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burntread

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About burntread

  • Birthday 01/21/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Interests
    Z cars, rock climbing, and good beer!

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  1. Hey Phred, What was the length of the harmonic balancer bolt? 16mm thread, 1.5 pitch, ??? length? If you know, it would be greatly appreciated! -Burntread
  2. Mark, the original hardline is even longer than a 20" replacement. It actually gives the SS line too much room and makes it curl a bit. I wonder if Ross wants the shorter 20" hardline for aesthetic purposes because that is what happened on the passenger side. According to Ross' instructions, I removed the hardline on the T junction that went to the passenger side caliper and replaced it with the longer SS line provided. This made it look nicer, but was not necessary. Two short SS lines could have been plugged right into the existing hardlines and that would have been that. I'll wait to see what yours looks like. Maybe it will open my eyes.
  3. Hello all, I finally got the custom SS lines to Ross' S30 Rear Disc Brake Conversion kit ( had to wait almost 3 months) and I'm trying to figure out why the driver's side hardline from the T junction needs to be replaced with a new 20" hardline. The SS brake line that is part of his kit fits right onto the original one. If anyone has any insight as to why this should be done, please enlighten me.
  4. I have a Megan exhaust on my G. The product was well made, easy to install, and came with great replacement hardware. IMO, Megan makes nice stuff!
  5. Take it to a shop and explain how important it is for them to not damage the housing (you can replace the spindle pins). One of mine came out with a spindle pin puller in two minutes. I took the other one to my friend's transmission shop and they used some of their big tools to extract it. Just don't rush them (the shop) and they'll get it out!
  6. Yeah, I tried it on one side and messed with the little rubber bushings, as well. I put the pads back in and the caliper slipped right onto the rotor! Great advice! Thanks!
  7. I just received the Rear Disc Brake Conversion kit from M-M and picked up a set of rebuilt 240SX calipers. Now, I'm trying put it all together and mount the things, but I'm having a bitch of a time trying to get the pads far apart enough to slide them down onto the rotor. I've tried to depress the piston for more clearance, but it seems like that isn't the problem. It looks like the part of the caliper that moves (the bar with the bushings that mounts to the caliper body) isn't moving enough to give me the clearance I need. I'm basically looking for suggestions. Thanks guys!
  8. Well, since I can't "un-modify" the crossmember, I'll probably have my friend put my Z on a lift and fabricate and install a Ron Tyler mount instead of trying to recreate the mistake we just did.
  9. So, I'll probably end up getting another crossmember and have everything mounted in place to get precise measurements.
  10. Yes, I have gotten rid of the rubber mount and have sandwiched the diff and the crossmember between polyurethane bushings and bolts. Hopefully, some pictures of what I did will come up. If not, I will try again later.
  11. Yeah, I'll probably give Dave a call and see if anyone else has experienced this. He might have a replacement.
  12. dsommer, the AZC moustache bar only seems to go one way and that is with the ears forward. JMortensen, with the R200 and AZC moustache bar installed into my Series I, the front diff crossmember doesn't match up to the body mounting location. It is about an inch short and doesn't reach. If I mount the diff by the crossmember, then the moustache bar is about an inch in front of the two bolts on which it mounts and won't match up. I put thick washers between the diff cover and the bar to forward locate the diff AND keep the bar in the proper position, but the studs coming out of the diff cover are only so long and do not allow enough distance to move the crossmember forward enough. I think I might just install the engine/trans and the diff without the crossmember and have a fabrication shop modify another crossmember to fit and line up the angles of the trans and diff at the same time. Apologies for being longwinded.
  13. I have a '71 240 where I am trying to get an R200 LSD into. I purchased the Arizona Z moustache bar and had the front diff crossmember modified so as to move it forward to mount up to the body. So here is the problem, the setup is too short! I raised the diff, mounted the moustache bar, went to the diff nose to bolt it to the car and it is about an inch away from the mount holes (aft) on the car. In frustration, I took the diff out, unbolted the crossmember and mounted it to the car so I could install the control arms. Any ideas as to why this is? Also, any thoughts on how to remedy? If need be, I could remount the diff and take some photos (but I wouldn't be thrilled). Thanks!
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