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Miles last won the day on September 6

Miles had the most liked content!

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About Miles

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    Miles ahead!

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. Picking out a clutch

    There are other weak points to consider in your build plan. The stub axles typically fail in two places, the tire mounting flange breaks off or the axle breaks where the threads meet the splines on the axle. See pictures. The flanges are easily warped which can cause problems with disk conversions. I had this problem when I did the Modern Motor Sports 240SX rear disk conversion. My rear brakes were dragging due to the warped flanges wobbling against the pads. Tried machining the flanges, but they were were too far out. When my Z was stock the driver's side stub axle broke while pulling away from a stop sign. Very loud pop when it let go. The solution to the above problems was the stainless steel stub axles now available from Modern Motor Sports. No more problems. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html
  2. Picking out a clutch

    Wilwood or Tilton 7/8 clutch MC works with the stock Camaro T5 slave cylinder. I have used both. I prefer the Wilwood MC as it is more compact. The Camaro slave cylinder uses a roll pin connection to the hydraulic line. Summit/Jegs etc sell a roll pin to AN adapter so you can connect stainless braided -3 AN hose to the clutch MC.
  3. Picking out a clutch

    Two projects: 1972 240Z SBC V8 with Camaro WC T5 transmission. Mild cam. 290 -300 HP range. Both cars daily drivers. My first 240Z V8 project (2001) I used a stock Carquest clutch kit. Pedal was smooth and light. No problem. For my second 240Z SBC V8 PROJECT (2009) I used a Zoom Kevlar clutch kit from Summit. P/N HP-1675-1A. Haven't had a problem. Flywheel resurfacing and Balancing: Used flywheels should be resurfaced and balanced. New flywheels should also have the balance checked . The balance on my new flywheel for the second build was off. Driveshaft: Select a quality driveshaft shop to cut and balance the drive shaft. One driveshaft shop I went to cut and welded the driveshaft off center causing vibration above 60 MPH. I pulled the driveshaft and took it to a quality driveshaft shop for rework. All is well.
  4. where to get OEM parts

  5. You do not have a proportioning valve problem. You have a MC push rod issue. The "distribution block" is called a brake switch and all it does is turn a light on if the front or rear brake circuit looses pressure. Leave it alone. You do not need an adjustable proportioning valve unless you will be racing and experimenting with brake pads. The brake set up you have is biased towards the front (70% F - 30% R). So reducing rear pressure will make your brakes perform worse. Your brakes are locking up because the push rod that goes into the MC is adjusted too far out. It should be adjust so that it just about touches the bottom of the depression on the end of the piston. The rod is preventing the piston from fully retracting which is causing the piston to cover the fluid return ports for the tanks. So each time you you step on the brakes you are filling the calipers, but the fluid can't flow back out. Do the following: Relieve the pressure by opening the MC bleeders. Keep the wrench in the car. You don't have to remove the MC. Just remove the two nuts and pull the MC away from the booster and push it aside. To adjust the push rod, hold the rod with needle nose pliers etc and use a small wrench to turn the adjustment nut inward a bit. NOTE: If you pull the push rod too far out you may drop the reaction disk into the bottom of the booster and your brakes will not work until you replace it. You will be sad. The push rod on my MC is about 13 to 15 mm out as measured from the tip of the adjuster to the face of the spacer block. Staying close to home drive the car and brake several times and drive around. Note: if the brakes are dragging (dragging = push rod too long) or if the pedal travel is too long (long pedal = push rod too short). If the brakes lock up, use the wrench you used on the MC bleeders and relieve the fluid pressure. Drive home and readjust the push rod one or two turns: Turn in (shorten) if brakes drag/lock up or Turn out (lengthen) if brake pedal is too long. Repeat until it is perfect. Write down the measurement of the rod each time you adjust it. Save the final measurement.
  6. S30 Hood Release Maintenance

    I have installed two new OEM hood release cables in two 240Zs and noticed that movement of the cable is "notchy" i.e., pulls smooth, then hangs, then smooth, then hangs etc. Noticed this before cable was installed in the car. The problem seems to be a mechanical defect in the metal tube next to the handle. I have been meaning to add a back-up cable for about 16 years. My hood just got stuck closed so I will be installing a backup release cable and an after market hood release cable.
  7. Keep the plugs in order and do a compression check.
  8. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    In the future, why not have donation drives twice a year.
  9. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Dan Tried to donate, but the donation page is problematic: The only payment choice is Paypal (don't use it - bad experience) Clicked on Paypal anyway which took me to a credit card input form Input information requested on credit card form, but it was rejected by the input form because my city and state were invalid. Re-input multiple times, but got the same "city not valid" message. PM me a payee name and address and I will be happy to send a check for $100 to help keep HybridZ going. In the future, why not have donation drives twice a year. Edit: successfully donated $100 on the donation page.
  10. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    There are a number of vendors who advertise/post here. Do they contribute? $100 on the way.
  11. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for you car. Check Hybridz or Google it.
  12. Hi! I have no idea what I’m doing…

    If you haven't worked on machines, or in an industrial setting, look up safety procedures such as "zero mechanical state" (all sources of energy brought to zero before working on a machine). Includes: electrical, pneumatic, hydraulic, gravity (things that can fall on you), mechanical, fuel, etc.
  13. Injectors are electrical-mechanical solenoids. Making noise is expected as each injector is energized.
  14. Hi! I have no idea what I’m doing…

    Leave it stock and renew/upgrade stock parts. I started with suspension (shocks, stiffer springs, poly bushings etc) and used the car as a daily driver/work car for eight years before doing a SBC swap. Every detail of the build was planned including an excel spread sheet listing parts with costs to complete the build. I purchased all of the parts I would need over several years. After completing the swap in 2009 I drove the car for five months to shake out mechanical bugs. Then, I took the car apart for paint and interior work. Elapsed time 2001 to 2009 = eight years. Peat Paraska took ten years. You don't need a lift, just basic shop/mechanic's tools.
  15. Hi! I have no idea what I’m doing…

    Welcome Suggestions: Just do a stock restoration for your first project to develop knowledge and mechanical skills. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Check Hybridz or Google it. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/