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Miles

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Posts posted by Miles

  1. If the SU carb has an air leak, it will create a lean condition for which no amount of tuning will correct.

     

    The problem with the SU carburetors is that the throttle shaft becomes worn and allows air to seep past the shaft and into the carb causing a lean condition.

     

    You can try contacting ZTherapy who specializes in  SU carbs and parts.  Also they sell a video called "Just SUs" it explains how to repair and tune the SU carb.

     

    Just SUs video covers:  4 hrs of advanced college level theory of operation, diagnostics, tuning, surgical Weber removing and disposal.  Covers all years of Japanese Hitachi "SU" and 1.6L-2.0 Volvo HS6 1 3/4" SU (HS4, HS2 same).  Our newest video, 4 years in the making.  Directly replaces the first 1.5 hrs of ZTV01. Heavily updates and corrects info from ZTV01.  Part one is inspecting and  installing new ZT carbs and "Tuning for Dummies".
    Part two is "Installing and Tuning a ZT Master Tuneup Kit for Dummies".  Balance of tape is answering common questions, racer tech and mods, airflow studies, horns, cold air box, etc. We address the Q+A sessions from the 2000 MSA and LSV shows-I worked hard to answer your questions on this video. If this does not answer every issue you ever had about the mighty SU, call me!  If you still don't get a satisfactory answer, demand your money back!!!  Ships free with new ZT carbs and the ZT MasterTuneUp kits.   Available in single play mode on two 2 hr SP tapes for $20 or on one single EP mode tape for  $15 (lower video quality). DVD available for $25

     

    https://www.ztherapy.com/

     

     

     

  2. 15 hours ago, SNKBT1 said:

    Miles, how did the Carbotech ax6 pads work out for you?  I track 2 times a year but mostly street drive. Thanks for any info.  

    The best performing pads that I have tried on my SBC 350 240z.  I have tried all of the  Porterfield, Hawk etc pads and  they suck in comparison.

     

    My brake setup: Carbotech Ax6 pads work really well with this setup.

     

    • Front:  1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup calipers for solid rotors. Direct bolt on.
    • Rear: 1989 240sx rear calipers
    • 1979 280zx 15/16 in. master cylinder
    • 1978 280z 9 inch booster.

     

    Notes about Ax6 pads:

    • Excellent cold bite which is great for a daily driver.
    • Dusty at first, but I don't care.  Stopping performance is what is important.
    • No sign of fading!!!
    • No noise

    Buy direct from Carbotech.  Carbotech staff is helpful and courteous.

  3. 3 hours ago, tube80z said:

    I added points to a few of you to get the new status you see.  There's a system in place that adds points for various things but I don't know if it always works.  It appears it was all reset at some point.  Maybe a software update lost it all.  Like Jon said it doesn't change your ability to post.  I'd like to change it so new users can't until they are validated to reduce spam but I haven't found that setting.  And I don't think I'd change things unless getting Dan's blessing that it made sense.

     

    Thanks for the fix and update.

  4. 21 minutes ago, NewZed said:

    Is it possible that you were trying to respond to an FAQ post?  The FAQ reply problem has never been resolved.  Your post count still shows.  

     

    I know that after I asked to have my subtitle changed from "Clandestine Moderator" ('cuase people were thinking I was a real moderator) that my new subtitle was Newbie.  Weren't you a real moderator for a while?  Maybe it's just the subtitle change.

     

    I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie.

     

    I could  not respond to any posts.

  5. I recommend to all Z car owners to buy this book available at Amazon:

     

    How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car            by Wick Humble

     

    It details how to disassemble, restore and re-assemble 240z cars. It contains step by step instructions. It has saved me hours and hours of research.

     

    Remove the black door lock plunger knob

    Remove the arm rest, door handle chrome cover under door handle and then the door panel.

    Remove three bolts holding the door mechanism to the door

    Remove the activating rod pivot screw

    Remove two bolts holding the door release handle and unhook the activating rod from the door handle

    DOOR MECHANISM REMOVAL.jpg

    REMOVE 3 SCREWS DOOR MECH.jpg

    DOOR HANDLE REMOVAL.jpg

  6. This worked for me when the nose of the hood wouldn't align with the headlight buckets:

     

    https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42496-hood-alignment/

     

    To lower the hood, you have to tilt the hood.

    Get the hood wide open, loosen the 2x 2 bolts between the hinges & the hood.

    Then push gently with your knee on the bottom side, where the emblem is, and pull towards you the top. Clamp the bolts.

    That will create a rotation motion of the hood that will lower the front while it will be closed. Try to close it gently since hood might still rub against the fenders.

    To center it, you have to play with top/bottom position with a translation, still with the same bolts. If it is too far on the left, you have to lower the right side & to rise left side.

    I know how it works, I still fight each time I want to put everything back together.

  7. Contact Dave Irwin.  He is the most knowledgeable man on the planet when it comes to Z car electrical systems/parts/upgrades

     

    On Hybridz Dave goes by  HLS30-08077           https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/1483-hls30-08077/content/page/7/?type=forums_topic_post

     

    On Classic Z Cars he goes by: Zs-ondabrain  https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/4156-zs-ondabrain/

     

    He has a business that builds electrical add-ons for Z cars:     https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/what-s-new/

     

     

     

  8. I am not surprised that your Wilwood 1 inch MC is leaking internally.

     

    I bought three in the past to replace my 79 280zx MC.  Two of the three leaked internally right out of the box as I was bench bleeding them and the other one had the bleeder screws mashed which made it impossible to bleed.

     

    Other have had problems as well.

     

    Zero quality control.

     

    Dave at Arizona Z Cars sells the 15/16 MC.

  9. 1972 240Z SBC 350

     

    My brake set up:

     

    • Front - Toyota calipers with solid stock rotors
    • Rear - 240SX calipers with 300zx solid rotors.
    • Booster - 280z 8.5in
    • Master Cylinder - 1979 280zx 15/16in
    • Carbotech AX6 compound

     

    I have experimented with all of the so called "performance street pads" available over the last 20 years. They all suck for street use. Every one of them lacked good cold bite which is what you want driving in traffic. Some of them were like using wood blocks for pads.

     

    About four years ago I replaced the front  and rear pads on my 240Z with Carbotech AX6 pads. They have excellent cold bite which get gets better as they heat up.  I have intentionally heated up the front brakes until smoke was rolling out of the fenders and there was no fade at all.

     

    They are expensive, but if you mention that you belong to HybridZ they will give you a 10% discount. You can  buy directly from the company:

     

    https://ctbrakes.com/

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