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5 Star Rising

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About 5 Star Rising

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/01/78

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Humboldt County Northern CA Coast
  1. One of the Pistons moves up slower than the other like it has more resistance but when you let off the piston they both fall about the same speed. I have a constant Miss or flutter throughout the RPM range I also adjusted the carbs to Max rich settings but still get the backfire. I am using ATF fluid for the oil. Last weekend I got some needles and the complete bottom seat assemly off a 72 240 that was completely rusted in rotted out including the carbs or at least they looked pretty beat. I have yet to take my carbs out and swap the needles and seats but at least now I have something to try. And now you got me thinking about the Pistons.
  2. Is this the correct door for my Early 71 240Z

    Any one else experience this issue with the door gap? Are there adjustments? Thanks
  3. Is this the correct door for my Early 71 240Z

    The passenger door fits fine and lines up but this different driver door that someone put on is weird. Wonder if the latch can be adjusted out farther somehow so the door doesn't sit so far in the door jam.
  4. Got this car a while ago, the drivers door fits weird and has a gap near the fender also seems like it sits farther inside the door jam. I have not tried to adjust the door or the fender to close the gap yet. Is there a adjustment to align doors or is this the wrong door for my car. My car was originally Blue but this door is Orange like someone has changed it. The inner part of the door looks like a 240z door compared to a 260 or 280 as far as the sheet metal cut out holes.
  5. Feels like I get to work on my Datsun every other month. Here we go again still dealing with the same issue. Not knowing the history of this car kind of sucks but the latest thing that I found may be the cause is that the prior owner possibly installed race needles in the SUs.. I cannot get rid of the miss, or tune these carburetors properly . how can I tell if I have race needles? And if I do, where can I get a set of factory needles that don't cost an arm and a leg?
  6. It looks like the prior owner had a wideband installed but he took it out. The probe and wire is still mounted to the header. The needles that are in the carbs are large (fat) compared to a cheap set I ordered and returned a few months back, didn't have any other needles to compare them to, but they were bigger than the needles that came in the cheap carb rebuild kit and the needle valves were bigger in my carbs than the ones that came in the cheap kit too.
  7. So here is a super short clip of my car running. Sounds like it's running lean with those backfires. Its not smooth and responsive when driving. I get a miss in the mid rpms also. Does this sound carb related? 240z backfire_001.mp4
  8. Apparently that video upload failed. 40 mins so far trying to upload
  9. Checking back in. For the last few months I have been building a engine on my 71 Chevelle, It is finally done and runs amazing.. I am ready to start trying to figure out this issue with the 240z again running like crap and sometimes backfiring. Technically I never rebuilt the Su's because the kit they sent me was wrong and it was of cheap quality. I cleaned the carbs, put back all the same parts and set the float levels. I'm wondering if the guy before me put race needles in these carbs or something to make them not tune correctly. Been wanting to slap another set of Su's on the car and see if the carb's are my main issue but cant seem to find a good set local and they are a grip $$$ online just for testing purposes. I will see about getting a video up.
  10. Yes 1,5,3,6,2,4.. I checked the firing order a few times. Yeah series 1 pointer is different than other Zs I have had in the past. I have a full on fuel pressure kit. I would have to mention when I got the car it had an electric FP and I had the same issues, I switched over to a manual pump and have the same issues as well. If you take one of the fuel lines off the carb and put it in a bucket and turn the motor it gets a solid stream of fuel coming out. I had purchased a 240z Su rebuild kit off the Internet that said 70-73. But when I opened it up it had smaller jet needles and needle valves than what was on my series 1. I ended up returning the kit and the guy said maybe it was for late 71 to 73. He did not have another kit to fit my 4 bolts. Not to mention the parts in that kit were super cheap and I felt like they would fail anyway even if he had the correct kit so I stuck with what I had. I remember having a problem setting my float levels though. In the video it shows turning the float assemblies upside down and setting the float levels that way, but I noticed when doing that the weight of the dry float would depress the needle valve slightly thus causing a inaccurate setting.
  11. I finally had some spare time today. I started from the beginning tuning the carbs, I found that I had them set very lean, one of them I had turned all the way in. I started with 2 1/2 turns down and went from the there, balanced them with a air flow meter,set the high rpm adjustment. The backfiring went away and I got the car running good in the driveway like I had did before when I had found 2 spark plug wires swapped. So for the first time I took the car out for a test drive. I noticed the car will stumble pretty bad around 3k and it will backfire out the tail pipe. It's like I can't get the rpm range to Rev up smooth under a load, it stumbles, misses, and backfires. I was able to pull over a few times and richen and lean the carbs to try to find a sweetspot. I could notice a difference each time I messed with the carbs, sometimes the backfire would be gone but the stumble would be worse, sometimes it would be more snappy and smooth but would backfire a ton. I'm wondering if these carbs are causing the issues. Maybe I need to really go through them again and buy a good rebuild kit. I'm using the same parts that came with my carbs because the crap that came in the rebuild kit didn't fit my 4 bolt SUs, so I just ended up basically cleaning the carbs inside and setting the float levels. Also for piece of mind I tried a new Ignition switch, Cap and rotor, and it didn't make a difference. Really wish i had a spare set of good SUs to slap on and see if the car ran good, then I would know if there was something screwed up with these 4 bolt carbs.
  12. Here's a few pics Seattle.
  13. Oh, I forgot to add there is no air cleaners on the carbs at the moment, not sure if that makes a difference. I watched the JUST SUs video and I don't think he had air cleaners on the carbs while adjusting them.
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