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oakland240

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    Okaland, Ca

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  1. Just to update you guys, I hired a local hot rod mobile mechanic to take a look and help me get it started. I had been using the wrong timing mark on my damper so my distributor was way off. Never got around to figuring out the timing light thing, because it turns out the rockers were all very very loose. Now I have to figure out how much to tighten them, I posted a thread in the troubleshooting forums. The more I do this the more I figure out how much I don't know about engines.
  2. This should be a fun one for you chevy veterans. I bought my long block with intake manifold/etc a few years ago. I do not know what brand/type camshaft/lifters I have, although I do know duration/lift etc from an email when I bought it. When I purchased the engine the mechanic loosened the rockers. I need to tighten them up but I do not know if/how much lash/preload to do. I am loooking for the easiest fastest solution, I have ideas: Tighten to 0 lash, then some more, if they feel squishy still then I know it's hydraulic? This is what someone told me. Take intake manifold off, inspect. Leave a 20 ish thousands lash see how noisy it is and tighten up if it sounds too noisy after it's been running a bit. I have been posting in the V8z forums so I'll just mention, this is a 388 chevy stroker with dart aluminum heads and 1.6 roller rockers. I'm just looking for an easy ish way to do this without having to tear apart my engine. If they are solid lifters how do I know how much lash is needed? Is there anything I should specifically watch out for so I don't break my engine parts? Many thanks!
  3. I'm no expert but that looks like a starter for a small (153 tooth) flywheel. Anyway it looks like it bolts up the same as mine.
  4. The engine does not run, I'm hoping to change this.
  5. Hi all, I am progressing on my project and got to working on getting the timing set up. Once I wired it correctly the timing light would light up when I connected the pickup to the coil wire to the distributor but not when I hooked it up to the cylinder #1 wire. I also checked briefly on the #3 wire also did not work. Foolishly, I took out the #1 plug and turned the engine sure enough it gave a powerful spark (through my body and the normal spark plug gap) and the timing light picked it up. I checked and the engine is grounded. The timing light is brand new. The only thing I could think of this evening is maybe trying the old spark plug. The wires are securely connected as far as I can tell (and the spark while holding it seemed to confirm. It's a new (but sitting for a while) coil, msd 6al box, msd billet distributor, wires, and plugs. Any ideas on what could cause this? Any way to tell if theres a spark getting to the cylinder other than taking the plug out and checking (engine is not running yet, this is to try to set up initial timing). Any chance the plug is firing but the timing light is not picking it up? Thanks for any and all help.
  6. Hey, Paypal & PM sent, haven't heard back. Just a bump of sorts.
  7. I was doing a quick search and came across this gem. If I use the stock 280z half shafts I assume I also need whatever companion flange/yoke that attaches between these shafts and the differential? If I do need these, any tips for removing these from a car when I go to a junkyard?
  8. The more I read about this stuff the more I think I should keep the existing r180 in there to make my car driveable, then do the entire lsd swap. If your kit is not too much money I'd be very interested in it. The the companion flange and the side stub flanges you talk about....both of those connect to the differential side of the axles?
  9. Just though I'd mention how I got one of these off today...Although this is more of a junkyard technique. I wedged a breaker bar on the nut and since the wheels were off I put a crowbar through the wheel bolts and had to jump on the end a few times ( I weigh 200+ lbs) and it came loose. It was pretty fun and I think it's great for a junkyard but I'd be afraid to do that to my own car. Hope this helps someone.
  10. Drivers side (tape showing where additional clearance needed for steering shaft) Good thing I didn't need that slave cylinder huh? Passenger side (tape showing where runs into frame rails) Showing suspension part interference, you can see the above photo how this has already been clearanced. Tomorrow I will be taking them back to Sanderson to have the taped areas worked on. If you need them worked I would either call them and ask for the best advice on how to do yourself or maybe they could measure mine and duplicate the clearances for you?
  11. Just as an update I bought the C33 headers for my '71 240z...they are NOT bolt up in my case, luckily I am local to Sanderson and they have been EXTREMELY helpful with modifying them to make them fit, if anyone would like pictures of some of the clearance issues and modifications I can upload them before they get installed on Tues or Weds. Also for anyone in my situation, make sure your oil pan does not have flares on the side as the passenger side headers WILL NOT FIT. I also had to have the headers dented to clear the steering shaft (not sure the correct name) and the passenger side frame rails and also the suspension thingy the sits below the frame rail (yeah I'm pretty clueless about suspension). I also had to shave down the bellhousing on my T5 where the slave cylinder goes, but that was fine since I am using a hydraulic throwout bearing. In addition I bought a oil filter relocation kit that looks pretty nifty from Trans-Dapt. I have a pretty hot engine which will benefit from the log tubes, but I encourage anyone with a similarly limited knowledge of car things to avoid the long tube headers unless your engine really requires them. If anyone wants pictures or elaboration I can try to help you out. PS shameless plug, Jeremy at Sanderson Headers has been really helpful, I have been there a number of times and he has not charged me extra to get all the modifications done and he even gave me a discount for be local/jobless/paying cash/etc, if you are buying headers for a Z I would ask for him.
  12. I am the proud owner of a CLSD r200 going in my project (currently has stock 180 installed, bought the car as a scarab with a 350), after seeing the FAQ I am fairly confident I can fit in my car. My question is this...can I bolt up the stock '71 240z half shafts to the r200 as a temporary solution to make the car driveable and then replace them to go to the 300zxt axles as a separate step? I would just keep the existing r180 in there for now except I'd prefer not to have to re-cut the driveshaft to put in the LSD. If the stock half shafts fit is there any reason not to use them temporarily with the lsd other than the strength issues? If this has been discussed before please point me to the thread, it seems like a basic question but I didn't see an answer when I searched. Thanks!
  13. Thanks for the quick replies, it doesn't sound too bad to cut a new one but I am still surprised it was so hard to find a post like this one using google. I'm sure you have saved some other googler a headache too.
  14. So this seems too basic to post but after a fair bit of youtubing and googling I have yet to find an answer so here it goes... I have a 383 stroker motor and a WC t-5 pulled from a '89 camaro with the stock bellhousing. Currently I have the bellhousing bolted directly to the block. In this setup there is a gap on the bottom of the bellhousing where it is not bolted to anything. I need to find the part to connect the bellhousing to to seal it up so rocks/water/grease/small animals don't fly in there. I found http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15705/ I also have seen pictures like: http://www.americanpowertrain.com/pics/images/Quicktime/Qtrm-6010b.jpg But I'm really not sure what part I need and what the proper name for them is (best guess is the summit part and is called motor plate or block plate). I have come across Dust Covers that appear to only be for automatic transmissions, similar to the picture. Any guidance would be appreciated.
  15. As I suspected, I should just stick with the JTR kit, thanks though.
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