RB26powered74zcar

this is also a graemlins test and and

Thanks for the complements guyz. These are 17X7 Raptor wheels with a 40mm offset. I have 1 3/4" (total) two peice spacers which as I said, put the wheels in the stock location. When I first put them on, I had 215/40 17s on them and I kinda like the way the tire size looked compared to the 235/40s. The 215's were even with the rim edge. The 235's kind of baloon out from the rims, kinda like there almost to big for a 7" rim? I don't know, maybe it'll grow on me after a while. I seem to be the only one that don't like the bigger tire look...

Ya know, I'm not sure one wouldn't if reg type wheels were used. These are front wheel drive wheels with five lug billet spacers. Although I found this set up puts everything back in the same place as stock, the offset is something like 35mm if I remember right.. joel

One more....

Sorry it took so long....if I only had the smarts to post more than one pic at a time....grr

Sounds good to me. I can't say that I'd buy a bunch of parts, but combined with others, I think you would do a good bit of selling to us. Keep us up on it... thanks joel

I just had my new 235/40/17 Bridgestone SO3s installed today and I have to say they are the best grippn street tire I've ever had. After breaking them in for a couple hours of driving, it started to rain. Boy that's where they really shine. With my old Summitommos, if it was wet out, I could really get hurt fast when my turbo came on. Not any longer. They are very hard to break traction on wet ground, and same goes when dry. Love em'

Update: I guess I put out this post to fast... I just learned that the bolt pattern on the wheel side is a little differnt, so the end peices would have to be swaped out with the ZXT ones for them to work. Still, to have the binding issue solved with shorter shafts, ( with some mods ) is good to learn. I would still like to hear from someone who has used these please. thanks joel

I seen a add for a pair of 90 M30 CV shafts for sale and the seller stated that they are the same as 81-83 Turbo CVs except a little shorter.He said this addressed the binding issue. Has anyone heard or tried this. It sounds real good to me if true, as I found a pair online at a forien auto locator for $90.00 shipped to my door.

I would like to hear you guys talk me into buying either / or for my early 260 L6 turbo with 17" wheels. It will be street driven only with an occational spankin given to who ever might challange it

Ya know, I'd sure like to hear from someone also that knows what's the cause of this. Mine is exactly like what your describing your to be like. I put a long strait edge against the outer rim and couldn't belive how much the pass side wheel was pointing in at the front of the wheel. Like you, my driver side was in but not as much. I thought maybe me having so much tourqe at the rear wheels, that maybe it some how tweeked things that way, but their has to be another cause???? Any other ideas anyone?? Thanks joel

I have no idea where that pic in my last post came from. I don't even know who that is?? weird! Anyhow, I will try and post the pic of the CV adaptors I had made... hope it post my pic this time...

I thought I would save a buck or two and have my set made, well it ended up costing pretty close to what MMsport charges. It's up to U, if you know a good machine shop and someone that works there, go for it... I did have a problem with the emergency brake cables chewing up the boots on them, been there, done that, kinda thing...damm..

Thats fairly close, I measured mine against a regular stroke before use and came out 2lbs differnce. Although I'm using the Findanza (spelling?) Alum Flywheel, I still wish I'd have had a few lbs taken off just for shits and giggles. My motor dosen't seem to mind the extra arm weight though, so I'm not complaining, just wishing. Again, I think we all know that when it comes down to it, a properly sized turbo/ wastegate set up is the key to lag... .02 joel

Myself also would be very intrested in a nice aftermarket harmonic ballancer, as I've already gone thru 4 oem ones due to cracks at the key way. Like TimZ, I would like to continue using my a/c, with the need for a double groove. Seems that before I went to the stroker crank, I never had that problem. Also I can say that having to cut so much material off the back side of the dampner for the TEC2 trigger wheel install, it dosen't stand a chance of lasting very long. Mine has also spun the outer groove peice off it's rubber absorber, rendering the timing marks useless. So... if anyone comes up with a hit on a better replacement, I'm all ears... thanks joel

Hey Ron, without me speaking to them yet, I'm still kinda in the dark on what peices you actually get with the Pro. kit for $739. Does the EGO sensor (most importantly) come with it for that price? Thanks joel

THANKS BLKMGK. That is very good info. I will give it a good going over... joel

Hold Up. There was supose to be this awsome looking picture with the last post.hehaw Let's try this one more time, if it don't show, you'll have to thrust me... Joel

This is only a T-61 but combined with stand alone, proper fuel flow, air flow, and LOTS of proper tuning, I hope to be in the same league with TimZ and James soon. James, you ready for me to come back out there for another tuning session? hehe I hope I did this pic stuff right... Joel

Well, going back to basics solved the problem. I didn't think the fan clutch would be no good after a short few thousand miles. I guess aprox 400 - 4-- turbo'd rwhp is heck on a simple fan clutch..... Anyway, things are under control with the cooling situation. Thanks for the help.

I have a Motorsport Auto 4 row rad. in like new cond. and its not keeping my water temp below 195-212, sometimes as much as 215 with air cond on. Would changing out to an ALUM rad. solve this issue, considering of course everythings in good working cond. I want to not have to worry about overheating ever, even at idle with air on in 100 deg. weather. What would be the best fix for this problem? Thankz

I spoke with a guy named Fred @ FJO and he told me that I could use the TPS voltage input spot in the Tec2, to datalog with the Tec2 and FJO WB unit, then compare the voltage #s to the sensors calib. chart? Since we don't have a 0-5V input in the Tec2, does this sound like it's feesable?? I don't know, it sounds kinda complicated for my simple mind...hehaw.. Wish I had the AEM setup??? arrgg..

Did I read the other guys response right, that it's the FYI unit being resold? I'm still debating the FJO purchase, it seems to be the better one... thankz joel

This all sounds great, and what I'm looking for. RICK, have you been able to come up with those pics and or graphs yet?, I'd love to check them out.Also, how about lining me up with where you bought your set up..... THANKS ALL Joel

Can anyone line me up on a good WB to help me out with tunning my Tec2 ( BLKMGK ) what do you use ? Thanks J. Soileau