Sandy455

Alignment. For sure.

Cool! Make sure when you sign up on the Speedventure site that you note you are participating in the Nissan Challenge. See you there!

Corner 3 Motorsports Nissan Challenge will host an event thru Speedventures.com at Streets of Willow on 10/29. This is the second year of the series and interest continues to grow. If you have questions, feel free to contact me. Hope to see you there!

RS Speed Design in Glendale. Ask for Ares. (Were you going to use Sunrise Z in Glendale before Sev lost his lease?)

I've got that same one on my 240Z.

Let me start by saying that the stock brakes are more than enough to stop your 240Z in any street situation if you're running the stock L24 with SU's which makes around 117 HP to the rear wheels. I use my car for track and street in So Cal. My L24 has triple webers, lowered John Coffey suspension, coil-overs, camber plates, Toyota 4X4 front calipers up front (cost me $45 each at Pep Boys with a life time guarantee) and the Silvermine rear disc kit. My car has brakes for days and zero brake fade in 108 degree weather at Streets of Willow in June during 25 minute run sessions. I run 15" wheels, 225/50/15 on the track, 205/60/15 on the street. Just remember, the taller, wider and heavier your wheels are, the slower your car goes with that 117 HP. Have fun!

AMCO or other similar brand in black for my 1970 240Z. Contact me here or at sandy.isaac@gmail.com. Thanks.

Was just reading about this. Seems like a very cool upgrade for my L24. Just have to save up my $$$.

Yes. Also a good idea. But the vent base plate is maybe 1/16" thick and the mounting screws are built in so the top is smooth. Plus, I need the louvers as high up as possible because it's the cooler air rushing over the hood that sucks the hot air out from under the hood at speed. (Some law of physics I can't name.)

I'm running a 240Z L24 with a solid hood but having the head ported/polished/rebuilt to run at higher RPM's during So Cal track days which will mean even more heat under the hood so I purchased a pair of bitchin' Skillard.com louvered hood vents intended to replace the factory 280Z hood vents. I'm figuring I'll just base the placement on the left vent over the rear SU carb (and match the right side vent) when my body shop cuts the holes in the hood next week. But does anyone have the exact dimensions from the edges of the hood where the factory vent holes are set? Thanks.

Just bought a pair of vents from Skillard. Real beauties. But you have to buy a pair. (On a different note, I'm going to be cutting my 240Z hood to install them. What is the distance from the top edge of your hood to the top of the vent? And from the center line of the hood, how far are the vents spaced apart? Figuring the one vent must be over the rear SU carb. Thanks.)

Thanks.

I don't have the choke lever installed anymore.

I have them. Not sure if they'll actually prevent my nose from breaking against my steering wheel in a major accident. That being said, it was a more comfortable option to the original lap belt set-up which guaranteed to break my nose against the steering wheel. I'd also be interested in other options if you find them. Thanks.

Thanks. I have that DVD. I bought my SU's from ZTherapy. Doesn't really address my issue though.

Running my L24 with SU's in a '70 240Z for track and street. After driving the car for more than 30 minutes, the idle begins to decrease. Like if I start the drive with the idle set high, around 1100 rpm, after driving it or multiple run sessions on the track, the idle will lower towards 900 then lower. Then if I'm caught in stop 'n go traffic, the idle sometimes suddenly just drops out and the car will die. Thoughts? Thanks.

I run my 240Z on the street and track with 2 sets of belts installed for my fixed back Cobra Monaco seat. The 3-point retractable belt from Motorsport Auto works great for the street and easily tucks away for track events when I use my HANS-friendly Schroth 5-point system.

I have the Toyota 4x4 set up in front with Project Mu brake pads and Silvermine kit in back running under 15" wheels. The Silvermine clearance is super tight. about 1/8" clearance. I can't run wheel weights on my rear wheels. But I did it because I run my 70 240Z on the track in extreme heat conditions. Like 30 minute run sessions at Willow Springs in 100+ air temp. Or going from topped out at Auto Club Speedway into a 2nd gear braking zone for turn 3 into the infield. If you're running your car on the street, you don't need to upgrade the stock fronts or rears. The rear drums are perfect if you keep them tuned properly. Same for the fronts.

I've been tracking my 240Z at triple digit speeds for the last 3 years in the dry. Huge stress on the car. All good. A couple fishtails in the wet won't hurt it as Mr. Coffey said above...

Has anyone replaced a stock 240Z gas cap with an aviation-style fuel cap?

Autopower roll cages cost twice this. Beware...

Auto Club Speedway inside straight. Thanks to John Coffey and his (old) Beta Motorsports.

Go with the Silvermine rear kit. It isn't cheap but the stopping power is amazing and you won't have to bias away from your front set-up either.

I bought my calipers from Pep Boys.

I thought the only difference between the rotors is that one is 5 lug and the other is 4 but I may be wrong. I bought the vented Centric Front Rotors, part #CE121.42034 from Auto Parts Warehouse. They work great with Toyota S12W calipers with spacers I bought from Silvermine. I needed some shims and some tweaking of the SS brake lines to make it perfect. John Coffey set it up for me. It rocks.