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munters

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Everything posted by munters

  1. I'm running a crane and it works perfect.
  2. It sounds all nice and good but the dwell is automatic and this prevents it to be powerfull. it has a week sparc. OK for stock engines but not good enough for modified. I had to ad a crane multispark with a stronger coil. Crazy expensive in the end but now it works.
  3. The head is important in a build and I think rebello asks like 2200 for the head porting with bigger valves and 3500 for the stroker kit... But with that you will have more then 60hp.
  4. I agree it looks way better then red. I don't understand this idea with red parts at T3. The color and the logos everywhere is the reason I would not buy from T3. Cool stuff but...
  5. Are you also doing asymetric design in the future like the europe h4 and not silent beam design?
  6. Do you know if the jenvey heritage (DCOE like) would fit incl. an airfilter (induction "noise") otherwise I would not pass inspection and change the head every 2 years would be crazy.
  7. When I went to the Switzerland "tüv" they gave me a chance to buy a second complete brake kit and have it strength testet (until it brakes apart) this test would have costed 2k$. Maybe something like this could be done. And the distance plate I covered with muffler paste and painted it so you can't see it.
  8. Drive one and you will know. I have as well 2 muscle cars. Its just another league.
  9. When you buy the Fast Ignition box you will have a install Manual, I made it exactly the way they say it and it works. The only thing I added was the tacho Adapter from MSD (I already had its I think 8920) But If I remember correctly, "distributer to the Coil" goes to "FAST from Distributor" and "FAST to coil" goes "to coil".
  10. With 16x7 +4 and 225 50 rub on the right valance tip, clear inside and back with stock spring. 205x55 all clear.
  11. Thanks for the answer but I don't find this guys at the carb. The only i can find are always those guys. and If I find a screw through version then without idle or for the other side of the carb. Marcel
  12. Go for it My story was similar. 28 years in my garage and 3 times mooving (hawy rotted). 2 years of restauration (tons of money in parts) and 2 years of driving I would do it again and i will never sell it. Love to drive it. I wish you not luck, but a lot of will pation and partner/friends understanding.
  13. A question where did you find the throttle lever with a hole (screw through) and idle adjustement for the left carb side? Thanks Marcel
  14. I guess you will have a "hot" cam. I would start with w50 and vf tubes from keith frank at yahoo dcoe group. W50 is for avacuum below 19hg. Otherwise it would be a hypojet26 alsi from keith. Im running his jets and they are incredible better then weber jets. Grüsse aus der Schweiz
  15. There was a chart with min max flow for all heads. I think braap or blake did it. Search is your friend.
  16. I would fix the cause and not putt a band-aid. Change the MC. I installed a bigger clutch MC and changed it finally because of a to hard pedal for my wife and addressed the cause(wrong throw out bearing) learned my lesson...
  17. But not oem like like this one...
  18. Onether point. The bigger the mc the more force needed for the same pressure. Why did you go with a 1inch mc and stock brakes?
  19. I peronally would not cut so low. More meat underneat gives more styrdiness. I would keep 2 inches... just my opinion.
  20. Why should someone go back in time? Maybe just my opinion.
  21. Its quite a bit to know. Depending on your vacuum level at idle tells you how many progression holes you need. Is your ignition correct, valve gap correct, fuel level correct, then you start to fiddle wirh your carbs. The second question do you want to go the weber way (then read the carb section) or modern way (then go to the yahoo dcoe group).
  22. Rear defogger repair kit or frostfighter.com
  23. I wonder why nobody tries the jenvey Heritage ?
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