GrommitZ

Here's a link to a diagram if you have a '79-'83 E12-80 280zx distributor. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Hope this helps.

I believe most people just allow more air through with the throttle plate angle adjustment screw and rotate the TPS sensor accordingly.

The 300zx/Wolf ecu doesn't properly control the 280zx aac valve. Even if it did, the stock 280zx idle control system uses non intercooler air for idle control. Your source of air for idle control should come from the intercooler outlet, not the turbo compressor inlet or outlet(the stock 280zx use the compressor outlet because it was designed for low boost, non intercooled situations). If the idle control is improperly hooked up, you may be causing a boost leak, allowing air to be recycled and reheated by the turbo. In another case, you may be allowing some compressed, uncooled air to bypass the intercooler. Either case is trouble for engine and the turbo. Not only could you have detonation, but you could be over spooling your turbo. "Who is it? Dave's not here".

If it isn't the TPS, check for water condensation under the distributor cap.

Hi Yasin, I'm unclear about your confirmation using starting fluid. Do you mean that the engine started once you sprayed the starting fluid into the intake manifold? Have you checked to see if the plugs got wet? I hope you figured it out. Maybe you should double check your connections to the alternator, since that's when the starting problem started.

I agree with Evan. My guess is that your alternator brushes are worn. I bet you were driving at night because headlights will drain a battery quickly. Did you notice your headlights dimming on the road before the car died. If this is the case, a charged battery should be good enough to get you home in the daytime.

Good Luck! I'll be sure to reread your 14 Day's post for inspiration. I remember how much you accomplished in so little time.

The Bimmer driver knowingly cut off the bus, forcing the bus driver to brake to avoid a collision. I know what anyone in Aux's S&W Sigma thread would have done if they were the bus driver.

Looks Beautiful! I know the upcoming Willow Springs track event must be motivating you.

Thanks for the update! Unreal. I'm very glad you found the problem, for you and everyone here. I was considering the idea of removing the ignition lock.

Wow! I'm glad you're OK. That had to be scary. Edit: I see you just answered the questions I had. Maybe the acceleration aided in the key lockup.

The video says it normally run's low 10's so maybe for that or faster. I'm not saying I know or believe that he's running NOS one way or the other, but I and other's in this post believe it can be done w/o NOS. Regardless, few people have posted 10's with their Z's, NOS or not.

I think this car is an awesome sleeper. I don't think anyone here would predict that this car could click off a 10. If the '76 ecu can drive eight 45lb. injectors at 80% duty cycle like the l28et, it can flow enough fuel. The internal cross section of the l28et afm is small, but it is still larger than the t3 turbine inlet. Did anyone notice that it is installed after the intercooler?This car reminds me of the movies "Breaking Away" or "Cool Runnings".

Maybe you can use a heater hose, with one end against your ear, to narrow down the source of the noise. You can allow try spraying starting fluid near suspect areas. If the idle increase, you know you have a vacuum leak nearby.

There's a screw on the ecu that control's the aac valves modulation and thus the idle. Turn it counter clockwise, but just a little. If you turn it all the way counter clockwise, you'll enter the diagnostic select mode. You might also want to check for vacuum leaks.