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SENZA PARI

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SENZA PARI last won the day on December 5 2013

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    http://senza-pari.com/

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    Menasha, Wisconsin

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  1. IMAG0211 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr upload by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0199 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr A little progress.
  2. IMAG0211 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr upload by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0199 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  3. I hope to have my IRS apart and measured using our Romer arm. I'll import all of the data into SolidWorks and recreate the frame in 3D. If anyone needs or wants any specific measurements I'd be happy to get them for you.
  4. The Cobra rear end will be left intact, however I will be ditching the stock cradle and A-arms for something integral to the frame and much moer tidy. The wheels will need about 9" of flare per side, thats a ways off though. I had an engine failure in my daily driver so this took a back seat for a few months:-/ You'll start seeing the frame together soon. Thanks! and to Shri2222, that yellow is awesome.
  5. Currently, at it's final ride height. Rocker panels still need to be trimmed up to the bottom of the door sill for the new frame/floor. Total height is 40.80". IMAG0967 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0121 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0109 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0107 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0094 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  6. I'm guessing that would be me... I picked up my Cobra rear end this spring, and will be incorporating it into the new frame. IMAG0089 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0077 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0094 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0097 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  7. 280Z FRAME LAYOUT-1 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr 280Z FRAME LAYOUT5 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0801 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0806 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0926 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0952 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0957 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0961 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0967 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  8. 280Z FRAME LAYOUT-1 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr 280Z FRAME LAYOUT5 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0801 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0806 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0926 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0952 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0957 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0961 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0967 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  9. I haven't been on here in quote some time so I figured it was time for some updates from the past 6 months... IMAG0035 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0036 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0039 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0045 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0046 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0057 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr COBRA IRS 1 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0089 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG1813 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr 6296591213_27b1b31149_z by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG2132 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr IMAG0088 by SENZA PARI #1, on Flickr
  10. I have an extra RB26 intake to use for the intake. Is this helpful to show these guys how nice it will turn out ?

    cheers,Vinny

  11. Thanks! We refers to Senza Pari, which is our new company started earlier this summer.
  12. Absolutely... Easiest way to do it is take your overall bend angle and break it evenly into the number of sections you wish to use... the more sections, the smoother the transition. We use Solidworks to model each individual pie-section, and then lay everything out just to. From there, each piece is laser-cut from the Parasolid file to the exact angle, to within .003". We even etch the piece at 0 and 180 to line everything up perfectly, or they can be offset to create a complex curve... Here's a Rotary manifold done using 15 degree pie-sections, before and after. IMAG1047 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr IMAG1112 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr Downpipe using 10 degree sections (each bend is 70 deg. for this particular downpipe). IMAG1318 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr IMAG1382 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr And the L28 header we're working on... all pie-cuts. You can see the etch marks modeled into each pice if you look closely. L28_EXHAUST_HEADER by SENZA PARI, on Flickr IMAG1022 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr L28 6-1 COLLECTOR 008 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr Our last 20B setup... IMAG1614 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr
  13. Yep, the front versions are only about .75" above the mounting plate, where the rears (shown) are 2.25". Here they are without the studs in place jsut yet. Too much going on with the holidays/hunting/other cars to get these in the car just yet! 280Z REAR STRUT HATS 005 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr 280Z REAR STRUT HATS 008 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr
  14. Or you could use something such as this... this replaces the factory rubber strut insulator (which is basically 2" of useless hard rubber). The top of the strut mounts into the D-hole just as stock, only its now sits above (or any height you'd care to have it at depending on your shock setup and desired ride height) the three mounting studs, letting you keep all of your travel. Well, or at least 2" that would normally have to get rid of to drop it that low. I will have pics of the actual completed hats this next week. 280 REAR STRUT TOP HAT by SENZA PARI, on Flickr
  15. Thanks! The section of piping shown (1.5" nom, true OD of 1.90" with 0.065" wall) was done simply to setup the welding parameters for the material to be used, it wont be used for anything:-) The header for the L28 will be done using pie-cuts, there will not be a sinle pre-bent piece used. Sure, its more welds (rediculously more welds...) but using pie-cuts gives you the freedom to route a runner wherever it might need to go in order to achieve equal length. And it looks out of this world. Here's a downpipe we jsut did using pie-cuts... so imagine this using the 1.5" piping shown above and many more bends:-) IMAG1320 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr IMAG1642 by SENZA PARI, on Flickr As for the rear bumper spolier, thats long gone! All but one of the above pics show it removed.
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