260DET

How cool, the US reaching out to Poland. As for the questions, either transplant a S chassis suspension into the 280ZX or else race spec what you have or look at using a Z31 rear end. As for the transplant the problem is with the rear S cradle, getting it high enough for a PROPER RACE CAR is a big job involving severe fabrication.

The only fluid that ended up in my catch can was a mix of something like water and a smelly light fluid mix, just a bit though over a period of time. So properly and adequately plumbed they do work. But you have got me thinking about vacuuming the sump now, using a electric pump. Wonder if that would reduce oil aeration in the crank case which I understand is a problem but first thought is it would have to pick up from the sump and not the heads. As really any ideal vent system should.

No NASCAR style up close and personal with the steering wheel then.

A catch can with vacuum is obviously best, a vented catch can with adequate hose sizes is next best though. A properly set up catch can is really just an old school extension of how engines used to be before the anti pollution requirements complicated things and introduced considerations irrelevant for a race engine where polly lutions gives no f***k. Mine has same diameter hoses from all three available vents going to a distributor block from which runs I'd guess a -12 size hose (it's all out in the shed and I'm too comfortable to move) to the large vented catch can. It all works perfectly in a world where not everything does.

Have no specific idea but if a pro recommends it then why not but I wouldn't spill it on the dash, upholstery etc just to make sure. Report back.

You want to do the exact opposite to this taller driver who had to get an extension to keep the wheel close enough with the pedals as far away as practical. For mine it was all about getting the seat and driver back for better weight distribution.

I'm sure that the OP would appreciate comments like yours to be accompanied by a visual representation illustrating your point.

Some useful info there Chickenman, will look for alternative valve covers for the LS3 but exactly why should you always run a PCV valve on a competition engine? For one the air/fuel ratio is crucial, introducing pollutants to the mixture is crazy, it can only reduce performance or lead to engine damage with no advantage. The whole idea is to allow the engine to breathe and so relieve internal pressure, that pressure will always take the path of least resistance which should be to vent it into a remote can, by the time it gets there it's cooled down and the suspended 'oil' will precipicate (sp?) out and accumulate in the can. Last time mine was drained there was no oil as such, there was mixture of water and what looked to be a light weight fluid derived from petroleum, stuff that you would not want in your engine believe me. My engine runs as clean as, no doubt the Accusump set to open at 45 PSI has helped keep it in good nick, may this situation continue.

Yes, not the ultimate historic race Z but sure to bring more than I'd care to pay, high pose value in the pits though.

My LS3 has three vent hoses from the factory outlets into a large well vented catch can, no PCV valve. I'm certain enough to believe that these engines accumulate oil in the heads, higher volume oil pumps only make this worse. Seeing that I don't have any problems this aspect has not been a priority but with the RB engines a oil scavenge pump under the valve cover and switched by the ECU worked well and made a significant difference to oil pressure data readings.

NVH is Noise Vibration Harshness. It's all relative though, depends if we are talking race car or street car.

Link don't work for me but Newman raced several Z cars.

Hard use in hot weather or racing, should not need one otherwise.

No idea but sounds like something interesting is coming up.

Not a phone video, I am disappoint.