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HybridZ

pcs

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Whitsunday Qld.
  • Interests
    Working on my Z, modifications, improvements. Additions to my home, which was a two level split level home on a steep hill. It's still on the same hill but now there are seven levels. Just finished the carpentry workshop on level five.

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  1. Hi, I think I have an answer. If you swap them from side to side and flip them over I think the round corners will match up with the panel shapes much better. It will mean the clear lenses are on top but that should be ok. Is it possible to try a functional fit? pcs
  2. OK, I've had a look at the US vehicle circuit and it appears you are right. The hazard switch or the plug that connects to it may be worth some close attention. Maybe a squirt of WD40 (or whatever is popular to spray contacts with in the US) certainly won't harm the situation. If you want to pull the indicator switch out, you will need to take off the steering wheel and shrouds around the top of the steering column (and the metal tube thingo around the ign sw.)and then loosen the main switch assembly retaining bolt and slide the switch up the steering shaft releasing the various plugs at the same time. Once you have it off, turn it over and you will see the various switch modules can be released by undoing a couple of screws. The one you want has 3 male spade connectors sticking out and has 2 retaining screws holding it in place. At worst if you clean and lubricate the contacts, it will be another part of the puzzle ruled out. pcs ps When you reassemble the covers , don't over-tighten the screws as they will strip the plastic housing.
  3. Hi, it sounds like your problem is before the switch as the problem is common to both sides of the car. Without looking at the circuit, there is a fusible link, ign. switch and ign. relay,supply fuse , a multi-pin connector and hazard switch, a flasher module and the common flasher switch contact. My best bet is the hazard switch or the connector contacts behind it. Why do you say "It's not the flasher"? In Australia there are two separate flasher units on the '82 280ZX. One for the turn signals and the other for the hazard. Be very careful in saying it's not this or that unless you have used a known good replacement and also checked the contacts for looseness or corrosion. pcs
  4. pcs

    Comparison

    Thanks for that. The engine that sits under covers is out of a Nissan Leopard. It is a 3 lt, quad cam, with variable intake runners, variable valve timing, 24 valve, single turbo (but can be converted to twin turbos,. I have managed to pick up a flywheel, clutch,pressure plate, starter,power steering pump and A/C compressor as well as the large 5 speed gearbox and engine mounts and the TT sump. Engine management will be a Wolf 3D ver4. I don't have the spare time at present but have been gathering the bits and the knowledge so that when time is available I can go ahead with the transplant. pcs
  5. Hi Guys, Has anyone done a measurement comparison on the front sub frames of a 280ZX and a Z31 300ZX? Sometime down the track I'd like to fit an interesting engine I have into my 280ZX. Any dimensions would be helpful. pcs
  6. Hi Guys, The idea for a C/F rocker cover is to reduce weight and look cool. With fuel prices the way they are, cutting vehicle weight is one way to reduce the fuel you use. pcs
  7. Ok, What about a carbon fibre rocker cover. One size fits all. Much lighter than the Nissan alloy job. Now that's cool! pcs
  8. After reading this post, I tried a functional fit on my L28 which is about to go back into my 280ZX. Now I think that the supercharger I have is the one you are interested in. Yes, it does fit on the A/C brackets. The front bracket would need a bit of filing to allow the S/C to swing up a bit. The S/C intake would need to swing around 180 degrees and the mounting holes would need a little filing to make it fit. The outlet pipe would need to be cut before the moulded dented section, and an alloy bend Tig welded so that it sweeps up. (Either to feed the intercooler or direct to the T/Body if no I/Cooler fitted. The middle Vee pulley on the front of the crank would need to be removed and a mutlti V pulley fitted, and the A/C tensioning pulley replaced with a plain pulley to take the rear of the multi V belt. The original power steering pulley could be refitted to the front of the crank and the P/S pump moved slightly forward along with the P/S belt tension pulley. Now I haven't tried this out in the car yet but from provisional measurements, I am fairly confident that it will fit. Of course this is assuming that you have a R/H drive vehicle and so I dont know about clearances for LH drive vehicles. ( steering box etc) pcs
  9. I think you will find that it is 1/2" BSP. pcs Living in the land down under.
  10. There are two suppliers of these spacers available on Ebay.com (not the Oz site) I have bought the cheaper of the two and they appear to be very well made in 6061 alloy and anodised red. They are supplied with the correct length high quality bolts and fit nicely. pcs
  11. Argly Bargle, You reckon the shed looks bad. How much did they pay you to cart that load of rust away? The flat tops arn't good. Quite a lot different to the round tops.They are very restrictive and in Oz they are loaded with anti polution gear that was pretty crappy. There are quite a few really good early english cars that had original round tops. Have a look at the Triumph 2000 Disclaimer:My sick sense of humour is not always appreciated. Best of luck, pcs
  12. Further to the mollassas bit. If you have any rusty steel parts, then you can make up a bath of water and mollassas. 2lb of mollassas to a couple of gallons of water should do ok. Place the part in the bath (and cover)and every couple of days check out progress and give the bath a stir. It will smell a bit, but after 5-7 days the part will be like new. Once finished flush with fresh water and spray with CRC or other anti rust agent, or paint etc.Works well. pcs
  13. Hi Guys, If you can use bi-carb to blast clean,how would sodium chloride go. (common salt) When dry it is quite sharp and is crystaline . pcs
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