Canadianz

I had the cam gear spin on my L28 once. In that case, the bolt did not seem to have loosened appreciably, but it was the dowel pin that wiggled out far enough for the gear to spin on the end of the cam. I ended up swapping the cam to a different head, and shimmed behind the pin to prevent it moving again. This might be a different problem from yours though, as it sounds like things really came apart on you.

Looks great, see what happens, if it cracks modify it.

Before you get too crazy tuning or sealing check for a couple things. 1. What is your A/F ratio ? If you don't have a wideband it would be good to get one especially if you are tuning. 2. Is your MAF working correctly ? This could cause a bad A/F Ratio 3. Without a Catalytic converter your car will smell much different. 4. Are you getting soot on or around your tailpipe ? If so this is an easy check for a super rich condition. 5. Finally check and recheck for vacuum leaks. this can cause issues as well. 6. Are you running an aftermarket FPR ? Is it hooked up right and at the right pressure ? 7. As long as the PVC system is not leaking I wouldn't worry. I have even run some open to atmosphere and the smell wasn't noticeable Don't throw money at an ECU or tuning until you have determined the cause of your problem. Fix the Rich condition then go from there. Then once you know the problem you can fix it and seal up your car. Hope that helps Chris

If you like that, you'll also like this! Buzz saw

You can get the information at xenonz31.com To answer your question though, Yes the sensor will wire right in. The digital dash just needs the signal wire from the sensor, and the sensor requires a 5V power source to work, and thats all. Cheers, Rob

Having worked on a bunch of early 300zx's I would say though they are strong engines, the turbo models are annoying and time consuming to work on compared to a straight six. Also the headers and crossover pipe can crack and leak on the 300zx's and thats just a pain to change, same with injectors thanks to the intake manifold. Both are good cars though. I just get annoyed at how long simple tasks take on the 300zx's compared to a straight 6.

If you have a mechanical fuel pump, its possible for the diaphragm to leak fuel into the block and still function.

Not sure why its leaking, but DO NOT use form a gasket or RTV on it. Contact with fuel will swell it and turn it into jelly over time and is great at plugging fuel pumps, filters etc. Generally, causing no end of trouble for you. I don't know of any RTVs that are compatible with fuel, but I would be wary. Rob

Good to hear Chris, Im excited to see how the car goes this season, I know she was sure quick last year.

Looks like good work! Also, I think having a roof makes it look much much better too. lol

If you have no spark whatsoever, check that you have the polarity right on your VR sensor. It will not work if it backwards and is pretty easy to check by flipping the wires. Rob

Did you check the snout of the crank when you put the N1 pump on? Often on RB's there is a very small contact area between the crank snout and the oil pump drive, which can round off and then.... your oil pump no longer spins. I think you would have noticed it though if it was badly worn. Thats a known weakness with RB pumps, and there are collars that you can get to expand the contact area. Hope that helps, Rob

I believe its an older schneider cam. Not quite 100% on that, as I was given it by a friend. Before this motor the car had a very much stock motor, n42 head, block, dished pistons etc. etc. I would say the new motor feels like it has more potential, and it definitely could develop more power. The problem is it just pings very easily, so to have something thats driveable on a daily basis you will probably find you're going to pull a fair bit of timing. And in that state, its very driveable, but down on power and pretty much comparable to a stock motor in my opinion. As far as throttle response, I think you will find that is more dependent on your flywheel choice and tuning of the carbs or ecu. I am running a stock lightened flywheel (around 13lbs) and triple 45mm webers, and I'm quite happy with how the car runs, drives and responds to throttle input. I do feel however it could be much better if timing could be advanced. If I were you, I would keep your p79 on the motor, and then if you really want a hotter combo get the n42 worked on and then put it in your car. After all, its the ideal head to modify, and you'll probably be happier with the results. Hope that answers some of your questions!

If you search around on here, you'll find a lot of info/ discussion about this combo. Im running this setup with a .490 lift, 290 duration cam and its fine for daily driving, and generally cruising around in. Due to the chamber design it pings VERY easily once you give it more throttle, and so you'll have to back timing off accordingly. I'm going to run megajolt on the motor and see what I can do to get around this issue, but in the end I'll probably end up getting a better head as the current combo is not quite what I had hoped it would be. IMO, an unmodified N42 on flat tops is not an ideal motor for the street, but to each their own. Rob

Your boost controller shouldn't have anything to do with your FPR vacuum\ boost reference. That is one line you don't want to T into. It controls the rate in which your FPR will ramp under boost. Your boost controller should be referenced off your intake manifold pressure to get the most accurate idea of what the vehicle is actually ingesting, pressure wise. The Nismo unit has gotten good reviews but you are stuck with plumbing in a gauge before hand for fuel pressure and you are stuck with stock sized, barbed lines. However the install is easy. Stock FPRs will leak over time with a strong pump as a side note. Glad the adapter helped someone, most hot rod guys will have an aeromotive or similar fpr around the shop so its a quick way to put it to use. Oh and the "HKS" version is about 50-90$ ... so might want to stick with generic.