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jthom5147 last won the day on August 8 2015

jthom5147 had the most liked content!

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About jthom5147

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 05/14/87

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    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Z's of course.

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  1. Waste gate vacuum attaches between the turbo and the throttle body. Outside of that, location really doesn’t matter that much. Closer to the turbo is probably safer. Most internally wastegated turbos have the vacuum reference on the end of the compressor housing outlet before plumbing starts. The RB25 is no different except it first goes to a boost control solenoid. You’re supposed to connect the brake booster the bigger hole on the underside of the manifold in the center. Unless you’re not in the US, It’s BSPT, so use the nipple that came with the manifold or have it re-tapped to a common pipe thread. I retapped mine for 3/8 NPT and am using it for my megasquirt IAT; since I’m not running a brake booster.
  2. 10mm ring gear to 12mm carrier

    I’m having a vlsd installed in a 3.7 z31 case. The vlsd I bought was supposed to have 12mm bolts based upon what the internet says... which is always right... The 3.7 ring did have 12mm bolts. To take up some of the space, my fabricator turned some bushings to press in. There were no 12 x 13 units available on eBay, so you’re lucky with the 10x12.
  3. WTB Shifter

    I have one with an 8mm thread.
  4. Rb30??

    Big Phil has some stuff on his YouTube channel. essentially there is no factory RB30DE, only an RB30E (sohc). The head on an RB30D is a head from certain RB20/RB25 mated to a 30 block. There are other requirements such as running oil lines for VCT, etc. youll find a bunch more info on Aussie sites as an “RB25/30”
  5. WTB: RB25DET transmission

    I’ve got a rb20 trans if you’re interested.
  6. Subaru Power Steering Setup

    Looking for an S30 cross member that has been modified for a Subaru power steering rack (forester, wrx, etc)
  7. OBX Locking diff - poor fit with output shaft spline

    Not sure what they “should be”, but here are some measurements from a 280z r200 and a z32 vlsd NA.
  8. Auxiliary Water Pump

    I’m looking for ideas and suggestions for an auxiliary electric water pump for my RB25 swap. The engine comes with an oil-water cooler that circulates engine coolant routed towards the heater core. I’d like to run a separate water pump and front mount heat exchanger to run cool water just for the oil cooler and for the turbo water lines (perhaps for expansion to other fluid-fluid cooling options later, like a diff cooler) looking for ideas for a small electric water pump to circulate warm coolant, a couple gpm is probably ok.
  9. engine choice

    If you’re restoring then the answer is the numbers matching block. if you’re building a fun car to look like stock then there’s no replacement for displacement.
  10. I cant seem to open your attachment. what you remove depends on what your swap includes; you’ll need to decide that. E.g the stock RB alternator is internally regulated so the external one isn’t needed.
  11. Oil Filter Pressure Relief Valve Plugged?

    You can find an oil filter that has a bypass, or your local auto parts store clerk can help you with that. You can run without a bypass, but a filter failure will likely cause further problems that the bypass protects against. I don't have an L28et to inspect, but I can confirm the L28et factory cooler has a bypass built in that allows oil to bypass the filter but not the oil heat exchanger. I can confirm that the RB25 from the factory has an extra oil passage as shown on your L series picture. The RB25det passage is also blocked because the bypass valves are in the cooler assembly and the RB25de passage is not blocked and contains a bypass because it doesn't come with a factory cooler.
  12. Rear end vibration under throttle in gear

    Newzed is right, any play at all is very bad when talking about wheel mounting. I went on a trip once and the group I was with was towing a brand new utility trailer. The hub had been painted before the wheels were installed and torqued. After about 500 miles the paint had been crushed / worn away allowing enough space for the wheel to wobble back and forth, making more space. Eventually the wheel ripped itself off the hub and taking the wheel on the 2nd axle with it.