duragg

Having BIG clutch throw is a big help in high RPM shifting. I have my throwout collar pretty heavily preloaded now and I get zero crunches. I also rebuilt the tranny again and maxed out the springs under the syncro keys. Who knows what fixed what. Wish I could find a much bigger Clutch Master Cylinder to give more throw to the slave. Might see about adapting something else.

Tranny rebuilt again. Splitter done. Car loaded IN trailer. To Chuckwalla with NASA this weekend. Ps: 275 R7s

My 1" Wilwood seems to have low pedal. I think I need to revisit my booster pushrod. Running race pads and fresh fluid but with the booster the pedal is just lower than I want it. Guess I would need to max out all the adjustments to get the most upright pedal I can?

I went by some guidance here on the forum and set the Compression to +3 clicks from softest to start. Later I increased the rear compression to +6 on the back and then reduced to +5 clicks from softest in the back and left the fronts at +3 clicks. Rebound I started with +1/2 turn from softest and increased to 1 full turn all around and later reduced the fronts back to 1/2. No science to my adjustments. Just know it was NIGHT and DAY different from Illuminas.

The 1" bar seems fine. I had a tiny one on before and I think a 19mm rear which I might delete one day. I have 600lb springs front and 550s rear and to me its still not enough. But there is this "concensus" here that I am already WAY too heavy on springs. I like a really firm feel. There are some of the quick transitions like the quick turns at the end of the straight on the video where I feel like I am waiting *forever* for the weight to transfer and set. If I flicked it like I wanted to the back end won't go along with the program. I took several seconds off my personal best though so going in the right direction. I might just go up another 30% on springs and see what that is like. With the Tokicos I couldn't reliably cross burms without nearly rolling the car. The Konis man... just glide over and doesn't upset the car at all. Splitter is next.

Tranny is more fudeck than ever lol. Starting over. Ran with the "Big Boys" in NASA AZ though. I started 5th and worked my way to 3rd but then the young stud-muffin Austin Newmark in the big-power Vette finally took me near the end. He is faster and more experienced. Finished 4th over all and 3rd in class behind the 2 ultra fast old 911s of Erik Davis and Brian Turner. 2 years ago I dreampt of on the same track with them and now I am working my way up to a second or two off of their times. New Koni shocks are.. AMAZING.... Here is is. LOL @ target fixation at 12:03

I had to find a shop that could spin the DS to 10,000 rpm to get mine *better*.

7.3 swap is done! Well sort of. Swapped my Vq40 Frontier for a 7.3 F250 and a little new trailer. Racing this weekend. First time on the Koni 8611s and a 1" sway bar.

Thinking about doing the 7.3 PSD swap on my S30 and wonder if anyone has step by step instructions and can tell me the best oil to use.

So if I sectioned my struts per the sticky and used the spacer when I installed the 8611 Konis I am still good? Haven't driven it yet.

Your numbers roughly track with mine. Heck if I was selling engines I'd want my dyno on my side too. Dynos measure Torque and RPM and then multiply those numbers and divide by 5250 to obtain HP figure. (Surprised how many people don't believe this. Try the math on your chart .. . But then a weather and other correction factors attempt to standardize output to some constant reference temperature and pressure so that in theory your engine in a Colorado summer reads the same as a Seattle winter. There is way too much variable at the weather station for consistency. Daves new dyno is in a nice room and looks great. More importantly he can test engines back to back on his own baseline and measure his product. Did you have filters on? Those were about 7hp for me.

Found them for $275 from a shady retailer, called Summit Racing and made my case.... They matched. I buy a fair amount from Summit. Great price considering the next alternative is probably $1000+ per corner.

^ is that enough knurl?

It incurs a decent penalty in my race class so I need to evaluate that "risk / reward" scenario. Is shifting my limiting factor? Is reliability more important? Will the penalty pay off? And ultimately can I get it done in time for next race... No.

Reverse is expendable... The Dog-legs are older and a royal PITA to rebuild compared to the 71b Might do a 71c next round, but its heavier. The 71b is very light and strong enough.

Update. The 2nd gear crunch. Racing rarely sees 2nd gear but it was crunching on downshift. If you recall way back I put shims under the syncro key springs for 3&4 which helped eliminate 3&4 crunch. But I didn't do it for 1&2. Last night I added the shim washers for the 1&2 shift slider which hopefully will allow more braking force on the cone before the slider releases. I also deglazed the cones and rechecked all the clearance. 4th is getting a replacement for its cracked brass ring and will radius the corners of the slots where I remove the meat. The .773 5th is a little more work because the .745 OD gear is beefier and the Warner syncro system is smaller so I have to do some shimming and grinding to get things lined up properly again. Pics to follow. Next race is January 10 & 11 at a track that needs 2nd so we'll know soon enough.

I just finished installing Koni 8611 double adjustables One of the old Illuminas was stuck on #1 and the adjuster was dead. The Koni feel (by hand) is way, way way different.

2014 Regional Winner in a class of fast cars.

I went back and made it bigger but that strut had a huge weld blob on the bottom. The adjuster fits clear and spins freely now. Having the Gland nut ID turned down to just accept the top of the KONIs so they will be self centered. Cutting a spacer for the back shocks once that is done to fix height. Then button 'er back up. Tj

The difference in feeling just manually manipulating the Illumina vs the 8611 is "shocking". Can wait to drive at the first race in January. Old Illuminas were tight in the housing. Had to run a flap wheel inside the tube for a while to make room for new shocks. Hole a bit off center..

Well no, but close. One nut atop the shock and the whole suspension drops down out of the spherical bearing and you can maneuver it down and pointing away from the car . Spring and stuff just lifts off, remove gland nut and slide out shock. To me it's similar work to the 2 19mm bolts at the knuckle arms (az-Zcar billet). Like you mentioned elsewhere its maybe 30m job including jacking the car. Starting compression setting suggestion?

just need the 2 bolts removed from the bumpSteer spacers? Or... 1 nut for strut top, loosen gland nut and remove the shock. About the same either way? And in theory the alignment and corner balance should not be disturbed. But I saw you posted previously to start the bump adjustment at +3 from full soft. I am running 550 front springs for the next event then reevaluate.

I just installed the TTT LCAs. A little heavier (steel) but easy adjustability.

Pulled my Tokico Illuminas out tonight. They served me well. Koni 8611-1259 double adjustables arrive tomorrow and will drill the bottom hole, clearance the tubes and get all buttoned back up.

And here I sit on a 737 at FL400 reading this thread for the first time with the AHA!!! I can indeed have adjustable sway bars.. Thanks guys.