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jsausley

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    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Well, we can't run slicks - TW limit is 180. Really the only way to squeeze more lateral grip is to go wider. We're running 16x7 Rota RBs right now with 225 width tires. I'd like to step up to 245 or 255 if possible. Fender clearance is NOT an issue, but spring clearance is. Also, this car has a 3.70 rear end with a stock 4-speed so there is a minimum size that we can use before we start hitting the rev limiter on the straights.. right now the car tops out at about 126-128 MPH. Any smaller wheels and we'd drop that down too much.
  2. This is a "ChumpCar" enduro racer.. I'm having so much trouble with finding wheels that will fit. Here's what I'd like http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-race12.htm These are light, not super expensive and look decent. They come in 4x114.3 17x9 E+23. Fender clearance is NOT an issue, the car is about to undergo a custom home widebody job. No big deal here. But spring clearance is an issue. The car has MA offset control arm bushings front and rear for additional camber and Tokico HP springs/struts, so it's lower than stock. We've also notched the strut towers for a bit extra camber. I don't think this wheel will fit. I'm showing a necessary backspace of <4.2 inches to clear our spring and these wheels have a backspace of 150mm, or 5.2 inches. I also found the Rota RBX on their website but it seems like no one stateside stocks these wheels. They're only available on the UK website. The trouble is that NO ONE makes a fairly inexpensive wheel that fits the Z anymore from what I can tell, all the wheels now have positive offsets and we need an even or negative offset to fit the Z. I almost don't even care what it looks like as it's for a race car, but they have to be 16x9 or 17x9 and they have to fit WITHOUT spacers (I'm not comfortable running spacers on an endurance race car that will be out on the track for 2 hours at a time for a total of 24 hours). Any suggestions on where to go now? I've found some wheels but they're all $500+ per corner.. the car is only supposed to cost $500, so I'd rather not drop that much. Thankfully, wheels are "open" on the OBCCWS rules - I guess they figure if anyone is dumb enough to show up and race a $2000 set of wheels that probably will get scuffed and damaged, they don't care.. lol. Budget is in the <$250/each range. (TDM and Rota both fit this but from what I can tell both wheels are questionable fits. And yes I have searched..for the past three days! Even went through the 40-page wheel thread, but most people there either have $500+/each wheels or are running spacers. Any suggestions?
  3. Need both front turn signal assemblies. Can just cut the wires if including the bulb sockets (Which would be nice). Sold ours for $50 on here but now want to make street legal again, so as close to that price would be great. PM or email me at jsausley@gmail.com
  4. We replaced the suspension on the '73 240Z today. We installed Tokico Illumina Adjustable-5 struts with Tokico springs. Part numbers 5020 for springs. We've only attempted to reinstall the fronts so far because we encountered an issue. During reassembly we noticed a major alignment issue between the transverse link and the compression rod (both sides of the car). It appears that the strut assemblies are far longer than stock and therefore are pushing the transverse links down at an angle even when bolted to the strut towers up top. We checked all of the part numbers and we believe the struts and springs to be correct. We cannot diagnose the issue other than the fact that we think the assembly is too long. We're wondering if the rubber stops at the top of the strut assembly are too thick? I'm not sure. I've searched all of the forums and googled everywhere for this and I found nothing. There were people have trouble with Tokicos but it was always related to the ride, bump steer, too high, too low, etc. Nothing like this. I've attached some pictures. Thanks for any help.
  5. Thanks from tech help from Motorsport Auto we did realized that about the CR and are using flat pistons. The cam we ordered is a racing cam from Comp and it can be used with the mechanical fuel pump. I found out where I can buy all of my carb parts from Z Therapy so we'll be doing that. Thanks for the info guys.
  6. Thanks! I found a place to buy the fiber insulators. Does anyone know of a place to get new throttle/carb linkage? We can probably use the set that came off of our car but it's not in the best shape, I'd rather get a new set if possible.
  7. Thanks for the info. Where can I find those carb bushings, if you have any idea?
  8. Hey guys. Hope to get some answers here for our race car engine... We took our L24 out of our car and are putting an L28 in. It's a non-turbo from a 1978 model. It has been rebuilt. It was an EFI engine but we're changing over to SU carbs. Trying to figure out what we need to do with throttle linkage, fuel rail and fuel pump. We swapped to a P90 head and so we need to run a mechanical fuel pump, yes? We have the mechanical fuel pump from our L24. I don't remember what kind it is (I'm not at the shop now) but it is relatively new, definitely has been replaced by the OO before we bought the car. There should be no problem using the cam-driven mechanical fuel pump yes? Throttle linkage/fuel rail: We have the standard N33 (I think is the number) intake with SU carbs, domed top (not flat tops). Is the fuel rail off of the L24 usable and is it compatible? It has some extra bits which appear to be smog or cold start or something. What's the best way to get rid of those? This is a race car engine so we are not concerned with any of that. Finally should we use the stock L24 fuel rail and throttle linkage? I found this picture: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=8745 Is that equipment fabricated or is there place to buy the nice fuel rails and linkage? Also what kind of bushings are those (orange bushing between the SU carbs and the intake)? I don't have anything like that for our car and I noticed all of the SU pics on here have them. Here's another pic of a great looking setup that I found on this website. The intake and linkage that we have is full of smog and other crap that we don't need. I'd love to clean it up to look something like this. Just looking for some options on where I might go to find this stuff. http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj160/Dayz240z/31OCT2008014.jpg Looking for a source for parts that we may need to get this thing operational. Thanks so much for any help. I tried to search as best I can but I'm looking for some in depth info related to our build and I couldn't find anything.
  9. He and I are in discussion already. Thanks for coming in my thread and trying to buy it though.
  10. That's exactly what I am looking for but I found a set on ebay and bought them, hopefully he sends them, but if not I'll come back here.
  11. Not the P-90A.. looking for one complete with rockers and all. Shipped to NC. Anyone got a spare?
  12. Yeah, what the topic title says... I'm installing an R200 CLSD into my 1973 240Z and I need the stub axles that will work with the conversion using the stock halfshafts. I searched but couldn't find any that were being sold separately. PM me if you have any info. I'm located in NC and will pay to have them shipped.
  13. I was wondering if someone here had an assembly/rebuild guide for the SU carbs, or could point me toward a location where I might find one. I'm sure this is the best place to ask. I couldn't find anything more than a very basic overview. I searched but couldn't find anything here either. Thanks!
  14. Chump Cars start with a $500 car but they never stay that way. Some of the people at the events have between $15-20k invested in their car. It's cheaper than most forms of racing but it's still not cheap. JMortensen - I found your thread on the differentials ( http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ ). Exactly which cars came with a LSD-equipped R200? It was just the late 87-89 300ZX Turbo, isn't that right? Would you say that LSD is necessary for a 240Z track car and if so, what's the best way to go about getting it? It seems like a much bigger headache than we originally thought... Looking at the installation guide it sounds like the R180->R200 swap is easy, but it's much more complicated if your R200 is an LSD version.
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