eh?

While the aem seems expensive it already has a lot of "uprgades" built in. Boost control, wideband feedback, nitrous control/meth control, MAP, etc are all built in. It's all about what you want. It's doesn't make sense to buy the nistune and then $500 on a EBC, $200 for a 2step, $XXX for a nitrous/meth controller. Nistune vs. pfc I'd rather have the nistune But nistune vs aem.. 100% aem. Why? The aem has built in boost cut and lean AFR protection (unofficial but it's there). Those two will save an engine.

Neo has traction control solenoid, black CAS, looks to have a dull plastic upper timing belt cover vs the R33 shiny metal cover, badge-less spark plug cover. noted the late late late S2 RB25 will also have a black CAS.

Use the white wire going to coil #1. It has always worked well for me with my cheap actron timing light and on the dyno where they verified timing with a $$$ snapon light. I've been on two dyno jets and they were able to pick up rpm with it.

I had the gm boost solenoid but now I have the 35 series mac valve. I would recommend the mac valve for a number of reasons. The mac valve is cheaper and you don't need to buy a connector, just splice it. You can use barb fittings with the mac valve, the fitings on the gm solenoid are a lot smaller and are not barbed. Also a lot of other EBC makers use the same mac valve in their kits, including aem. sorry for going ot

Get an aem ems. It's been working great for me the past 4 years. Just make sure you get the aem cas disk. Has wide band o2 closed loop, internal & external data logging, built in pwm boost control, etc etc.

Have you come across different pfc's for the S1 and S2? Probably not because there's just one for the R33 RB25. Well there's really two, the standard and the "Pro" version. Though I think the pro was discontinued way before the standard.

Is the avgas available to the public?

Have them here http://www.rbforums.org/ign.html Easiest way to tell is if there an ignitor at the rear coil pack cover it's a Series 1. S2's have integrated ignitors.

Seems very low for a GT42R. But you said its not tuned,not a very smart idea to run that much boost with the pfc base tune.

Yea the first time I saw that was about 13 years ago . I can't believe it's still going on. Oddly enough I don't feel sorry for the guy, I'm sure a settlement could have been done a long time ago. It's a case of David vs Goliath but both are running for profit businesses and I really have a neutral position on the case. I always root for the little guy but Nissan's my Favorite manufacturer

Most likely but I'm concerned with the FSM hosting. Just curious, did something happen in the past with copyright issues & Nissan?

Hey guys just want you to know I've created a website with Part numbers for RB engines and transmissions. Let me know what you think : http://www.rbforums.org/3.html Linked up Hybridz of course

Keep in mind we are talking about 500whp. I agree the RB26 is the superior motor for big power. True the RB26 head flows better with the higher valve lift,duration and diameter. However we know the RB25 can make 500whp on stock cams so that point *imo* is moot. Both the RB25 and RB26 have cast pistons, both do break we all know. either one I'd be looking at forged internals for longevity. RB26 rods are thicker but have you ever heard of RB25 rods breaking? Rod bolt upgrade needed on both. There is a RB25 on FA that supposedly makes 697whp on the stock bottom end. But for how long? RB26 Stock twins aren't going to make 500whp, neither are the maf's, and injectors. RB26 has the advantage of a chipable ecu, but who really uses one rather than a pfc? The RB26 best advantage (in the later RB26's) is the longer crank collar. But then it has the disadvantage of requiring the sump mod and requiring the RB25 tranny. (unless you wan that extra work of modding the 4wd xfer case) My point is at that level one really isn't going to be that much easier than the other. But the RB26 will prevail at higher levels.

Please explain how.

How did you weigh it?