geordieggg

Yeah checked that right back at the start of the problems. Ended up having to pull the motor out anyway (thanks to a snapped bolt) so measured absolutely everything and came up with the conclusion that the cover sat too far back from the flywheel, so swapped it with another one I had from my other car. Problem solved.

Right, so here's the problem as I understand it: New clutch cover was same height as the one I removed from the car. Now, I have one I removed from a R30 Skyline as well, so I thought I'd check that. Old Skyline cover height = approx. 44mm Thrust bearing collar from same clutch (measured to face of bearing) = approx. 58mm Which gives a total of 102mm from flywheel, plus a little more for clearance. Now, the new one I got has: New cover height = approx. 58mm Thrust bearing collar from same clutch (measured to face of bearing) = approx. 58mm Which gives a total of 116mm - too much right? Which leaves me with a problem. It looks like I need a collar that is about 46mm (measured to face of bearing). Does that sound about right, or have I missed something major?

First thing I checked yesterday, it seems all good. Had to pull the motor out last night so thought it'd be easier to pull the motor and fix the clutch with it out rather than fixing what I need to on the motor and then pulling the box. I'll be checking for measurements, but I'd say that the collar is too long, or the clutch cover is too big (apparently the three different collars are to match three different clutch cover heights??), or both, so I'll get it sorted eventually. thanks for theinput so far guys. Will elt you know how I get on.

Might be quicker for you to fly over here and pull my box out than me doing it myself!! hahaha I have no idea what box it actually is, as the whole car is a bitsa (thanks to the PO). It does have LD20 written on it, so I'm assuming it's out of something else. However it doesn't have any external spring, and the pushrod on the slave cyl. is non-adjustable. Clutch cover was the same height as the one I removed, and is just a standard OEM replacement clutch I have no idea what collar I'm using either, but will check this (and the box number) when I pull it out again. I understand that cutting the rod was not the way to fix it, but needed the car going and driveable for a short time, and I have another slave & rod there. Now I've got a little more time I can fix it properly. I'm pretty sure I've got another collar there as well, so will hunt that down and compare them.

I recently installed a new clutch (stock replacement) in the car, and it's now starting to show the same symptoms as the old one I replaced. The old clutch used to slip at high rev changes, then got to the stage where even just trying to accelerate up the hill would cause it to slip. Bought a new clutch kit with everything, had the flywheel machined and the thrust bearing changed over by a shop. The problem I ran into was that the slave cylinder initially didn't want to mount up, it was like it was trying to constantly engage the clutch. I checked the slave was working correctly (not seized at all) but never thought of checking the pivot inside the bell-housing. Ended up having to shorten the rod, which seemed to work ok. Now however I'm starting to run into the same problem as what caused me to change the clutch in the first place, and I'm wondering if it's the pivot causing problems. The pivot itself was in good condition, it just "looked" like it was sitting quite a way out. The question I have is, what affect does adjusting this pivot have? My understanding is that, if it's further out (closer to the flywheel when the gearbox is installed) it'll move the end of the fork that contacts the slave closer to the front of the car, and if this happens on a large enough scale, the thrust bearing will always be in contact (however minimal contact it may be) with the clutch fingers. The other problem it may cause is the angle between the fork and the collar may be too great, causing the collar to bind on the shaft. Is my understanding correct? If so it seems logical to drop the box, move the pivot, replace the now shortened rod from teh slave cylinder and go from there.

I've got a couple of L28 starters here if you want one, shoot me a pm and an offer for one and we'll go from there. Also keep your eye on TradeMe as there's always someone on there wrecking either R30's or 280zx's.

I'm 99% sure that all the GC210 Skylines only came out L24 powered, but it'd be almost identical to turbo as a Zed, only minor differences, e.g exhaust may run under the car slightly different, bonnet clearances probably different etc. Apart from that it should be relatively straight forward to drop an L28ET in one.

I'm about to perform the 60mm TB upgrade as so many on here have done successfully before, but have some queries about the standard TB that's currently fitted. Pics of the offending item: AFM side Manifold side Underneath I'm worried about the vacuum ports underneath and what they actually run. One of them goes to the dizzy, one to the heater vacuum canister, a third to a little thing that sits on top of the thermostat housing and the fourth I'm pretty sure just tees in with the dizzy one. I'll have a good look when I get the car back (at the panel beaters now, thanks to an idiot mechanic ). If I do away with this throttle body, can I just plumb them into the manifold further along? If they need to be run in front of the butterfly to restrict vacuum at idle, then I could be in trouble, I'll need to modify the new tb further. Any Ideas?

Sorry if I come across as sounding pushy, but need to have the car running for the track on Sunday and this is the biggest thing I'm worried about at the moment. Can anyone shed some light on this? Brilliant, had a go at this last night, even manged to get some of the rockers back in, so myplan should work fine. Thanks for the great info.

Cam lift 0.305" for intake & exhaust Valve lift (net) 0.451" for intake & exhaust Duration @ 0.050" 224 for intake & exhaust Centreline @ peak lift 105° ATDC for intake, 114° BTDC for exhaust Now, cam timing @0.050" lift, intake opens 6° BTDC, closes 38° ABDC, exhaust opens 46° BBDC and exhaust closes 2° BTDC. Hope that all makes sense to someone out there!!

I put a copy of the cam card on my previous post, if the links not working let me know and I'll try it another way. Cool, thanks. I'm thinking that, because I'm changing the cam towers as well (for the spray bar) I can get the towers & cam in and lined up so there's no binding, then fit the rockers.

Well, after all this time, I finally got my A into G and got a cam reground here in NZ. So what are the general opinions, considering it's (I'm assuming) a stock head? Should make a considerable difference? The only things I'm concerned about are, on the back of the card, it tells me I must not use a synthetic oil during break-in, and that some synthetic oilsmust never be used with hard welded cams? Also, is it possible to change the rockers and lash pads (when setting up the valve-train) without removing the cam?

Sorry for the long rant, got a lot on my mind.................... This bit I agree 100% with, along with some of the other comments so far. It's sad seeing "kids" doing this sort of thing.............. These are the sorts of comments I have to say I don't agree with. I'm not in any way disrespecting anyone's opinions, and I'm not trying to start anything here with what I say, however I believe learning good values lies more in the old fashioned discipline way than what people say. I was bought up pretty strict. Hell, I'm not even 30 yet and I can tell you pretty much every ilegal thing I've done in several countries. Yet I've still had an interesting life, wasn't too restricted by my parents. However, looking at my wife's family, there's a lot more to what I'm saying, and all this is coming from first-hand experience. My wife is 25, got back into the work-force after spending 18 months or so looking after our first-born. She's the oldest, with three younger brothers. She's recently been put on Chlorazapan (sp?) and Prozac for health reasons, and can blow up at any time, yet probably the hardest working of all the children. She spent a fair time down south here helping set up the new dairy farm, just her and her father, mother and brothers were in the North Island. She'd be the most likely of the family to commit a planned murder........... disturbing, isn't it?? Her next oldest brother has problems judging right from wrong, especially if he's been drinking or smoking pot. Most of this stems from a brain injury he sustained 4 or 5 years ago. He'd more than likel kill someone by accident, not through thinking about it. However it's the next brother I'm concerned about. He's just on 18, been "institutionalized" for the last 6 years. He has ADD, ADHD, he's schizophrenic (sp?) and psychotic, just to mention the worst 4 things. The worst thing is, he was probably the best behaved out of the whole family until they put him away and upped the medication. Since then he's basically become a vegetable, drools a lot, repeats the same questions, and so on. Even without the medication, he can be the best behaved out of the whole family. In contrast, My wife's youngest brother is now sitting in prison after a string of driving offences, after being forced to move out of home after stealing so much and damaging so much stuff from the whole family (including me), yet he's the "baby" of the family and can do no wrong in his mother's eyes. He had the balls, when 12, to tell his parents "you can't smack (spank) me, or else I'll call the cops". He knew that that is the law. he's the true "psycho" of the family, yet there's nothing medically wrong with him. But I'd expect him to go full Colombine on everyone cause he's got the street smarts to do it, blame it on someone else and get away with it. I listened, I've seen, and I know how hard the parents can be on the family. I've seen the scale, the oldest gets away with nothing but the youngest gets away with everything through the changing times. My whole point to this long ramble is that, while it is the parent's fault for not instilling the correct morals and values, it's also society's fault for letting these little c**ts turn around and sue their parents for the smack on the bum they got when they were 5. Not having a dig at the US of A (or anywhere else for that matter when I say this) because everywhere is heading the same direciton, but everyone needs to stop blaming and sueing everyone else for their actions. I don't like what happened to dr_hunt's possessions, but I certainly like what those kids did at the end a hell of a lot less............ institutions aren't the place for children, families who actually give a damn and show some sort of interest and attention are.

Only suggestion I can make regarding the liquid filling is that it's there to stop the vibration of the needle at high speed. Reason why I say this is because of the reason mentioned, my experience was in the boat we had for years, we'd go through a fuel gauge every 2 or 3 seasons due to the vibrations of the needle in the gauge. The needle would snap off clean at the base. The gauge was an old VDO unit and was reading direct off the sender, with no compensation for "instantaneous" changes. Difference is nowadays, most if not all gauges come with something (can't remember my basic electronics, if it's a resistor, capacitor or whatnot) that will automatically stop the instantaneous "corrections" that most gauges deal with, so modern gauges really only deal with an "average" reading over a set length of time. Unless you've got some mega machine there that has no suspension and vibrates like a herion addict that needs a hit, then don't worry too much, your gauges should be fine as long as the internals are fine.

Yeah they come in a kit, and I'm the same, not too shabby at welding, can solder couple of pieces of wire together, but couldn't put that thing together to save myself! However, the one I'm looking at is second-hand and has already been put together and tested to ensure it's working, so it saves me the stress. I'm still debating about if it's worth getting or not, if I do get it I'll post pics and my results.