Sandy455

I just had the Toyota 4x4 calipers installed with vented rotors up front and they fit fine under my 15" Rota RB wheels.

By the way, there's another option for the Toyota calipers and vented rotors for race days -- PERFORMANCE FRICTION. One of the top pad choices for Porsche racing worldwide. The pads are racing only due to the high operating temp.

I was running cooling ducts through my front air dam to my calipers when my Porterfields cracked at Auto Club Speedway but had no issues with the Project Mus in the same set-up. When you think about, a stock 240Z brake set-up is the ultimate heat test -- tiny brake pad over a solid rotor. I had the opportunity to compare pad performance at my two favorite tracks and found the Project Mu pads made the Porterfield pads look like crap. Now with my new larger caliper set-up and vented rotors, I look forward to outbraking other Z's on Porterfields. Cheers!

I'm running Project Mu HC+ with my new 240Z brake set-up -- Toyota calipers in front, Silvermine kit in back. Operating range for the pads is 0-1,400+ degrees F. During last Saturday's 90 degree day (130+ track temp) at Willow Springs raceway in 30 minute run sessions I had zero brake fade and zero noise. They're over double the cost of the Porterfields but I think 10 times better when it comes to stopping distance, consistency and wear. I ran the Porterfields last year with my stock front brakes and found them inconsistent, especially running the Auto Club Speedway roval and braking from 100+ to 30 at Turn 3. After the event, both sets were cracked. Then I changed to the Project Mu's and couldn't believe the difference. And now with vented rotors up front, I barely got them hot at Willow. Best of all, since the Project Mu's don't squeal like the Porterfields, I can drive them on the street without causing the neighborhood dogs to howl. Check 'em out. You won't ever want to run anything else again. And you'll forget all about that extra six pounds the first time you step on your bigger brakes IF you get the proper rear brake bias. Without that balance, it doesn't matter what pad you run up front.

Agreed. Last weekend at the Willow Springs big track, I ran remanufactured Toyota front calipers with my reman' Pep Boys master cylinder and new Ford Mustang calipers in the rear (the Silvermine kit) which all worked perfectly. But a new exhaust manifold gasket delaminated. It's all a gamble.

You have a source for new 15/16 Master Cylinders?

It took about a week for it to show up at the store. The label on the box says, "Fenco." http://www.partcat.com/fenco/index.php?refresh=1

It's part # M51837. But you don't need the part # because they can look it at the parts counter via the car model/year. I could only order it in the store, pre-paid.

I special ordered a remanufactured 15/16 without the plastic reservoirs through Pep Boys for under $50. If you give them your old core, you get a $10 refund. Now installed in my 240Z with Toyota 4X4 calipers up front, Silvermine rear kit, vented rotors all around. Works AWESOME!

Thanks for the info. I think I'll try to find one locally here in L.A.

Been running 15" rims on my stock 240Z brakes with my 14" spare just in case. Now upgrading my brakes so I'll only be able to run 15" or larger. Looking for a cheap 15" spare wheel that I can mount a real tire on. Ideas? Thanks.

I have two sets of 15x7 Rota RB's with a +4mm offset for my '70 240Z running a stock ride height. Silver with 225/50 Toyo RA1's for the track. Black with 205/60 Kumho Ecsta ASX for the street. The wheels are a terrific value from Racinglab.com up in Nor Cal.

My advice is to not concern yourself with weight distribution but instead get the car to a safe standard and on the track so you can feel what a tremendous track weapon a Z can be with the engine right where the engineers put it. Over the last two years, with John C's wrenching genius, we have slowly transformed a bone stock daily driver 1970 240Z into a very effective street/track machine. I spent last weekend up at Willow Springs Raceway running my Z with the Porsche Owners Club. I have adjustable Tokiko shocks, an OS Giken Limited Slip with a 4.11 final gear on a 280Z 5-speed, Toyo RA1 tires and stock brakes (for now) and stock ride height (for now). The engine dyno'd out at 119 HP but I was only about a second behind the street legal Boxsters. I've spent track time in a rear-engined (1969 Porsche 911E), a mid-engined (1975 Porsche 914 w/3.2) and now a front-engined (240Z) car. And while I loved how my 914 rotated, what I didn't like was the near zero warning before it broke loose. And when it did break loose, it was like someone spinning a spoon on a tabletop. Very difficult to save. Around and around you go. So before you move stuff, transplant stuff, why not try the car at 10/10's and enjoy the sturdy predictability of the weighting just the way it came out of the factory? You'll be surprised at the size of the smile on your face at the end of the day.

You have a PM. Thanks.

Nice to chat with you earlier but I'm going to keep looking for the R180 4.11. Thanks.

For my '70 240Z. Anyone know a 720 4X4 with a diff to sell? Thanks.

Is it still avail?

Thanks!

I have a 1970 240Z, running about 130HP to the rear wheels that I am slowly converting to a full-on track car. Been running the stock front brake set-up with these amazing Project Mu brake pads at tracks like Willow Springs and Auto Club Speedway. AMAZING stopping power with my Toyo RA1's, but the Project Mu's were a custom batch done for Upgrade Motoring and I bought the very last set in existence. I ran Porterfields before and they were total crap. Now, I'm thinking about upgrading the front brakes to the Toyota S12W set-up with vented rotors for extra cooling. But what are the best pads to run for track & street? Or just for track? Thanks.