[123 Ignition distributor?]

5 hours ago, wenzlern said:

Hi,

 

Unfortunately I can not recommend the 123Ignition. As nice as the Bluetooth tunability is, if something should go wrong you are on your own it seems (depending on the local distributor). Mine failed within 40km and I have been told straight out that it is user error, with something that is not even listed in their manual as to take special caution. Apparently I mounted the distributor cap not perfectly straight from the top, causing the carbon pin in the center to break. Running the ignition like this the apparently means that the 'current will find a way and discharges through the base, damaging the electronics'. To me their explanation does not make sense, and I have been unable to get a technical explanation why my supposed user error should destroy the electronics either by email or phone. This has now been the case with the German distributor (123ignition.de) and the direct contact at the headquarters (albertronic). The call ended with me being told that I am: "One of those customers that can not be satisfied, even if it runs perfectly you start worrying about wear on the rotor and the cap". Over the lifetime of the ignition this connection will break eventually, it is designed like this with the wear items cap & rotor. To my best knowledge I have to assume from what they say, that if your rotor or cap fails, the electronic gets busted as well. To be fair, this is not what I actually think. I am pretty sure the electronic survives this and I have a faulty unit from manufacturing, which they refuse to replace on warranty.

 

In any case, everyone can make up their own mind according to the emails below:

 

 

 

Answer:

 

 

After that mail I phoned the number in the signature and had a very fruitless call. I will now swallow the loss and leave it at that.

 

Best,

Nils

 

Wow.  Thank you for sharing this.  I will definitely steer clear of it.  Sorry for your loss.

[Factory 240z driver side mirror location?]

Looks right to me.  

 

Be careful on the passenger side tho. If you put it directly across from the drivers side mirror, you may not be able to see into it.

[Triple Weber 40 or 45 DCOE]

Personally, I'd go with the smaller 40s.  I have triple 40s on my L24 and they are awesome.  I have an upgraded electric fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure valve too. You'll need to customize the Webber linkage or you'll find the triples will get hung up the longer you drive the car, the higher your idle RPM will climb.  I'd also recommend ceramic coating your headers and the biggest possible heat shield under the triples.  Without the heat shield, fuel will boil right out of the carb closest to the fire wall.  Ask me how I know.

[73 240z: Gauges, clock, hitachi radio, rear view mirrors, inspection lid, fuel door, quarter glass]

 

2 hours ago, Floorless240z said:

Hi, yes it is

 

Excellent.

Is that the tach with the wiring in back?  And how much is that one?

Also, was tach with the wiring fully functioning when It was removed from the Z?

And lastly, do you have a closer pic of the inside of the gauge pod and plastic cover so I can see what kind of wear there is?

Thanks.

[73 240z: Gauges, clock, hitachi radio, rear view mirrors, inspection lid, fuel door, quarter glass]

Hello.  Is the tach still for sale?

[LED "Fog" lights?]

21 hours ago, D9inger said:

 

I put these on my Z, they're not LED yet but I've been looking for an LED replacement bulb that will fit. 

 

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/71-2100XT-Fog-XTreme-White-Plus-Halogen.aspx

 

 

Very nice.  Did you install an on/off dash switch to turn them on?  Or do they go on when your headlights go on?

[LED "Fog" lights?]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  One thing I didn't mention above is that due to the fact I track my car regularly, I have installed plastic headlight covers to help my aero and prevent flying debris from taking out my headlights at over 100 mph.  To that end, new high tech headlights would still need to beam through these scratched covers which also fog up a bit during the winter.  So I'm really only concentrating on adding fog lights  with protective plastic covers.

[LED "Fog" lights?]

14 hours ago, jhm said:

Good headlights are not cheap.  I've been looking at the Truck-lite LED units for a while.  They seem to be one of the most affordable options of high-quality lighting, IMHO.

I agree.  I'll check those out.  Thanks.

[LED "Fog" lights?]

Good option for sure.  Thanks.

[LED "Fog" lights?]

I want to add a pair of LED lights to the front of my 1970 240Z to help with night driving. I've removed the front bumper so I'd attach them to this custom mesh grill I fabricated and attached on top of the stock grill to protect my radiator and front oil cooler from debris. I track the car so in a perfect world, the lights would also have optional plastic covers avail.  I had this set-up with my 914 years ago and it worked great.  Looking for a pair that will throw the most light without drawing too much from my 60 amp alternator.  Suggestions?  Thanks!

[123 Ignition distributor?]

4 minutes ago, Leon said:

I've got one. Love it for the tuneability along with retaining old-school looks. My previous Z had Webers + Megajolt which is objectively a better system but I wanted to keep this one period-looking.

 

 

A few people have suggested the Megajolt as a lower cost alternative.  I like the look and overall convenience of the 123.  Please tell me what you see as the big pluses the Megajolt has over the 123 besides the lower cost.  Thanks!

[123 Ignition distributor?]

10 hours ago, Ereschkigal said:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127119-123ignition-timing-maps-for-40dcoes/

Thanks.  Very helpful.

[123 Ignition distributor?]

1 hour ago, NewZed said:

Quite a few people on classiczcars.com are using it.  Not to send a Hybridz member away but that's where the 123 action is.

 

Interesting.  Why is that?  People here don't like the system?  Seems like there'd be more people here running Webers and Mikunis who could use the additional tuning information the 123 system delivers. But thanks for the info.  I posted an inquiry on classiczcars.com too. 

[123 Ignition distributor?]

Just wondering if anyone's used the new 123igntion distributor on an L24?  I'm running triple Weber 40s with an E88 head.  Timing's always been a bit of an issue.  Seems like a digital device I could tune via blue tooth on an iPhone app would be a game-changer.  Thanks for your input.

[123 Ignition distributor?]

Just wondering if anyone's used the new 123igntion distributor on an L24?  I'm running triple Weber 40s with an E88 head.  Timing's always been a bit of an issue.  Seems like a digital device I could tune via blue tooth on an iPhone app would be a game-changer.  Thanks for your input.

['83 ZX 5 speed transmission]

I know this is a super old thread but is the transmission still available?

[240Z speedo is off]

I got a phone windshield mount and a GPS speedo app.

[Fuel Cell designed for spare tire area]

That installation seems like a great idea until you have to open that fuel tank and fill it.  

But any race organization requires you to fully box that fuel cell.

[L24: More Aggressive Cam Sugguestions]

I currently run those Webers on my L24 with a stock E88 head and a stock cam.  I put my car on the race track 10-12 event days a year.  I've found a big torque gain and a limited HP gain from the triple 40s because I haven't modified the head.  Yet.  That will happen in 2018.  You should DEFINITELY port and polish that head and install new springs to push your redline higher if you're going to install a more aggressive cam with those 40s.  I GUARANTEE you'll be sorry if you don't.   (And there's a So Cal alternative to Rebello at Top End Performance in North Hollywood.)

[240Z's at Streets of Willow]

31 minutes ago, rturbo 930 said:

Awesome! Any video from the event?

There is video being posted today from different drivers.  Not from us.  Go to the Corner 3 Nissan Challenge Facebook page.

[240Z's at Streets of Willow]

Both powered by L24 engines with Triple Weber 40s.  Took down more modern Nissans at the Nissan Challenge event yesterday. 

[Cold Air Intake Nearly Done]

Work nearly done.  The very last unused TVM air box on planet earth over triple Weber 40s on my L24.  

Is there a Datsun Z shop in So Cal better than RS Speed Design in Glendale?  I doubt it.

Who else will be at the Nissan Challenge event on Sunday at Streets of Willow?  

S 

[240z vs 280z]

I've used both on the front end of my car on race tracks in So Cal.  The BRE spoiler is great because it's rigid.  I think the urethane spoiler bends at 90+mph without a splitter underneath.  The other problem with the urethane spoiler is that you have to remove that thin piece of stock bodywork below the grill to mount it which makes the grill opening with the urethane spoiler even bigger which isn't good for the ride either.  That being said, I have a custom lowered suspension (RIP John Coffey) so my ride height is 4+"" lower than stock.

*One other thing -- I think the BRE spoiler works better than the urethane air dam because the air dam only blocks the air while the BRE spoiler set at a 45 degree angle from the body work creates downforce.  Bottom line is that the BRE spoiler was on the early Z cars that won EVERYTHING.  That's good enough for me.

[240z vs 280z]

16 minutes ago, Marks260z said:

Old Z's are notorious for getting light in the front end at speed. Too much air gets up under the hood at speed. The grill opening is way to big with no where for the wind to go. If frame rail strength worries you about the differences between the 240 and the 280 just add big dog fame rails. That is the biggest difference that I have noticed between all my Z's. As to the wind under the hood I have seen it mentioned a number of times in the forums. Do you have a front spoiler on your car now?

Great call!  I forgot the very first mod I put on my car was a BRE front spoiler.  Definitely stabilized the car at highway speeds.

[200hp on stock internals?]

You won't get anywhere near 200 hp to the rear wheels without rebuilding your bottom end on an L26. Certainly never happen running SU carbs with that rebuilt head. They won't deliver near the fuel and air you need especially if you change the compression ratio and get a racier cam.  Go to Triple Webers or Mikunis.  In fact, I'd buy the Webers/Mikunis first.  I run triple Weber 40s on my L24 with a basically stock head and bottom end.  Probably around 155 to the rear wheels which is more than enough to kick butt on the race track in my classification.  Definitely dyno your car before you begin.  You will be surprised at your baseline number.  When I started my L24 put 117 to the rear wheels.  And it was a helluva lot of fun.