munters

Hello Nils This Paper was written for the Original owner of this paper (the handwritten name you took at least off on top of the first page). He did not publish it but gave the original to me. I made a pdf and gave it to you without asking him if i am allowd to. (I have to live with that.) But publishing it and putt your www. JDMJunkies . ch on it without asking me is wrong! I can not allow you to keep it online without the permission of the original owner. Thanks Marcel

Oh now I just saw, its not the back case... uups verget what I just said. You have the metall balls and springs out ? And something else. I do have a Original typewriter paper (from the 80s or so) how to rebuild the FS5C71A trans. I could make you a copy if you want.

I just replied at jdm The problem is at the back there are a few "Distanzscheiben" shimms between the rear bearing and the "Flansch" they get stock at the "verzahnung" If you hammer it out you will brake the shimms and need tou have them made in pcks of 25 pcs. You can ask me why i know I still have some left if you need them later

Ok finally I passed. I did change the Jets, retarded the Ignition and especially put a Air Box with a hose connected to the smaller radiator support hole (just 2") The mix of that brought me to 170hp and the rest I blocked the max throttle (underneat a piece of carpet nicely hidden) Attached is the final Dyno Value up to 4680 rpm because it stayed there up to 7000. Original was 120 DIN Hp and they accepted the 140 HP (+20% max. is allowed). The Brakes I changed as well back to Drum. The noise was also a good thing, because the measurements are taken at 80% of the max HP RPM value (in my case 80% of 4020rpm = 3216rpm) I passed at 74dB (max 74).

I know your feeling when a package arrives Remember http://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/lsd-r180-sti-out-output-flange-conversion-stub-axels 150$ less

You are welcome.The A type can handle the power. My engine has 270 bhp. Im from Zürich and I even didn't know about the Meeting. Where and when is it?

I would not go with the Odori meters The Z ones look better in my opinion If you dont want troubles go with the L24. at the MFK they will check the Engine Type and give you headake to pass with the L24 in the Typenschein... The differential ratio is weird for a CH Car. you're right 3.9 was normal as far as I know ( I also had it). I did the rebuild and had a clonk with the ring gear play on the higher side, rebuild it again and had whine with play on the lower range. to me it looked like a trial and error way. Finaly I went with a Subaru R-180 with the ouput flange from Silvermine (350$). The parts for the FS5C71A are not easy to find but SWMotorsport.co.au in Australia has them all (750A$ in parts for a complete rebuild with all synchron rings, seals and bearings) In the US there is Datsunparts.com more or less the same price but a bit more complicated to deal with. Or Lou mondello the pope of the 71A in Australia. All that to say, rebuild the 71A is nearly as expensive as a C-Box on ebay plus rebuild parts. I went with the 71A because of the gear ratio. I like the long first gear up to 80km/h Hope this helps

There is a transparent protection undercoat in the wheel wells. The rest will stay the way it is and I will inspect it on a yearly base to repair any "chipoffs". There is epoxy Primer everywhere (inside, outside, underbody)

Thanks to you NW240z and to all of you You helped me really with this one. the Z community is great

Thanks NewZed good idea... Changed

When I upgradet to the Disc Brakes I trashed those two. Does someone have them? Left and right. 240Z Thanks Marcel

Yes It could and I have 2 sets of round tops but then it would not be aprooved this way. (Police could always stop me and have it retested.) I love the triples. Actually I fall back to my teenage age when I drive it now after nearly 3 decades of having it disasmbled in the Garage. I love it even more to drive then the V12 Espada (It runs also better not just the sound)

I do have the numbers matching engine in pcs. and another one in the shed for 30 years maybe this one runs ... Above the 50% more HP they would have to test the body deforming coeficient what ever this means and involves. but for shure costly. I just try to not go this route. Roger Those guys are quite often petty minded. 3 inspectors came to see the car and found it is well restored and so on.... but my inspector did not have any reaction. Just rules and figures. Luck and bad luck is always part of our life.

At the moment im still at the beginning of tuning. Float level, idle jet main jet. When this is more or less ok i will buy the Hypojets and use a wideband

Time passes so quick and Im not a good writer so I guess I just add some Pics. The cable installation is not Painless at all. Build a tool to straighten the brake lines Then the dampening everywhere Rebuild the diff Rebuild the transmission Installed the leather interieur and dash Take some time off Installed the rear end Installed the engine and front axle at the same tine (sorry blurry pics) You can see the yellow battery it's a LiFeYPO4 battery (Lithium Ferrum Yttrium Phosphate) I love it. Extremly powerfull. Take some time off again At the moment I am at the Carb tuning stage. a lot to read and learn because the last time I tuned the carbs is 29 years ago with this car (don't remember that much). End of installation pics will fellow.

Madkaw I will update my build tread (me lazy bum with the build tread) and post it here when done. This is the build tread with some more pics http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102748-build-after-24-years/page-4?p=1167828 I finished the restoration and this was my first show up at the MFC/TUV/state inspection after 28 years without registration. The only difference is in Switzerland they are quite picky. For example I have to go from stage 4 rear disc upgrade back to drum break or have it testet by an official government test center (costs 1500$) because I don't get a form signed and aprooved by nissan. The inspector didn't like the triples eather (not factory original) so he wants to know how much hp the engine makes with them. If it makes to much i have to do the same kind of test like for the brakes but depending on how much more it makes. (20% more is alowed) between 20% and 40% the test costs are around 2.5K$ (If I would keep the rear disc it would be 1500$ less) above 50% the cost would be in the range of 5K$ to 15K$. theoretically I have to do the test just once and then it would be written in the vehicle registration paper.... "triple Carb setup with 180bhp" or something like that.

Thank you all for your thoughts Exhaust / intake noise is 5 db to high as well I will start with smaller jets, less Timing advance set, set the throttle opening at 90% max, loosen the valves by 0.05mm, set the rev limiter to 6800, install an Airbox and restrict the exhaust. Then I will go on a Dyno to see where I am. Next step restrict the carbs. I have to find a non visible way (internal before the flange or make my own casket) This is really cool from all of you

No its an L28 274 BHP with triple 45 DCOE and cast header

How could I cut non visible 100hp ? The car needs to pass a dynosession done by the government aprooved dynoshop. (180 SAE HP max.) Are there any inlays/inserts available to choke down the ported inlet channel (cylinder head)? Choke down the tripples? Block the throttle to 50% max (to easy to see) Do you have any ideas? Thanks

CuNiFer I guess not CU

I did finish the install of the MSA Kit and it works fine. You have to shorten it by 20" then it even retracts the belt all the way back now. The seat can be full in the back and the angle to the back as well (most seating space) The other side I just let hang over the trans tunnel. Hope this is understandable.

Those parts inside the mark Im looking for

As mentionned in the topic title im Missing the front and rear small middle pc and the back corners for the Windows trim

The reason to bother with it are your 2 points. 240z corrodes and 280zx you see it before failure. Does someone know how the floats work as described in the first post?

Does someone know how the caps work (Electric cables)? There is no resistance change when the floats are moved. Is it capacitiv? How to connect them in a 240z to use the dash brake light? In the 280zx Diagram one conector goes to ground and the other conector goes to the hand brake switch and dash lamp. This would all make sence if the floats would make contact to ground but they dont? Thnanks for youi input. Marcel