine the pressure difference on the front of the air dam before and after the splitter addition, but I can say that it cost me 2 MPG with what I assume is drag created by the addition area for the high pressure region to act on. I have taken the car to a few different meets and shows below are a few pictures from those: Recently, I have been planning/building my brake upgrade. I currently have 4 piston Toyota front calipers with the stock drums in the rear. I've kind of taken it as a design exercise to fit a set of front and rear disk brakes to the car that have a few criteria: 1) The calipers and rotors are easily sourced at local auto parts stores. 2) Both front and rear brakes are vented to reduce thermal overload and cause brake fade. 3) Must fit under my 15" wheels. 4) Must retain ebrake function. I started with the idea of using Z32 front calipers paired with Honda Odyssey front rotors. I then did a little research and some calculation which let me to the idea of using late Z31 rear calipers and rotors for a closely matched bias. I then had to come up with some way to mount the calipers and rotors to the struts/spindles. I modeled both the front and rear struts and designed mounts for both the Z32 front calipers and the Z31 rear. This pretty much brings me up to date on the car. It is currently sitting in my car port awaiting for me to install the front and rear brakes. I had both the front and rear caliper mounts made, I purchased my rotors and calipers for the front and the rear as well as drilling the rotors to accept the respective 4-lug patterns. I have tested fitted the front brakes using a spare strut and luckily everything fits and clears the wheels, just barely.
  3. N42 Turbo Motor Build Questions

    I've been running a bone stock N42 bottom end coupled with a P90 and Holset HX35 at 18PSI for the last 4 years without any problems. Make sure you check the ring gaps / gap them on the large side to accommodate the extra thermal expansion of having a turbo feeding it.
  4. Fail-Bucket strikes again. I can't see any of those pictures.
  5. I have been running a NA-T conversion in my 260Z for the last 7 years. It has gone through several iterations and also several bottom ends (due to me being a noob at tuning). I started out with a stock 83 zx motor / efi and added a stock T3, locked the dizzy, and added a potentiometer inline with the head temp sensor to add some more fuel. It was crude but it worked for a while. I am currently making around the 350ish HP range with a Holset HX35 at 18PSI strapped to the side of a bone stock N42 Bottom end topped with a P90 head and megasquirt 2 orchestrating everything. This bottom end has lived for about 4 years unopened with nothing but the oil changed at regular intervals. To back what everyone else has said, these motors are tough. By far the biggest weakness in my experience are the pistons. If you plan on using the stock pistons, don't rev past 6500 or else it will pull the ringlands. Also, I've lost a couple of ringlands on the pistons due to the ring gap being too tight with the extra heat from the extra compression the turbo adds. If you do crack the motor open you may want to gap your rings a little wide than stock. Granted that failure happened at higher boost pressures and horsepower than you may be wanting to achieve. As turbogrill said, a wideband is a must for any turbo venture.
  6. Low compression!!!

    I've always been of the opinion that the health of an engine isn't determined by a certain value of compression. The more important thing is that the individual compression on all of the cylinders are within a certain percentage of each other. I typically say that if the difference between your highest and lowest cylinders is within10% The engine is healthy. This is what was taught to me and makes logical sense to me, so take this with a grain of salt.
  7. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    I love how relate able the videos you make are! Like everyone else has said, its something that one of us would be doing with our cars versus a professional shop. I have also started watching the home built house videos you have made. I absolutely love it! These are similar things that I am doing with my house/want to do in the future and it has given me some awesome ideas. Please keep it up!
  8. 280ZX "shakotan style"

    I like the direction that the car is headed. I really love the Shakotan/Boso style, but I'm not extreme enough to pull it off. It seems like you have a really nice base to start with as well, that makes all of the difference as far as being able to allocate funds to stylistic/performance mods instead of rust repair, body work, or general maintenance. I see you're in Morristown, I'm just a little ways south in Knoxville. If you need parts or a hand let me know. There is also a facebook group called "East TN Z Club" that you might be interested in joining if you aren't already a member.
  9. Time based access TPSdot and ms pulse width

    The TpsDot threshold is mainly set from the amount of noise that you have in your system. How I tuned my L28 is by turning the accel enrichment off and data logging the car driving steady state speed on a flat straight road. The data log will record the MapDot and the TpsDot. You want to set your threshold above the steady state TpsDot value so that your enrichment isn't being activated when cruising. Granted, I am using a blend of TpsDot and MapDot. I chose to go with both because of the lag of my turbo and boost onset when shifting gears. It was terrible with the larger exhaust housing I had on the turbo. (Disclaimer, that may not be the correct way of fixing the problem. I'm a novice tuner)
  10. That's insane... It's gotten to a point that I take the price of things one ebay with a grain of salt. I had a small lot of these diesel pumps that I happened upon a few years back at a local mom and pop auto, I wish I would have hoarded those few instead of re-selling them. After a quick search, this popped up : http://www.ebay.com/itm/AISIN-Water-Pump-BA010-17S27-/361779382253?epid=75011233&hash=item543bbb47ed:g:0QsAAOSw4CFY0ZX2&vxp=mtr Seems a bit more reasonable.
  11. 280Z Garage Sale

    PM sent.
  12. 1- XL short sleeve T-shirt, Asphalt Grey Zip code: 37849
  13. HY35

    I would suggest investing in a good wideband O2 if you don't already have one. They are an incredible tool when tuning and when diagnosing problems if they were to arise. With 300-350 horses your going to need to address your clutch, the stock clutch and pressure plate aren't going to cut it. You could either upgrade the clutch disk and pressure plate for the 225mm flywheel you have, or you can upgrade to a flywheel and clutch setup with more contact area. There are a few options of the latter around including the 240mm zxt / 2+2 flywheel and i believe someone makes a spacer to allow the use of an RB flywheel. The trans should live for a while (I got close to 5 years out of my 83 zx trans) but I would be looking for a beefier solution in the future. That's about it off of the top of my head, if I remember anything else I will be sure to post it.
  14. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    The motor is the leftovers of a warranty replacement in my dads old Silverado. From what I gather it had some issues with the crank angle sensor not picking up properly because the crank thrust was out of spec. I know that when I get to it, I will probably need main bearings. Currently the motor doesn't have an intake manifold or front accessories which really opens up possibilities as far as purchasing replacements that would work better with the chassis. I was curious about the truck intake because they are plentiful and can be had for cheaper than the ls1 or ls6 variants.That and it is rumored that they flow almost as well as the ls6 manifold. So, are you saying that the truck fuel rails have a fuel regulator at the rail versus integrated into the fuel pump? I will have to keep that in mind when I go parts shopping. I plan on fabricating my own mounts similar to yours, I can't stand paying money for something I am capable of doing with a little bit of time. Ultimately the plans for the car is to force feed the 4.8 with a T76 with Megasquirt orchestrating the whole show. If it makes 400-500 horses I will be tickled pink; I feel like that is a pretty attainable goal. There is no telling when I will have the chance to get to it though, between the house projects and keeping up my fleet of family cars I seldom have time to tinker. lol
  15. 480Z - cheap 2+2 build

    I like the quick progress! I have a 280Z that is waiting to have a 4.8 slapped in it on a budget. Did the truck manifold have any major issues fitting? I know most ditch it for the lower profile car manifold for hood clearance.
×