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joa_taste

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Everything posted by joa_taste

  1. Yeah I've read that the common issue with these motors is the Iacv needing a cleaning. Didn't know it was such a common issue for this motor. I have yet to drive the car with this new setup of fender mirrors. Mine old ones were cheap knock offs ill have to admit, so I'm not sure how the good ones are as far as adjustability. I was able to unscrew a screw and adjust the mirrors left to right, but with these Grom mirrors they are on a swivel so they can move left, right, up, down, etc. etc. how ever you want. They are a bit higher tho, thats the only con i have about them. Yeah I know having the cell in the car is a little ahhh, but seeing other builds i've seen a few people run it this way. Plus I didn't want to have to make brackets for the fuel cell under the car. I am glad its up a lot more since its a bit aways away from the exhaust system.
  2. Thank you, the grom mirrors are really good. Bigger than my bullet style and I the mirrors are on a swivel so you can move it however you want. I can actually see behind me now. My old mirrors were cheaply made, so the difference is night and day. Im keeping the hood as is, I thought I were going to switch over to an all black carbon one. But the dent in the front i feel gives it a bit more character. Also the faded red kinda grew on me as well lol
  3. UPDATE** Nothing too crazy this go around. Just did the little list of things for myself last week. -changed FMS/Alternator Stumbled upon a tool a friend used to remove his FMS/RMS this tool is the tits. Got it at home depot for $.49, its a paint can lid opener tool doohickey thingy. lol. Anyways it worked better than a flat head for me. -Fixed headlights/turnsignals.(rewired turn signals to the OEM area, got the idea from a members thread) All this was present but since I did the swap none of the lights were working. Not using my reverse lights so I jumped them to each sides turn signals. My driver side bulb harness for the reverse light was burnt out, so I cut the old bulb harnesses out and used a universal harness from auto zone. Used the stock bezels, macguyvered the bulbs harness into the stock harness lol. -Changed over the Cell, of course I bought something a little bit bigger than the spare tire area..of course So I switched this system over, contacted my welding buddy to weld over the spare tire and mounted the cell in its new location. Sprayed the outside of the weld with some "Great Stuff Foam" and sanded it down.Rerouted wiring for sender off the T3 harness bar. And did some hardlines...almost done...Still waiting on a couple of fittings. I tell you, i should've just went steel braided. Installed a 100 micron Fuel filter, didn't have one before so its inline pre pump. -Lol okay so I put the Grom Mirrors on... I actually like them, they don't look half bad to me. Fully functional/Maneuverable. i think I'm sold on these, going to keep them on for awhile. Let me know what you guys think. -Map sensor is still in the works. My idle issue has gotten worse. After changing the Map sensor with a new one now my car turns on for a split second then turns off. Which makes me really believe its the Map sensor...or the Iacv. Heard these are common issues with needing to be cleaned. So took mine off and cleaned it. Didn't fix my issue, so I tested the 3.5 bar sensor and to my avail, I'm not getting 5v. Which tells me the map isn't even on. Ran out of time on this one, will have to go back out this weekend and track down where my buddy tapped into on the harness.
  4. Aisin Ar5's, Saturn Sky transmission, are pretty cheap or cheap(er) alternative to the r154. Just need to change out bellhousings with a xjz one.
  5. Alright. I might give them a try then. I know I need an alignment but I would hate to get one find out I need these then have to do another alignment after. Thanks
  6. Anybody ever get these? Thinking about running this on my Z. I need a bit of camber in my front and rear. Thinking of running this in front and then camber arms from T3 in the rears.
  7. Thats just a regular NRG seat I believe, they usually look like that so I'm not sure the exact model differences. They are inexpensive, just a little too high sitting for my liking, might drill a hole to make it lower on the brackets. Thank you. Will definitely post of the whole car when finished.
  8. Thanks, I've always liked the sound of surge, even tho it's bad. I did put one mirror on since I need to try and source out more bolts(the bolts are m10x1.25 reverse thread) lol wth. I put one on and it doesn't look as bad as I thought. I'll post a pic when I get the two on.
  9. Awww man. I was hoping I solved my issue if not being able to see lol. Ah well.might mess around and put them on for shiz and gigz.
  10. Ahh I know. I'm interested to see what they look like. Will keep trying to fix my side mirror on the passenger side. I just like the fact that the mirrors are fully adjustable OEM, so the quality is better than what I have at the moment. The issue with the tranny was the clutch disk being a bit too thick. It was pushing on the crank a little making it hard to turn. The disk was grinder down a bit to suffice. Still has a lot of life.
  11. UPDATE** Got my car back this past weekend. Super excited to get it back, tho I do have a few things that I need to clean up/fix before its fully drivable. Had to tow it home, but I was able to drive it around the block before pulling it back into the garage for you guys. This car feels amazing, just wants to pull pull pull. Gauges work, speedo/tach work, Tranny feels really good. Diff might have a few issues, might have to crack it open. It kinda sounds like marbles, I do remember leaking some diff fluid when i towed it from my house to my mechanic so ill do a refill it and go from there. https://youtu.be/Og-Xbfm6TDQ Basically, my car doesn't want to idle. Could be a multitude of things, could be one thing. Thinking it might be the map sensor. Here's a little list of what I need to fix next. -Alternator -Front Main Seal -Change out the silicone hosing I used for fuel lines (starting to expand) will go to steel braided, and I need a fuel filter. -Switch over the fuel cell to a aluminum cell one without foam. After a quick chat with my wiring guy about how bad the foam is in the long run, I was convinced to change over to something without the foam. Tho it will have a bit of slosh, I found one with a sump and will end up getting a surge tank in the future. When I upgrade my fuel system. Also need to do a vent out of the cell, its starting to balloon.FML -I need a new 3.5bar AEM map sensor. Maybe, my wiring guy says its a possibility that this could be faulty so I got another from Summit Racing, if its not bad Ill send this back. So waiting for that, I did some cosmetics. I had bought the retro spec wing, and put that on. Also put back on my front bumper. Not gonna lie wasn't really feeling the hood scoop for the longest time, but now that the front air dam is back on it flows. Ended up wiring the fuel level gauge to this fuel cell, even tho I'm changing fuel cells I figured pre-wiring this now I can just swap out the cell and plug & play. Wired in the boost gauge, I have one gauge port open now since i have my AEM air/fuel, water, oil at the opening where my radio would be. So I'm trying to figure out what to put there as like a place holder so it doesn't look like an eyesore. Maybe a sticker or another gauge? Wired back in the headlights, turn signals, my brake lights are being a little cooky so Ill need to look into that when i get back. I don't have them as running lights or when I push the brakes. might be a fuse, might've gotten unplugged. Kind of a weird question. But has anybody ever used motorcycle mirrors as a fender mirrors?? Sounds kinda off the wall but my roommate has a Grom and these mirrors are looking like they might work….Maybe lol. My knock off fender mirrors are starting to get on my nerves with not being able to be fully adjustable. These from mirrors are on point with its fully adjustablitiy, so I may try switching to his mirrors lol.
  12. Lol Intercooler piping is already done. Its funny because I thought he strictly does wiring, but he has a fabricator/welder and a mechanic. my mechanic let me know that everything is wired and working, everything is good except for the crank not wanting to turn over. After a short convo I let him know it definitely moves since it moved while I were changing to an aluminum crank pulley. So it looks like it could either be starter(which I doubt) or the flywheel bolts I used are a little bit too big. good news is the ECU works tho lol
  13. Yeah lemme see if I can swing by tomorrow or some time this week. They did a reservoir and I bought a billet water neck that they welded on. It does cross over the Differential/Driveshaft area, If i could go back i would've mounted my cx mounts like you did. Kinda kicking myself right now.
  14. Update. The Z is still at my buddies shop. Wiring has been on and off since there are other things that had come up. More on the mechanical side of things. But to say the least, I've got a bit of a growing list of things that; 1. I didn't do 2. I did but did incorrectly or jalf hassed lol. First, he got the clutch to bleed! Me thinking that the bore size on the master cylinder wasn't big enough was incorrect. It was the way i mounted the slave, to the side. Made it hard as crap to bleed, especially since it had no bleeder valve. As weird as it is, it has the tubing for one but not the actually valve. So he remounted it upwards, and drilled a inlet for a bleeder valve. Pic below. With that said, he made a new tranny mount out of the stock holes, said since it was out he thought it better to make a solid mount. So i ditched the Tomei elbow(Now 4sale) and went with a future fab turbo elbow. With that said he deleted the pre-exhaust thingy over the top of the turbo/manifold. Then did a new turbo back down to my exhaust. Which I wanted the old school early 2000's look of big canister slanted up. Which I feel kinda compliments the build a bit. Also in the engine bay they redid my cooling system with a swirl pot. He said since my radiator it would be a b* to keep cool so he added the swirl pot. Being its the top of the cooling system now. He also switched my top inlet to the Rad from drivers side to passenger side, making a patch on the old inlet. And as you can see aluminum IC piping. Before. After.
  15. Just a small update. Dropped a couple sensors off to my wiring guy; AEM air intake sensor, AEM electronics MAP sensor, and exhaust. I went with an Apexi muffler. I also went with a retro spec wing, I got it used so it was pretty cheap. I almost went with a chassis mount wing, but I feel like it would've been too much. Heres some pics.
  16. Found old pics to explain to explain better. This hose. Goes here Yeah its something apart of the Heater Matrix like you asked earlier. He says people make the mistake of plugging both sides up, and run hot all the time. When I upgrade turbo's later I will upgrade to that coil pack.
  17. Off the top of my head. He said ditch the big plenum on the exhaust side over the turbo, it'll free up some horses and its like a second muffler. Which ill need to do new IC piping on the hot side. Since I'm going with this we will be going with aluminum 3", over the stainless steel 2.25. With that said ill just do the whole system 3" aluminum piping. Re-route the driver side water hose to the passenger side. He said usually people just plug this up and wonder why their cars run so hot. Its the hose the routes coolant to the head. He is switching the BOV to the exhaust side as well said it's better on this side. He recommended upgrading the coil system to an Audi system. I.E it won't be 3 coils and 3 wires it'll all be "individual wires" He showed me a Nissan s14 he had integrated the wiring for that system, and it was stout. It was like a twist cable connecter that the customer can switch out for the stock one if he wanted. He said something about the Jzx100 1j's ignition being crap. He also said he's not going to use the jzx100 base file from the AEM?? He is saying to use a different file for this motor. He's making a list of what he's going to do, I will post when I have this.
  18. Small update. I haven't forgot about you guys, I've been waiting for awhile to get my car wired at the shop. They've been giving me the run around for two months about waiting on this, or that with no progress whatsoever. Kinda dumb since I have history with taken multiple cars there, and I feel it's not too hard or time consuming if you know what you're doing. With that said I know people are busy and I was happy to pick my car up. Anyways I found a more reputable shop known for Jz swaps in multiple different chassis down at the speedway. Upon dropping it off they were already trying to show me basic upgrades their other cars have done, and recommended a few things I should do with my set-up. So hopefully I'll be posting something soon when it comes to pics and info. I'm upset I've wasted 2 months of waiting, but glad I intervened before 2 months turned into something like 5 months.
  19. Thanks bro, it took a lot longer than I had thought it would. I would snap pics of the T3 harness but the car is at my wiring buddies shop. I'll snap some when I get the car back. Here's the link for the harness on T3. They have some pretty legit pics on there. Probably the easiest upgrade I've done to the car lol. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/240z-260z-and-280z-racing-harness-bar
  20. UPDATE**** So I finished the dashboard, it still has a few blemishes that aren't so noticeable.. So I stickers over them so they weren't eyesores to me lol. Kinda cheese, I know, but it worked. This took a bit longer than I intended, but all in all it looks a lot better than it did. Im pretty happy with the way it came out. Sorry to repost pics guys, just wanted to show what the first to last pic looks like in comparison. I ended up going with the speedhut gauges that a few members have gone with. 4 1/2" For my center console gauges, I went with Attometer Oil, Fuel, Water. I think its 2 5/8" Came out pretty nice. Last post i did was the bride seat. Which came with a harness, so I ended up going with a Techno Toys Tuning racing harness bar. Nice in quality, T3 always has good stuff, and very easy to install. You just take out the OEM bolts that the original seat belts were connected to, and screw in the T3 bolts. So I dropped my car off to my buddies shop for wiring, a few days ago. I've finally been able to post here, sorry for the delay. Last thing I did was worked on the whole " Not being able to shut my hood fully" issue. I just bought some hood pins and did a quick fix. With that being said, I should've done the same thing Seattlejester did with the flipping his CXracing mounts backwards. Putting the motor lower than mine is by a few inches. Anyways, I hope the next post I put here will be a running motor. After I get the car back there are a few things i need to wire. Like the gauges, and finish the exhaust system. That's it for now, hope to post in a few weeks.
  21. Nice. I like that idea, but idk if I have enough space either where my IC couplers are.
  22. UPDATE* So i've been doing a few things here and there but haven't really posted. I figured me posting a bulk of the things I did over the past week, compared to me posting daily would make more sense. That way you guys could see more of things finished, over things that were still in the works. Maybe less of me talking and just letting the pictures do it for me? lol Don't want to seem longwinded. Lets start with the piping. I got that done and welded about a week ago, just had been waiting on the Tbolt clamps. This is self explanatory, I later ended up seeing what clamps would give me hood clearance issues. See below. Might do a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir, might not. Lol we shall see, ill come back to this later. Next I ended up getting a cheap Bride seat, so I took the bracket it came with off and made my own bracket. No slider but it seems like its a perfect fit for me. I think OEM seat will go on the passenger side. Next I ended up getting the ZL1 camaro hood scoop (I just had too it looks so good lol) Got it, Riveted it on, cut accordingly, and of course still clearance issues. The white tape again of course lol. I had to cut a little bit, which sucks but looks cool. I will get hood pins instead of use the stock one. Was thinking about doing a Hydraulic mechanism for the hood hinges, but X'd that idea. Looked around a bit online for someone who might have done it before, still no one? On to the dash, this has been an on-going project for me lol. Its a little bit more involved, which I don't mind because its taking forever for the speed hut gauges. Just want to make it look right, I think if i don't get this right this time I will bondo the whole entire dash. I think i can do it without doing that but we shall see. At this point, i am on my 3rd time bondoing and mostly working on the dash for now. Trying to get it as perfect as I can since this will be the focal point of my attention while driving the car lol. Side note, has anyone taken seats out of the datsun and put them back in? How do you get to all the bolts? I can do the front two bolts, but not the back am I missing something here?
  23. I haven't really touched that part yet. My tuner swears by it when it comes to this motor, so I picked it up. Came with the patch harness, Ill let you know how it goes.
  24. Dude that looks sweet, interesting way to go about this over doing bondo. How long did this take you?
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