Jump to content
HybridZ

lorenzo

Members
  • Posts

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lorenzo

  1. Just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread and let everyone know that I have finally solved the problem! Used a1983 280zx alternator (AC Delco) remanufactured Wiring as recommended by Zcarcreations Charge light seems to be working well and turns off after starting it. Getting 14.55 volts under load. I will not get much chance to drive it though as winter is just around the corner
  2. Thanks everyone, I think after 4 voltage regulators I will try installing the 1983 280zx alternator and wiring it like zcarcreations recommends.
  3. NewZed, thank you for the link. I will look into that connection under the passenger seat. This seems to be a strange one. Would this continue to be a concern if I were to do the swap with a ZX alternator?
  4. Thank you for this detailed write-up chickenman!
  5. Grillhands, did you use the rewiring write-up from Atantic Z? That site is no longer working for some reason.
  6. Chickenman, does that alternator require any mods to fit in the same spot as the original alternator?
  7. I have been away from the car for a bit and it is still not charging correctly. I do not have a Floor Temp fuse in my car, that slot is empty.
  8. 1976 280z coupe changed battery (it was bad), voltage regulator, belt and alternator (which tested bad). The car still fails to charge, I am reading about 12.6 under no load and about 12.3 or 12.4 under load. Car is Still hesitating and bogging at stops. Any thoughts on what I should look for, maybe bad wiring?
  9. I would like to thank everyone for all the great advice, I am feeling a little better about what happened. Hopefully, I will have it fixed soon, it is such a tight spot to work in!
  10. I was replacing the temperature switch on my 1976 280z tonight and I must have gone too far and cracked the housing. When I put everything back together there was some antifreeze squirting out around the sensor. I cleaned it up and found there was a hairline fracture Is this a lot of work and time consuming to change? I have never done it before. I checked Motorsport and they do not even carry the part. I was thinking of sealing it with a gasket sealer but not sure if that would even work. Any ideas? Where to buy? Thanks
  11. Hi Phantom, are you referring to the Carbon Canister? If you are then yes it is still original.
  12. Okay something new, I checked the wires and resistance is good on all 6 wires. When I start the car and leave it idling and revving there is no bogging whatsoever, even left it for about 30 minutes. This tells me it is not temperature related. It is only when I start driving the car that the bogging starts, could this be a problem with the AFM? Possibly the flap?
  13. I tried this only one had a bit of darkness the others were clean and dry looking. I am wondering if there is a problem with my carbon canister, or spark plug wires, I will check their resistance tomorrow.
  14. I will try this when I get the chance. Another thing I noticed is when I open my gas cap there seems to be little if any pressure released, I remember it would usually pop and exhale a lot of air when I would open it before.
  15. Yes It drives well for about 5 minutes then it starts acting up, like it is starving for fuel. That is why I changed the Water Temperature Sensor, I thought that was the culprit. Changed the Temperature gauge sensor too while I had the fluids out of the rad.
  16. I can't seem to figure out what is causing my car to bog, it starts out driving great then a short time later it starts hesitating stalling and fading out. Things I did after having it looked at by a mechanic: Fuel pump, used one so hopefully I did not get a bad one. Fuel Pressure Regulator, this was a new part. Things I have tried thinking it may help: Fuel filter Water Temperature Sensor changed 3 fuel injectors to new ones, had a difficult time removing the old ones to help get the fuel rail off when doing FPR. I had them so I said why not use them. Anyone had a similar issue and solved it? I was thinking I may just install an aftermarket fuel pump. Is the fuel dampener required if I do?
  17. Thank you great post will try this if above simpler techniques do not work. No unfortunately I was not aware at the time I did it that it would be that important to bench bleed with this car. Clutch and car drove worked well yes. Clutch has maybe 5000 miles on it?
  18. Thanks will try this and adjusting the rod further as suggested by others.
  19. Yes I have inter changed them even had 240 seats in my car for several years and when I changed them I mixed up drivers and passengers seats. The rails at the bottom are more important to note when installing them to the seats.
  20. May try gravity bleeding, should I be leaving the master cylinder cap on or off when doing this?
  21. Yes they are new parts, even replaced the rubber pressure hose that attaches to slave cylinder. I have looked for leaks and don't see any. I replaced awhile back because at the time my stick was very wiggly and I thought replacing the master and slave would solve the issue, turned out I needed to replace the plastic boot at the bottom of the stick which I have done and it is now nice and tight. The fork moves back and forth when I get some pressure in the system. If I remember correctly the clutch pedal should be fairly tight when pushing down, mine feels spongy and lacks pressure.
  22. Okay I am going a little bonkers trying to figure this out. I replaced the Master and Slave cylinder, bled the clutch via the slave cylinder's bleed valve with the two person method and I am still not getting good pressure. Putting the car into gear when parked and running is difficult and putting it into rear gear causes grinding. Any ideas? How would I know if the slave or master could be creating the problem on this specific vehicle?
  23. Are you certain this is not for a 260z? I have a metal 240z and 260z front bumper and the 260z bumper is about an inch wider on each side.
  24. Oh no, not this again lol! Buy the wheels you like and can afford. If you take good car of them and drive with care they will last you for years regardless of the brand
  25. Those are Performance Challenger Wheels, located in Australia. You can still order them, they come in 15x8 with -10 offset and a15x7 +9 offet if I remember correctly.
×
×
  • Create New...