surpip

hopefully you are doing well after the hurricane? mine should be out of paint soon I would love to come down and go out to a meet or something!

Yes, thay are all compatable i have an extra one from my 78' no lock though, just the switch

I would recommend a solid roller as opposed to the flat tappet easier break in and you don’t have to worry about high zinc oil. Plus you can get a more aggressive cam profile but no matter what you do don’t cheap out on parts, save up to get the stuff you want not what you can afford at the time.

It would be a waste to destroke that 350 with a 327 crank, IMO I would go for a 383 you will love the low end Tq and even on a budget still get them to rev to 6500 without much effort. I wouldn’t go any less than the 350. Bore it .030 get a decent piston (JE, SRP) good rod and a lightweight crank and as long as your cam and vavetrain can handle it you’ll be turning up to 8000. As far as heads go it really depends on what you decide with your bottom end.

The door will be fine to use, mine has been broken for years. As for fixing it I would find a new hinge off ebay or possibly in the classifieds.

Has anyone stuck one of these in before?

Has anyone had any luck with using stock components ie, evaporator expansion valve, with a Sandon compressor? I’m debating on where to go with my AC, whether or not I just need to buy a vintage air unit. I have the stock condenser as well

When there are more parts of your interior inside your house than inside the car.

Don’t forget to do a taste test on the battery too, should have a spicy/extreme burning taste to it. (Please don’t really do this or put any fluids on your tongue if you don’t have experience with it your just going to end up with a nasty taste in your mouth an still have no clue what the fluid was.)

You probably have rust in your fuel filer take it off an tap it on the ground and see if anything comes out, if anything at all falls out replace it. You might have to do it several times before all the rust clears out of the tank.

Could be your switch as well, you can wire a light in line with a + wire off the switch and see if it goes out driving down the road. Could be the module as well though, sometimes putting fresh dielectric grease on the mount surface will bring them back to life for a bit.

I did a relocation in my S30 I have 0 gauge wire running up to the starter post and 0 for a ground wire connected to a bare metal rear bumper mount. I agree with previous posts, I think it’s a ground issue. If you wire brush to bare metal your Batt ground and add an additional block to frame ground strap you should be fine, make sure to spray it with that red stuff that comes in a yellow can (batt terminal protector). As for the spark, if the ignition is on and the motor cranks just a little bit you should be getting a spark. In the on and start pos the coil and P/U are getting power and should light off if the motor is cranked.

I see a lot of sharp edges on that head, might not hurt to throw in some old valves an do some polishing work with the dremel...

You might have some luck if you buy the shorty spark plugs form accell.

When you can take your earwax out with a magnet (mostly slag)