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jthom5147 last won the day on August 8 2015

jthom5147 had the most liked content!

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About jthom5147

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 05/14/1987

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  • Gender
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Z's of course.

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  1. jthom5147

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Awesome, thanks!
  2. jthom5147

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    did you guys have to adapt the pushrod / clevis to the pedal at all?
  3. jthom5147

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Thanks for info!
  4. jthom5147

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    What clutch master did you go with? if I remember correctly I’m using a 350z slave on my rb and may run into issues also.
  5. These the same as Z32? If yes, there was a guy offering group buy on a run of them. Uses machined Honda Odyssey rotors. pm me if that’s what you wanted and I’ll send you the contact.
  6. jthom5147

    RB26dett transmission HELP! & 32 vs 33 engine

    I have an RB25DE trans if you're interested. Located in San Diego.
  7. jthom5147

    RB26dett transmission HELP! & 32 vs 33 engine

    see what you can glean from this.
  8. jthom5147

    1972 240z Price Check?

    Your car needs work. But l would wager that the other chassis needs much more work. Do yourself a favor and do some rust clean up so it doesn't get worse, take a deep breath and then work on what you can when you can. Everything about an old car of any sort isn't cheap and you won't get your money out of it either, we do it cause we love Z's. You'll end up hating it if you're not doing it for the fun of it (like trying to make a 50 year old car your "daily" and keep it running properly). Edit: maybe I'm biased by the 5-years-ago Z prices, but even what I've looked at lately that other car is a ~$3000 or less car on my local craigslist, and I wouldn't pay more than $1500 for it. If it were a running turbo motor in the chassis, I'd pay $4
  9. jthom5147

    RB25DET Crank with no key

    Nope. Sounds like you connected the starter wire incorrectly or your Z wiring isn’t what you thought. Double check your wiring. Use a volt meter to wire the starter wire to something that’s only hot when the key is turned to the right position.
  10. jthom5147

    RB25DET Crank with no key

    It shouldn’t be cranking if the ignition switch isn’t in the start position. The key physically in the hole doesn’t matter, only where the key has been turned to.
  11. Waste gate vacuum attaches between the turbo and the throttle body. Outside of that, location really doesn’t matter that much. Closer to the turbo is probably safer. Most internally wastegated turbos have the vacuum reference on the end of the compressor housing outlet before plumbing starts. The RB25 is no different except it first goes to a boost control solenoid. You’re supposed to connect the brake booster the bigger hole on the underside of the manifold in the center. Unless you’re not in the US, It’s BSPT, so use the nipple that came with the manifold or have it re-tapped to a common pipe thread. I retapped mine for 3/8 NPT and am using it for my megasquirt IAT; since I’m not running a brake booster.
  12. jthom5147

    10mm ring gear to 12mm carrier

    I’m having a vlsd installed in a 3.7 z31 case. The vlsd I bought was supposed to have 12mm bolts based upon what the internet says... which is always right... The 3.7 ring did have 12mm bolts. To take up some of the space, my fabricator turned some bushings to press in. There were no 12 x 13 units available on eBay, so you’re lucky with the 10x12.
  13. jthom5147

    WTB Shifter

    I have one with an 8mm thread.
  14. jthom5147


    Big Phil has some stuff on his YouTube channel. essentially there is no factory RB30DE, only an RB30E (sohc). The head on an RB30D is a head from certain RB20/RB25 mated to a 30 block. There are other requirements such as running oil lines for VCT, etc. youll find a bunch more info on Aussie sites as an “RB25/30”