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joa_taste

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Everything posted by joa_taste

  1. UPDATE Well small update. So I've gotten miscellaneous parts in finally. I decided to start with finishing my coolant hoses, but since it would be in the way before I could finish that I needed to finish my turbo drain feed. Lol not going to say its ugly but its super ghetto looking. Since my feed smacked right into my passenger side motor mount I had to use brass piping to make a 90 degree lol. Anyways I finished the Oil Drain feed and did the hoses. I bought FB3s Rx7 radiator components (aluminum piping, misc. couplers and an overflow reservoir ). It worked well, I did minimal cutting on one of the aluminum pipes to make this work. I think i am going to make a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir that comes off of the Rad/Intercooler bracket. I don't want to do this until I finish doing my IC piping, since i don't want to make unwanted issues or make things harder. I snapped a quick picture, its been raining out here inconsistently so I really didn't finish much. The next thing was starting to mock up my IC piping. I went with Stainless steel since i don't have a TIG. I got two mandrel bent pipes x1 2.25" for hot side, and x1 2.5" for cold side. Im still waiting on the 2.25" mandrel bent pipe but I finished my cold side. On the cold side is where I will mount my BOV. I will weld everything at the same time once I get the pipe for the Hot side. Hopefully I will get this in today. I bought some Speedhut gauges, 4" Tach/Speedo. Which are being made and need 15-20 days to be finished? I also bought auto meter 2 5/8" Oil, Coolant, Fuel gauges as well. Figured since I need to wait so many days, i might as well do a Dash Resoration lol. So I removed my dash, lol it wasn't so bad. I thought it were going to be a lot worse TBH. I guess some guys have to drill out their last screw, but luckily I didn't have to. Looking at my interior with the dash removed makes the car look weird lol. As you can see my dash is going to need a lot of TLC. Looking over a couple of the Dash resto's Hybridz has, I think I like this one the best. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106906-yet-another-dash-restoration-new-gauges/ Its funny when you start doing swaps. When I started this I told myself I would keep the r180 diff and not do anything interior, but i guess once you get the ball rolling its easy to say fuggit lets do it lol. Hopefully by end of the week I can get that other IC pipe done and everything welded.
  2. Nice my man. I think there are different options for LS1? I'm not 100 percent sure. I wanted to do a Porsche 944 LS1 but didn't want to spend tons of cash on it lol. As for the rad support, it handles well. I did have a strut brace tho. I will need either a new one or more support up front with the JZ, eventually.
  3. Update. So I tackled a few things on my list. I don't know about you guys but when I do something new like make something, I end up running back and forth to the parts store. Luckily I live 2 minutes away from multiple auto parts stores, and a Mcfaddendales. Today wasn't so bad in that sense Intercooler brackets. So I ran to Home Depot, and stood there pondering how I would tackle this. My main focus was trying to keep the slant of the radiator, yet keeping it inside of a 28" x 14" measurement. After going over multiple options in my head, I went with an easy L bracket 72" x 6" x 3". I measured the slant of the radiator and the intercooler itself. seems to be about right. I trimmed down the L bracket to the size of the intercooler. Then I made small brackets to bolt on the radiator to the intercooler. (I should've just welded this, but it works lol). I measured where the intercooler would sit compared to hood latches, and clearance. I did have it just a hair too high so I brought it down about a half inch to get it to clear the hood. My idea here is, run two 90 degree couplers to clear the hood latches and side rails. This should put me in the right position for my piping, which I am waiting for. Next I started doing the radiator piping. If I've learned anything from doing swaps its all about saving all parts and bolts of whatever you use or have used. In this situation the hoses I had used on the L26 set up worked for the top. As for the bottom the water neck and the stock radiator feed to water neck is a bit tricky. So I need to order some aluminum piping and a few couplers. I will also buy a overflow reservoir. Gotta love the waiting game.
  4. Very nice bro! I like that you are able to use your stock exhaust system. Mine is going to be a little low lol. Hopefully! gotta get that Z running brutha. I think i am taking your advice with the gauges lol.
  5. hahaha! I know man my floor pans are the epitome of holy. Any worse and Ill be flinstoning around haha. The floor pans are definitely the next thing. Im really going for motor swap and Interior. Ive always loved a clean Interior. how did your mounts come out? you like them better flipped around? Why do you want to let go of your CD? my friend with a 240sx says thats his favorite tranny he has ever used.
  6. UPDATE*** Finally back fellas. Sorry it took me so long, the driveshaft was so much more of a hassle than I thought. Quick pic of my buddies shop here in Vegas. The red one on the far left is a complete restore 240z of a customer of his, he wants to sell it for $22k The Black one is his another 240z with the L28 N/A motor. He moved pretty quick with it, When i first seen this car a few months back it wasn't painted and not moving. The middle one is the best looking....but I may be a bit bias lol This black one is a 260z he is selling for a customer, to pay for the white one. This white one is a L28et. Pretty cool pic, figured I would snap a quick pic for you guys. Heres the driveshaft when It were out of the car. Sorry guys but the pic I took of the driveshaft assembled is kinda crappy looking I think it came out really nice, and worth the wait. Can't wait until I see how it is in action. Anyways on to the Update. Can't believe I hadn't touched this car in literally 2 months. On to the Goods, I've had this car maybe 24 hours and I've literally touched everywhere it feels lol. Im sure I've said before that I've been accumulating parts as its been in the shop. First thing I started was the Downpipe/Tomei turbo elbow. I bought a box of stainless steel misc. Mandrel bends and used two 90 degree bends. As I said earlier on this thread Its in kinda weird position on the exhaust side. Its a little tight. I taped my pipes together first and assembled the downpipe/elbow as if it were in the car. This took me a couple of tries cutting in 1/2" to 1" increments. This took me almost all day lol. Finished product I wrapped the downpipe as well since I have my clutch line so close to that area. Also my air intake is in this same area, or will be, so I want to reduce some heat. Its a little low. so I might trim this when I get to the exhaust portion, we will see It looks really low since im in the driveway and there is an incline, but its about 3 inches off the ground. My car is also Low so Im a bit afraid this might be a issue later. Next I moved to bleeding the clutch Im at a standstill on this one, I have tried many different ways trying to bleed this clutch, I've tried multiple ways on going about bleeding it. But it doesn't want to hold pressure. I first had my set up like this; Clutch master 87' Landrover > Oem hard clutch line > Custom fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (This had a lot more slack than i wanted) > Clutch slave. After thinking about distance in a power consumption point of view. I.E thinking that too much distance was between my master cylinder and slave, and maybe it would take forever to bleed I ditched this and went this route. Clutch master 87' Landrover > Banjo 10mm fitting to -3 an fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (this distance is perfect, should've done this in the first place) > Clutch slave. I was sure this would work. or atleast be easier to suss out the issues. Nothing. Im currently getting fluid from the master to the line to the slave, but im not getting any pressure. And of course there is no bleeder valve. I thought maybe I assembled the clutch incorrectly, but after putting the car in gear and not being able to move the Z makes me feel its assembled correctly. So I've put this on the back burner. Im going to hit the Saturn Sky forums and check what other people did. My worst fear is 1. the slave is faulty 2. i assembled the Slave Incorrectly. I.E having to pull the motor out to get to the interior of the tranny. Or taking the transmission off to get to the interior. It might be the Master. Anyways. Next thing I was able to tackle before the end of my day was the Throttle cable. FB3S Rx7 part. It was pretty straight forward. The time most spent was getting a firm enough grip on the line to give it enough tension to actually work. It works well. [attachment=90028:IMG_5567.jpg] So thats about where I am at the moment. My list got a little bit longer lol. Tomorrow I hope I find out the issue of bleeding that clutch. Ill choose from one of the things on the list tomorrow. -IC piping Make Brackets -Bleed Clutch (Sad Face) -Fuel Feed + Return lines -Radiator Hoses -New turbo drain feed. I've also added redoing the dash and Gauges which I don't have a Gaff Tape tab for lol
  7. UPDATE****** Sorry guys I know it seems like I haven't really posted much. Im still waiting on my cars Driveshaft to be finished, Seems like its been a life time. Im getting anxious. But really Ive just been buying parts for this thing so when I get it back, the wrenching will commence. Over the little month of it being gone, i've purchased; -3" mandrel bends stainless steel (Exhaust Piping) for the downpipe -Downpipe 1jz Flange -Tomei turbo elbow (looked at future fab, but the way the motor is i didnt know about the angle the downpipe should go. the tomei is already flanged as well.) -Exhaust wrapping. ( I think Exhaust downpipe will be the first thing i do. Not sure if i will do the whole exhaust...might as well right? Im thinking blast pipes like this would be something that would make the back of the car pop. Literally lol) Example: More than Likely won't be as big. -An Rx-7 throttle cable First Gen FB3s ( I remember reading somewhere that someone used this. I'm kind of skeptical because it looks a little short, but when i get the car back, we will see. -Intercooler. Went with a non name brand, but the measurements I needed to be precise, for it to be at somewhat an angle in front of how i have my Rad mounted. Might have my buddy do it since its already at his shop. Still wondering if I should do stainless steel or Aluminum as far as piping goes. -Flex couplers -My buddy had his old Tial BOV sitting around from his EG coupe so I bought that from him. -Lastly the AEM Standalone from Driftmotion for the 1jz. I got really lucky on this one, just on a wim looked at eBay for this. Someone bought it didn't use it, and was selling it. Really cool guy, it even came with a patch harness. Thats about it for now. Exposed did some speedhut gauges. That might be the next big purchase for this car. At first I wasn't planning to have running gauges, but thinking about it now if im going to get this tuned I will need a working speedometer/tach? plus I should want to watch over what the motor is doing since its so new I.E Oil pressure, coolant, etc etc etc.
  8. Nice! These are the ones im looking at. Definitely post some of the finished product.
  9. What gauges are those?!? They look really nice.
  10. I totally understand on that one. I will let you know. Im still at a standstill with the driveshaft. I will find out tomorrow wtf is going on, I've been eager to get it back I have a lot of parts just sitting around waiting to be installed lol.
  11. Yes!!! Lol i thought the same exact thing. It'll sit a little more to the left side when you put your car in. Looks funny but it clears. At first I thought maybe i messed up. So i looked over a few of CxRacings swaps on google, i used the hood latch as a center point for the engine bay. They too have their motor a bit to the passenger side. I think this is because of the steering rack. It'll make the Downpipe that much more fun to do lol.
  12. Hahaha i said the same thing. He uses like half a the tube on one side it looked like. And here i was thinking i used too much on mine when i switched from front to rear oil sump lol
  13. I will definitely let you know brutha. Im interested to see how the mounts rack up when its in motion. Everything is being done at a friend of a friends driveshaft shop. Hopefully they do it right do it once type deal. Don't want to go backwards on anything. Ill give you guys updates. Currently waiting on the driveshaft(Aisin Ar5) and Mustache Bar from Techno toys Man that thing is pretty interesting. Expensive but interesting.
  14. Not sure if it'll be much help to you since you're doing the 2j na-t but this guys build on youtube helped me answer some questions. When i upgrade turbo's later later down the line, im pretty sure i will rematch this. He did a 1jz vvti in a 240sx. Check it out if you have time. https://youtu.be/pFC6y3Vn5IM
  15. Sweet. If the one i used for the l26 doesn't work then ill check the champion one out. Greeko if you don't mind me asking what throttle cable you used for your swap. I've read that the rx7 fb works but I was just wondering what you went with. UPDATE So I had contacted a buddy of mine, to see about doing my driveshaft. He said he would do the whole drivetrain for me. Replace the r180 with the OBX LSD R200 that I had been working on in a previous post. Also the thought came up about welding the two driveshafts together (Aisin Ar5 to the Datsun yoke), and taking it to get balanced. By the way the buddy of mine is a nice guy, and an absolute Datsun Guru. If you're in the Vegas area and need help with anything datsun related look him up (Johnson's Automotive) Has a really nice Yellow 260z thats in pristine condition. He was talking about doing a Datsun meet every 3rd weekend of the month. First time the car has seen daylight in a couple months. It was nice to see it somewhere other than the garage. Looking over the whole area of how long the driveshaft would need to be. It doesn't look like i need to get my driveshaft extended too much, maybe 6-7 inches. If the diameter of the Aisin ar5 and the datsun driveshafts are the same all i would need to do is weld and get it balanced. But Since i don't have the driveshaft from the Aisin Ar5 as of yet, its going to be the waiting game. I did however order it online, hopefully it gets here soon. Hopefully beginning of next week. Im still wondering what EMS i should go with Apexi power fc D-jetro or AEM V2...Im really leaning towards the AEM V2. But idk, that will be the absolute last thing I buy.
  16. The radiator should work. I think I've seen people run stock Rads for this? but im not sure This is definitely on the parts list for when the car is almost done.. Or maybe when the wiring guy has the car I can buy this as a christmas present to myself lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/152021488865?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  17. True. When you really think about this its a bit scary. Yeah its something like a clamping force...Not gonna lie i hopped on top of the motor when it were mounted and gave a little jump lol. I would rather it break in the garage while im doing something dumb than on the road. Lol not saying my weight can compare to the actual motion or vibration of a full blown motor. Just had to do something to make me feel better lol. lol naw man you're pretty far already keep up the good work bro. Ive got a mishimoto radiator that i was using with the l26 when it were in. Worked well, Ill even keep it v mounted. Just have to run more Rad hoses lol.
  18. Ill probably end up doing my welding if any at the end of the swap.. See how it runs and drives first, and see if the bolts aren't up to par. I did use rated Lock bolts/washers tho. Later this week i think ill do some plumbing for radiator/intercooler. maybe try and track down a used aftermarket turbo elbow. I don't see a reason of buying it new for something im going to get rid of anyways. We shall see
  19. Theres an idea. I didn't think about that. I know these bolts i have are proven, so i didn't really think too much about it. I use the same bolts to rig heavier things at work. The only worry I would have would be interference with anything as far as the swindle arms go. When i was going to make my own mounts I found myself hitting a few things. Also true. It sits like a good 3-4 inches above the crossmember.
  20. I will look into them as well, thank you! I still need to get the part that bolts into the Aisin Ar5 before i do my measurements. As for the motor mounts there are two points of being bolted together. The one to the left is the bolt that goes to the plate on the motor to the little swindle looking thing. Then the ones to the right are from the swindle to the actual mount arms. Lastly the ones i didn't circle are the ones that bolt down to the pre-existing motor mounts on the crossmember. I used all rated bolts/nuts/washers for everything. As for the second question. yes you can tighten everything down after everything is attached (which I did) but it took a little time since space is super tight. This made it very convenient with the whole not having to take the motor out, mounts off, blah blah blah. I left the motor on the crane getting them bolted up lowered it little at a time as i tightened. After I had everything in i let the motor take all weight on the crossmember, and left a jack in the rear of the car for the tranny. All around he quality of mine were pretty nice. Its stainless so they don't rust, and it looks as if it were polished? Im not sure. I just wish the motor sat a little bit lower so I could use my Cusco Sway bar. Other than that im pretty happy with it, I think you will be too.
  21. Nice! I'll call them up tomorrow. Thanks
  22. UPDATE**** Sorry for the late reply, after much debating and head scratching on how to put this together with that. Or that together with this, I had went another route with the motor mounts. I drank the Kool aid and bought the Cxracing mounts that I didn't want to go with in the first place. Here's why. Hearing that some people have issues with their driveshafts not lining up going with homemade mounts, I decided to buy these.... With my luck Ill be one of the few lol. Maybe its just me trying to go the easy route lol. Anyways since I had prematurely cut my old motor mounts I had looked on eBay/Craigslist/Elist/Craigbay/ lol you get my drift, for a new crossmember. I actually found a decent looking one that came in from Colorado. Minimal rust. I think its funny im like anal about rust when my whole car is a rust can on wheels lol. Got the crossmember in and sanded it down with my grinder and sprayed it to make it look all new. Came out pretty good if i do say so myself. Not gonna lie, this took me forever to put back on. The washers in between the part where the tie rod took me forever to put back on. I literally tried and tried, then took a walk because i were getting pissed then came back to it. Finally after an hour i got them back on and bolted in. Definitely not something I want to do again any time soon. Didn't think to snap some pics on this since it took me forever and I just wanted to be done with it. So looking at my motor mounts from cxracing, I was bugging out for a little bit thinking that the actual mounts were flat mounted. You can see where you have to connect the part that goes to the block, and the little swindle looking thing theres a bolt that goes in between. I almost welded it lol, luckily i didn't do that. I literally had to leave everything loose until i got it in the right spot. Which was also a Bish because that motor is kinda wide in the Z bay so you literally have to have baby hands trying to tighten everything. After I got the motor in looking at the mounts they aren't bad. Welds are pretty good nice polished metal.. Only thing is the motor mounts I bought didn't come with a transmission mount. Which was the easy part lol. Its super ghetto and basic but it works. lol bolted right up. Headaches over, not gonna lie i literally made like four different mounts out of wood and just didn't like any of them. So much time wasted. Anyways the suck thing about the cxracing mounts were that the tranny was pushed back a bit too far. So i cut it lol. I wasn't trying to waste more money and time getting something offline to push the shifter like 3 inches forward. After cutting the shifter position i like the feel of the shifter. It actually feels quite natural. I like this position. Also the motor sits a little too high for my cusco sway bar to go back on.....I wasn't too happy about this. There was a moment of silence for this loss lol. This is me showing my appreciation of not being able to work anymore. Got some of the fittings in to finish the fuel set up. So i connected that, thats buttoned up. So the next thing i had on my list was switch my washers and bolts to the rbryant ones on my OBX LSD. That went by super quick and easy. Snapped a few pics before i put everything back on. Notice the size of the washers. the one on the left is the OBX washer and the one on the right is the Rbryant washer. Noticeable difference. So next i am going to switch out the R200 and put the R180 up for sale. Or just give it to my buddy and hope he makes some piping for me in exchange lol. So next on my list of stuff to do. -Intercooler -source out a used turbo elbow. There is a Downpipe I've had over the years that was for my SR20 swap...It looks like with little fab it may fit. We shall see. -Do a new oil drain feed maybe steelbraided -bleed clutch -Source out a driveshaft guy and get ready to pay 700+ im sure lol. At the moment thats the top things on my list. Its one of those kind of lists that get bigger as it gets smaller lol. "TO DO"
  23. I really really like that hood scoop. I need this in my life now lol. Thank you!!
  24. Sweet! Thanks bro I'll look into that.
  25. Update* Today I was able to get the motor into the car and in place. It looks like i could've used the stock mounts and have the shifter in a position about center of the shift hole. Lol whoops should've waited. Probably could've went with the cx racing mounts. But i kept moving the motor around a bit to see the different positions and ways I could get it, and found a perfect place for it. The shifter is all the way back in the shift position, but with this being like how its now, i like the amount of space I have in the front. Might be able to pull off using the old Rad position V mounted....Maybe....Possibly lol. Sucks tho, I must really like wasting time and effort because the only mount that I have that'll work will be the tranny mount, and yet i still want to fix it to make it fit better. So tomorrow Ill start fabbing up better mounts for the chassis. I think ill have one of my bridals go straight from the block instead of down. On an unrelated note, I was tagged on a Z pic on instagram. I fell in love with this hood scoop, does anybody know what it is?
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