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duragg

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Everything posted by duragg

  1. Reached harness vendor. +12v input and ground to enable operation. +12v input to starter wire engages starter. Fuel Pump wire is a pull to ground output by the ECU only for engaging the ground leg of a fuel pump relay. ECU needs the oil temp input from stock harness but NOT the oil pressure so I can pick temp from somewhere else and use stock port for pressure.
  2. Yes stock ECU but it's a reworked harness with deletion of NATS & BCM & IPDM and uses OSIRIS and addition of the Cruise Control buttons so I can switch tunes. It has an OBD but I think I will only use that for building tunes. For NASA ST3 classing I only need about 250hp so we will substantially detune by throttle limit.
  3. Sounds like we are in a similar spot. I am doing a 35HR swap and just posted some pics this morning. I am shit-canning all those vacuum and extra water lines. Capping off for now, but I will build a spare engine and weld shut what I don't need. I think my harness may bave been done by same people. 4 wires with tape on them? I've done a lot of aircraft wiring before and down the road I will probably rebuild a spare harness also using this as a template. Did Mack send you spacers for the mounts? I have one on each side now.
  4. Pretty deep into my VQ35HR swap into my 240Z track car. 1973 240Z, race only, VQ35HR with trimmed harness and Orisis already installed, so I just have the engine computer, FBW pedal and no other boxes. Using the McKinney mounts. Some questions / comments: I've trimmed the front cross member and original mount pedestals. I am using spacers provided by McKinney also. I have the motor about as far forward as I can get it to leave plenty of room at the firewall. There is really only about 1/2" forward or back it could possibly go? The spacers effectively move the motor mounts in and out from the engine and thereby tend to raise / lower the engine. I have one spacer on each side and only about 3/8' clearance from alternator to frame rail and 1/4" clearance from the steering rack u-joint to the lower pan. The steering shaft just touches the mount so I will trim that mount a bit. Guess that's about where it will end up? I have stand-alone gauges for oil and water temp and pressure, guessing I will need to add additional sensors to the motor and just let the stock sensors feed data to the ECU which I suppose it will want regardless? Answered below. Turbo-Toys supplied the trimmed harness from a vendor in Florida and it has 4 exposed wires: +12v, Ground, Fuel Pump and Starter. I guess I need to figure out what the "Starter" and "Fuel Pump" wires do? One is trigger to starter and the fuel pump is output for the pump? or a signal to the pump relay? Answered below I'll try to get some pics up today. Tj
  5. I can't remember which booster but it only goes in one way, it's not the small early Z one.
  6. I wasn't happy with the 1" Wilwood Master. Pedal still had too much travel. I installed the Strange B3359TA 1.125" master and now the pedal is perfect. S12W with DTC60 pads front / early style 280zx rear caliper with DTC70 pads. Good ducting and good fluid and I can push pavement for days without fade. Love this new setup.
  7. Got down to a 1:43 flat at Laguna after 3 track sessions. Still trying to learn the track. Car was getting warm so I sat out the Sunday session. Alas... I'm just not making my HP goals with the L28 and want the ability to tune for NASA ST2 so may sell all my L28 collection and start a VQ35HR collection lol
  8. HELP. Racing Laguna with a cracked Thermostat Housing on my L28 Anybody nearby with one? Tom cell 602-628-2701
  9. Let's try this again. Leaving for NASA West Coast Nationals at Laguna Seca on about an hour. Day and night project. One of the bigger projects I've done.
  10. Run Cool Louvees on a new Seibon CF hood (19lbs)
  11. Mine locks while cranking like that sometimes. You have a stock flywheel? I have an aftermarket Aluminim flywheel and I don't think the teeth are beveled like stock and they jam occasionally. May try to loosen starter and reposition it just slightly.
  12. ^ yes that idea of adding a second nut came to me in the middle of the night as well and I will probably do that. I have a pretty heavy clutch too, but I have never noticed it as being a fatigue item in a race. About to find out I guess. Next solution would be to take my spare clutch pedal and move the hole up maybe .25" to .500" to improve feel?
  13. Yes the fingers were preloaded but its a pretty heavy duty clutch and I don't make all that much power on a NA 3.0L only operating at high RPM and it had Zero slippage (its sitting on the floor for other reasons as we speak). As for my other "mods" success vs just more clutch travel... I prefer to think I alone saved the earth from crunching shifts so nanny-nanny I can't hear you. I have the new 7/8 Wilwood master installed but I have to use the longer Wilwood rod and cut it down and find a new clevis and all that seems to take days instead of minutes. As mentioned previously if it is too much fluid and the slave falls out I will just have to find a way to limit travel. I also think its going to be a pretty stiff pedal push, but during a race that isn't something one notices. TJ
  14. Resurrecting:... I'm rebuilding my rack with new "Delrin" bushings from TTT. This is ok to delete? I suppose It isn't doing any harm but it does add that few extra grams of weight I am looking to delete...
  15. Hehe... I found if I heavily preload my T/O bearing I get more disengagement of the clutch and silent shifting even in "combat" at 8000 rpm. Since I tend to blow my car up a lot I just figured I'd replace the bearing frequently (but it seems unfazed so far). I just purchased a Wilwood 7/8 (Wil-260-3376) which should give enough throw power and adjustability but haven't installed yet as car just got re-repainted. Hopefully it doesn't shoot the slave out the back of the garage lol http://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/clutch-master-swap-upgrade-31422/ Further: I ordered a Strange Engneering 1.125 brake master because the Wilwood 1" I was using still had too much pedal travel for my taste. I will try to remember to post an update.
  16. Finally get to rebuild my steering rack too. Weld cross member?
  17. Update: all fire systems did in fact work correctly but the fire was just too well developed being fed by the melting brake reservoirs. But the foam and Halon certainly slowed it down until the big bottle of ABC showed up. I hate that stuff but gee it really works. Truth is I was ready to refresh the motor and paint the front clip so this is all good stuff.
  18. The engine cuts out a little right as the video starts. There were no black flags although people saw the fire including my buddy on my ass in his M3. Then the motor cut out more and I saw flames. ~sigh~
  19. Helmet blower hose was the problem. In the confusion I started going for my HANS. 3 fire systems: 5 lb Halon did not seem to slow the fire at all (first bottle I pulled on right) 5 lb Aqueous Foam failed to trigger properly (I pulled on far left by door). Need to determine why. 1.3lb handheld Halon was also ineffective. But by this time I think we had brake fluid involved and damage was done.
  20. I don't know what started. Appears to me to be low, left and aft. Area of header collector. Gonna try to determine that prior to moving on. Everyone wants to blame fuel and carbs but I am not so sure. Brake reservoirs went at some point also Feeding fire. Started cutting out half-lap prior. https://youtu.be/JwXYZ2hMwIc
  21. I had to take my driveshaft to a shop with 10,000 RPM capability. I had it balanced twice at other places. The one with a 10k RPM machine said it was WAY off... And problem was solved.
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