Bowtiez

Gabriel at Techno Toy Tuning is sending me some 200 lb 10 inch springs for the rear. I want to try the 275s I have on the rear on the front first. I get mixed opinions on springs. I need to weigh all 4 corners of the car. The 50/50 is a guess based on where I put a floor jack so that the front and rear tires lift equally. The last time I ran, I discovered that the supercharger had lost boost due a blown hidden intake gasket. With the supercharger working properly, it should be all in by 2500 RPM and produce approx. 500 lbs of torque. This may make for a brand new ball game.

The car was set up as a track day car. I have 275 lbs coil over springs all the way around with Tokico adjustable shocks. Gabriel is sending me some camber plates which will allow me to use 10 inch long springs in the front with 300 lbs instead of the current 7 inch springs. I am going to replace the back springs with 200 lb springs. This may help. I called Qa-1. The tech recommended to replace the back springs with 200s and the front with 225s. This may also encourage me to drive the car more.

1) I am 68. The last time I was on the Hallett track in Tulsa, I was racing with a Ariel Atom. The guy got a little frustrated, passed me on a short straight into a very tight curve, realized he could not make it and slammed on the brakes while I was still at full throttle. If I had been a split second slower to react, two cars would have been totaled. That made my decision. 2) I'll try to find a time slip. I believe 113 was my trap speed with a 10.4 1000 foot. 3) We tried every kind of launch including a second gear clutch burner. The result was still tire spin. I think the key is getting the car to squat. What spring rates do you recommend. I have about 50/50 weight distribution now. 4) The T10 is rated for 325 lbs of torque. My engine is about 500 lbs. I am using an R230 TT Viscous LSD rear end set up with 3:69 gears and Moser axles. I am using 1310 Chevy Ujoints. I wonder if use slicks, I will blow the transmission. I think that is my weak link. 5) I am using TT brakes. I don't think that 15s will clear the calipers. I have an extra set of 16 X 8's that will clear as well as a couple 17 x 9s. I can run 28's if I raised the coil overs.

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I originally set the s30 for track days and autocross. Due to my age, I have now started drag racing instead. The 260Z JTR conversion has a Richmond Super T10 4 speed, 500HP supercharged 350 V8, and a 3:69 R230 Dif conversion with 315:35:17 Nitto drag radials. The best an experienced friend of mine could get out of the car was is a 1.95 60 foot time with 12.32 et in a quarter. I have 275 springs in the rear and 300 in the front. He said this should be a high 10 or 11 second car if we could hook up. Any ideas?

I tried a Novak hydraulic push rod conversion. With the V8 and Nitrous, the rod bound with torque and blew the motor. I bought a Tilton engineering internal throwout bearing set up for my Richmond Super T10. It leaked so I had the factory rebuilt it. I bought another one from McCleod because I could not wait. Its for sale for $150 with the spacers needed for clearance. If I am not mistaken, the Super T10 uses the same Tilton part number as the Muncie.

l have taken my Supercharged V8 260Z as far as I want to go and kind of bored. I found a Datsun 2000 that was going to the crusher. The engine is incomplete and very expensive to buy parts. The transmission is a good five speed. Will a 280Z motor bolt to that transmission? Have also been thinking about putting a JDM 240SX turbo in it if I have to start from scratch. This will not be a street driven car.

My understanding is that the 6L480E is 3 or 4 inches longer and also wider than the 700R4 and that the 4L80E is the same size as the 700R4. What tunnel modifications are needed to use the 4L80E? I have pretty well decided on a 200R4 custom built for my supercharged 350 but have not pulled the trigger yet.

BTW: My fuel tank build pictures are under Bowtie350V8. You will have to cut out the spare tire well and build a new firewall structure. I used a Summit fuel tank with sending unit, angle iron, diamond plate and some 3/8 all thread for support.

Due to cost and complications, I can't recommend the LS conversion. Lot of plus and minus decisions. The lower weight can be compensated by moving the battery to the rear and using aluminum everywhere possible in the front. I am not sure the performance is worth the extra cost based on racing against them. Driveability using fuel injection and not having to cut a hole in your hood is. I can change my plugs with socket wrench and a socket and there is plenty of room to work. I have been on my 260Z since 1999 and gone through all sorts of changes. If I had had a decent plan I would have not bought things twice. I started with a 350TH and a mild 350 Chevy which was great for drag racing but not road course. I changed to a Richmond T10 4 speed and broke u joints at the starting line. Tried a Novak hydraulic clutch fork which locked against the tunnel after a 100 shot of nitrous, missed a shift, revved to 9 grand and blew the engine. Tried a Tilton internal hydraulic clutch-failed. Bought a McCleod hydraulic cluch-failed but fixed. Installed the first Techno Toy R230 Conversion using a 1990 twin turbo. I was having fuel starvation due to the stock tank which was replaced by a fuel cell, electric pump and 3/8 lines. Pictures are on my photobucket album. Added Arizona Z Car 5 bolt front disc brakes and Cobra R wheels. Now, I have added the last of the 1551 series Edelbrock superchargers, 500 lbs of torque and going back to a built 200R4 to get overdrive. Without overdrive, the car is twisting 3500 RPM at 65 MPH.

I just added an Edelbrock roots type supercharger and noticed that I gained about 20 degrees. I am using a Griffin 26 X 19 radiator and Permacool 14 inch 2950 CFM fan with a 195 degree thermostate. I am moving the puller fan to the lower left corner, adding a pusher 14 inch fan to upper right and changing the thermostat to a 180 degree. Hopefully this get things back to normal. If so, I am going to put lighter and smaller 2200 7 inch permacool fan as a puller. The JTR set back position made a big difference even for road racing. I have louvers in both the hood and inspection panels.

This specs out as a race engine. I am not a fan of solid roller lifters for the street. 11:1 is pushing the limits of the 93 octane gas we now buy, must less 91. You may have to enhance the vacuum of this cam if you have power brakes. This thing probably makes its power in the 2500 to 7000 range. Power may be a little exagerated. Lots of expensive parts here. Might be worth taking a chance if you want a race motor. I bought a new GM 330HP long block for that price which was destroyed by a combo of nitrous and a missed shift on the weak single row timing chain they put in the crate motors.

I have a Techno Toy R230 conversion on my 4 speed 260Z and a 425 horse SBC Chevy. I am using 5 on 5 x 4.5 adapters to run Gram Light 17 X 9.5 wheels with a 6 inch backspacing. No problem with breakage with either road racing with Kumho 700s or drag racing with the MT ET 275:40:17 drag radials but my sixty foot time sucks at 2 seconds and I want to try slicks. I have been advised that I should not use the adapters for safety reasons. This means I need 4.5 to 5 inches of backspacing. Most slicks come in 15s. Are there any 15s that will clear the Nissan Twin Turbo calipers with the backspacing I need for the 260Z? I have already cut the fenders and added ZG flares. I also have 16 X 8 wheels that do have 5 inches of backspacing but the Hoosiers have 12 section widths and the rim would be minimum width.

Based on the amount of money I have wasted trying to save money on my Z car build over the last 10 years using someone's cheaper or half a__ed product, my advice is to set realistic goals, mortgage the house or take a second job and get the best in the first place. JTR, Dave's Arizona Z Car, and Techno Toy are, in my opinion, the best sources for hard core parts and help. Motorsports for accessorizing and hard to find stock pieces.

No problems so far with a 12:37 at 111 MPH or numerous trips to the Hallett road course. However, I think if I move to slicks that may change. I do have an SCCA rollbar and strut supports front and rear. My plans for this year at Branson is an old school Edelbrock supercharger added to my clone of their 435 HP motor. I believe it is time visit the chassis shop because that should net me over 500 pounds of torque on demand.

I hope you bought the coated Sanderson headers. I have had those on my car for over 6 years and they still look like new. I do recommend using copper gaskets even though it is not recommended by the manufacturer because They fit that well.

One problem that I have that may be effecting the 60 foot time is that I have Techno coil overs adjusted in the rear to clear our speed bumps and the 275:40:17 ETs. This causes toe in and tire wear and maybe a bad footprint. Techno Toy sells toe adjustable tubular A arms for $425. This may be necessary since I cannot figure out anyway way to change toe in on the stock arms.

I did either the first or second customer installation of the Techno Toy conversion in a 1974 260Z in 2007. It is a quality conversion but very heavy especially when the chunk of the R230 weighs 117 pounds. Techno worked with me to get the correct mustache bar drilling. I also had to cut an inch and a half out of the frame and box and reweld to clear 11 inches worth of chunk. The A arm on the passenger side will not clear the star without clearancing and rewelding. The R200 would have been much simpler but I wanted a bullet proof setup. This is what is being used for drifting with up to 800 HP. Can't image more abuse. I am turning 12:37 at 111 MPH with MT ET Drag Radials with no problems. Horsepower is around 400+ at the crank. I am going to slicks because my 60 foot time is awful (2.00).

I bought the finishing kit for my existing Motorsports ZG Flares. It really sets the flares off. However, I had drilled larger holes for my existing flares than the screws that came with the flares. I went to Home Depot and found some tapered brass screws that would fit inside of the plastic grommet and still be able to have the cap put on. Well worth the effort.

This motor does have 4 wires coming from the motor It does not look like the picture. The motor is longer and has a large round rusty plate with three screws and over sized 1 inch washers holding it to the housing. I think you hit the nail on the head. I have the original window sticker. This was a California car that did not come with air. I can't seem to attach a .jpg picture. Update: I pulled the motor after your showing me the picture and took it to my favorite troubleshooting armature exchange shop. Mark says the motor is designed to be run counterclockwise or clockwise. The two reversal wires must be together but a bad connection resulted in the warm wire. He recommended butt splicing the two wires together and also replacing the connectors for the good wires. Thanks for your help! BTW: When I pulled the glove compartment liner, there is ton of connections on the passenger side above the fuse box. I would like to clean this up for when I install my Vintage A/C and heat. I know I don't any wires for EFI,CDI or interlock BS. The only way I know is to pull one connection at a time and see if any lights, etc. quit working.

Very possible. The guy I bought the car from was a tinkerer. Should there be four separate wires coming out of the motor itself?

I have a 260Z V8 conversion whose wiring is a nightmare left over from the previous owner. I have looked through several schematics, both on line and in a Haynes and can't seem to find the correct diagram for the heater and A/C. This had an A/C but is no longer there. Not sure if it was factory or not. There is an orange (yes, orange) , a red, and two black wires coming out of the motor. The red wire goes into a white conection. One of the blacks goes into the same connection to a blue/red. There is no such thing as an orange wire in any diagram I have found. In order to make the blower run, I have to connect the orange wire right back into the other black wire of the motor. This appears to be a factory connection. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I putting this back on the street and this is the last problem child which was never issue when I was racing. I am just about ready to buy a Vintage heat and air unit if it will fit and trash this whole mess.