CRAVED

Now that is something i am shocked but pleased to hear... leaves so many options available.

i remember seeing on a hot rod show from the US - will try to remember which one - where a window was cut down by scoring the glass, then covering the score with alcohol then lighting it, then section was then wiggled up and down until it parted from the main area of the glass.. cant tell what type of glass it was just thought it might jog someone memory

those are some very good points he brings up there. though i have never seen the examples he gives being attributed to the PITH syndrome. Most people here that give examples is relational to high rpm blow by (not attributed to a loose engine) and visual inspection of the the cam areas to specifically show too much oil there. anyway, im hopefully be building a sump of my own soon for an RB30/25 conversion and this has some very good info on the baffle designs.

No they dont weld, but have no issues bolting together

Sounds fair, and i should have noticed the change in pickup point on the sump. i've looked at a few, alot use a steel bar through a bracket on the wall and each trap door, and not actually a hinge. wouldnt need to be alloy as it wont rust in there, but why not while your at it. im thinking that the diamond shape baffle would still need holes under it to allow oil to level on cruise, and just using the trap doors to force fill the baffle on corners. question though, how much space should you leave between the diamond baffle and the front and rear walls of the sump pan? should this be sealed to force the oil into the pickup area, rather than allowing it to go around it?

Bob H - is this oil pan been modified the be shallower than the std Sump? Obviously with the removal of the front Diff assembly some fabrication was required, just curous as to the thought process involved in the further change of the front sump pan. was it required for cross member clearance? Tomei Japan has off the shelf baffles - http://www.nengun.com/tomei/oil-baffle-plate also Trust has too - http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/oil-pan-upgrade-kit - just a little off topic - there is alot of talk here in AUS in regards to excess oil in the heads of the RB26's, which lead to the use of restrictors in the oil feeds to the head, also if a track car then an additional oil drain from the rear welsh plug in the head. Here seems to be a good site for ideas, turns out the Tomei baffles use the M3's rubber baffles http://tyndago.googlepages.com/rb26dettoiling

Looks like millenium jade - JW0 nice choice

the Cope calculator is pretty damn handy, thanks for the link up

there would be no way to use something like this unless using tape all the way accross the unit .. as there are no gutters in teh roof on skylines to attach them to.

there are multiple ebay links out there that will ship to Aus for the cost of the units again.. So US$20 for item and US$20 for shipping ... however that still works out at about AUS$48 .. might hook it up next month after payday see how we go.

just concerned that if they do not work as required that removal of them wont try to peel off the paint.

how are the Vortekz applied to the paintwork ? considering using them on the skyline to increase the effectiveness of the wing.. shame there isnt anywhere here is Aus that selss them (that i can find)

Australian site, but might be worth a look. https://rsp-secure.com/rarespares/default.asp?car_type=34A&model=DATSUN%20240Z%20260Z

looks like a good start, is there baffling in it or is the long side a horizontal line? ie does it sit how it is in the pics? or will it stand up?

Just a quick observation, wont those 2 vents on the sides draw IN air rather than let air out? due to the low pressure area under the hold (similar to the cabin fan inlet infront of the bonnet) or was this the plan for it? just curious, and it looks real nice regardless