k204drek

Well i unplugged the chts and it fired right up it runs perfect with it unplugged but when i plug it back up it goes back to running like crap i drove it about 30 miles with it unplugged it has plenty of power and runs like a scalded dog. i went to oreilleys and the sold me what they said was a chts for 15 bucks so we will find out tommorow if its right. I really appreciate all the help.

No vaccuum leaks i fixed all those when i got the car. ill try and get to the parts store and get a chts. Iv downloaded the FSM been threw the fuel injection part a few times and researched countless hours tryieng to figure out whats wrong with it. Its my only car right now.

I have tried unplugging the CHTS and the car wont even crank. Ive been researching and is it possible that it could be the Air Regulator? Ill replace the alternator.

OK as the title says my 1983 280zx turbo runs awful until it is fully warmed up.. It also will not idle it just dies and then you crank it back up and it runs for like a second then dies but when you finally get it idle When you try and give it any gas it backfires through the intake and studders. When it gets warmed up it runs alright it still studders a little and backfires sometime but runs good enough to be driven. Also if the rpms go anything above 1k my fuel, door, charge, and another light stay on and my heater fan will come on sometimes but then it cuts off. With it idling and the heat on it idles at like 1.5k with the fan on and the selector in the air position (although i dont have an air belt) it will idle up to like 2k. I have had this thing for about 5 months and fiddled with it here and there and nothing i do makes a difference.

yes i changed the fuel filter. Its been running better and better each day.

I have the FSM i havent looked it at to much. I have ran seafoam, lucas, 2 bottles of b12, gas treatment and ocatne boost I run 93 in it all the time. It has all made it a little better. While i had my key in the on position a few minutes ago i could here the fuel pump straining and squirting some thick stuff threw it so im going to clean the tank and blow through the lines and clean out the fuel rail.

I believe i need to complete flush my fuel system i will start on that probally this weekend or sooner if it gets worse. It still takes forever to warm up which as i was read that the reason why it takes forever to warm is because the gummed up fuel system while cold is smaller and as it warms up the flow gets alot better. But after it warms up it runs great. It back fires while downshifting thorugh the intake and exhaust. It runs good enough to drive till i get the fuel system flushed.

Ok I had a cat put on it it was definatally part of the problem runs great but not perfect. Ok a new problem has arose, anything above 2k rpms all my gauge lights come on like when the key is in on position but not running. What is the tps supposed to be set at?

I adjusted the timing just by turning the distrubitor a little bit to accomadate for the lack of back pressure due to unbolted cat and it runs great in nuetral. You just touch the throttle and it goes to 3k. Then you hold it on the floor and it goes to 3 stops for 1/2 a second then spools up and goes to 6k and then i let off.

I will replace all my vaccuum hoses. I was thinking that the afm boot might be cracked ill check that also its just a pain to get to. I have no idea, Where are the timing marks on an l28et.

I swapped the wire with another it didnt change anything. My spark plugs are gapped at 32 i also cleaned them it made a heck of a difference for a while then it started running like crap again. I already fixed the boost leak, It is all stock.The turbo is in good shape. I ubolted the cat and it didnt make a difference.

Ok i figured out that my #3 injector had a crimped on wire undone. So we plugged it back up and it ran pretty good, you still couldnt floor it. You have to hold it about 1/2 throttle till 3k rpms and then floor it and it wont go past 5k rpms no way no how in nuetral or in gear. I unbolted the cat a few minutes ago it ran like complete crap. I have no idea whats wrong with it. I also changed plug wires it didnt make a different. I did notice that with the cat unbolted it did make the miss go down alot. Is it possible that i am 180 degrees out of time. Or my valves arent adjusted right or i just have bad gas. I have no idea. It take like 20 minutes to warm the car up you crank it it dies and so on and so on and then you finally get it to idle (like it has a huge cam) and you try to drive it and it takes you 4 miles to get up to 30. It was running perfect earlier then it just decided to start running like crap again. Please help. Sorry if i repeated anyhting.

Ill try to make it into town today and get some octane booster. And let you know how that helps.

I just got this car and was told it needed a tune-up but it has a brand new tune up just done to it. When we unplug the plug wire from plug 3 nothing changes. It runs good up until about 2k and after that the turbo starts to spool and the boost leaks really bad and it falls on it face. But when sitting in nuetral you can rev it up to about 4k and it will backfire and then go higher but it wont build boost in nuetral. I think one of the reasons it runs so bad is because it has bad gas in it, but i really don't know. I drive the car everyday and i drove it home going 65 on the interstate but it just wont get on it, and it takes about 3 or 4 miles to get up to 50mph. I need help asap because its the only thing i have to drive.

I will take myne apart tommorow morning when i go out to work on the z. Thanks for all the advice and help.

Nahh its a little different.

Where the heck do you buy a Fuel Pump Control Relay for a 1978 Datsun 280z?

I found the problem this thing is the problem. Now if i knew what to gap it against the electronic pickup at, Id be on the road.

Ok so i ran a hot wire and a switch and a inline fuse to my fuel pump. Im getting 42 pounds while sitting and about 32-35 during cranking. I have fire. My plugs are clean. The car wont hit a single lick I just dont know what the hecks wrong with it. I think my fuel injection relay is bad but i really dont know fuel injection just aint my thing id rather have carbs.

Ok the other day i was hot wiring my coil and when i put the hot wire to the battery numerous things came on like the starter, fuel pump. So im thinking i blew my fuel pump fuse (if there is one) or the relay. Now where would the location of the fuse/relay be at? I appreciate the help.

I got a new hei module I have 12 volts going into module but 2 volts coming out of module.

Not sure if i know what that means. Im gonna get a new HEI module for it tommorow and try it.

I poured seafoam in intake and didnt crank. ONLY BECAUSE I WAS OUT OF STARTING FLUID.

Voltage tester not regulator. I figured out that I do have 12 volts at my coil and at my hei module but not coming out of the hei module.

Ok this is wierd i put a hot wire on the coil with a eye connector tightened it securely and then ran my hot wire to the battery nothing happened. Ok so i bring out the voltaqge regulator and the hot side of my coil tests 0 volts. So i then test my battery it reads 12 volts until i touch the hot side voltage regulator lead with my wire hooked to the hot side of the cool it goes to 0. Is a 280z positive ground or what?