David GArcia

Have you tried to disassemble the iac valve and clean it with some carb cleaner? and check if your power fc setting and find if your using the correct setting for the z32 maf. Now check the maf voltage at idle you can actually lower the percentage of the voltage through settings. Change the percentage of the given volts that are given at idle. Lower it by .5% at a time until you get a desired idle. Not all mafs read the same voltage even when they are the same maf for example compare a couple z32 mafs and youll find that the signal voltage at idle is different even if its at the same rpm. now check if you have a smooth acceleration.

Update: I finally got a new mas airflow shipped. I used a 97 usdm maxima maf that was bought new from ebay for about 35 dollars compared to a oem rb25det series 2 used maf(pink sticker) that usually go for around 75-100. They are interchangeable as they are the same maf with just different part numbers. After i installed this new maf i had put the voltage back up since this maf was actually reading the right voltage. I'm just putting this info out there who one day will need a new maf down the road they will know exactly what to look for. Im not sure if this information was in these forums already. OEM #: maxima 1997 maf 2268031U00 = rb25det series 2 maf 2268031U05

I was able to lower the voltage output through the power fc settings and now the maf reads at the aproriate level.

Hello guys i had my car running right for about a year now well reccently it has been acting up at idle/start. I was getting a hard start and running rich at idle. So I already cleaned my iac valce. Adjusted my tps to .47 volts, cleaned throttle body (q45), cleaned my o2 sensor and maf. I got rid of my hard start issue but it seems as if i still end up running rich after the car warms up. So I believe my maf is the issue because my volts go up to 1.8v at idle and it begins running rich and black smoke comes out of the tailpipe.When this starts to happen my idle drops down to 500-700 rpm. I was reading somewhere and the correct specs ofr the maf should be 1v to 1.4v for a e60 series 2 (pink tag) maf. I have a power fc that tells me data in real time. I also figured that my maf is supposed to read ambient air temperature but it doesnt read anything at all. Does this sound like a bad maf?

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I have'nt had much luck finding a 280zx 79/81 A1 Master Cylinder with the 15/16 bore why not go with the Willwood 1 inch mc? Reason saying is because rock auto no longer has 15/16 in stock that bolt up to the stock booster although they do carry the option if you purchase a rebuilt mc you ship them your old 15/16 mc and they will rebuilt it for you. I thought I had gotten lucky find at the junkyard turns out a couple days after my install my resevoir was completly empty I unbolted it and found brake fluid in my new booster! I ran out of patience so I recently bought the willwood 1 inch MC. It is coming in soon and I've read it's pretty easy to make it fit.

Looking to purchase Arizona Z Car Wilwood Front and Rear Brake kits and a coilover setup with 280z rear spline count, checking if anybody wants to sell there stuff before I decide to buy it brand new. Let me know what you got and how much you are thinking. I need the 4 lug nut version of the wilwood conversion. Thanks

You could also do a gps speedo from Speedhut

Where did you tap in to get an oil psi pressure reading? Did you just remove the original sensor and added the one that Speedhut supplies? If so then the engine temperature and oil psi readings are not being sent to the ecu after the install correct?

Sorry for the late reply I was really busy at school :/ Well during acceleration I did feel an increase in traction. I have not really went all out for auto x with the set up yet. I will tell you that I am able to handle corners better with the lsd. I took it down to a local canyon and it is a completly different feeling with lsd much more grip.(confidence to drive faster through turns) Since, when I did the swap I also installed new bushings for the whole rear suspension my ride is a whole lot smoother. I have done burn outs, hard pulls, and donuts and my axles seem to hold up with no problems. The r180 casing on the sti diff seems a whole lot smaller from the s30 r180 but don't let that fool you of it potential.

It looks as if he rolled over. :/

Since you fixed your problem I wanted to ask you a question. To mount the 280z booster did you have to redrill the firewall to acomodate the booster?

Thank you for the information. When i purchased my z the booster and master cylinder did not have a gasket in between. After a while my master cylinder broke and leaked the brake fluid into the booster. Then they both went out and now I have to replace both. It gives me a good oportunity to upgrade to the 280zx brake master cylinder.

I was wondering if therw is a seal i meed to use when i bolt up the brake master cylinder to the brake booster?