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DoctorMuffn

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About DoctorMuffn

  • Birthday February 28

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    Lake Forest, CA

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  1. Competition Clutch Flywheel for $246 shipped from VR Speed Factory http://www.vr-speed.com/competition-clutch-69-72-nissan-240z-2-4l-stu-flywheel-2-588-stu.html?gclid=CLnw4rri77QCFQinPAodm0cArQ "[Competition Clutch Flywheel] stamped with 4140 plate with 2000 ton pressure at 1260 degrees CNC machined and balanced to O.E. specifications" Fidanza Aluminum flywheel $350+ shipped Fidanza Steel flywheel clutch $372+ shipped "Fidanza high performance Steel Flywheel differ from the competition by being not only durable but serviceable. Another reason they out perform the competition is that the body is milled from a 1045 billet steel slab. The 1045 is a high carbon steel. It’s incredibly strong and can withstand the rigors of the most extreme engines, drivers and conditions. Of course all Fidanza steel flywheels include a serviceable 1045 steel insert for the clutch to ride on, which is attached using the highest quality aerospace fasteners." Fidanza Aluminum flywheel with Exedy clutch for $435 shipped from Ultrarev on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-Clutch-FIDANZA-Flywheel-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/310094704749?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483315b06d&vxp=mtr Why priced so differently? How is the manufacturing quality of CC's products? Is Fidanza better? What's the difference between those quoted sections for their respective flywheels? Has anyone had stripped bolt hole issues with the Fidanza aluminum flywheels? Has anyone experienced a seating issue with the stock clutch to the Fidanza flywheel due to stock bolts being too long causing poor clutch adjustment and engagement? Thanks P.S. I'm not interested in aluminum over steel. I'd prefer a stock setup (even a stock machinable flywheel) for my mostly stock Z. The most intriguing purchase for me at this point is the CC flywheel due to affordability. More information for those who are interested in motives: I've had an unsprung 6 puck disc on a stock flywheel for the past 4 or 5 years to only end up with a well worn, unmachinable flywheel and a thrashed input shaft bearing that roars something hideous in low gears. The clutch looks fine as it no longer was the weak link protecting more expensive, harder to service components. Maybe It chattered too much during engagement. Maybe I'm a bad driver. I'm ready to stop re-engineering what's worked in these cars for over 40 years until I do my engine swap to my Lexus 1UZ 4.0 liter. I will need this stock setup for the next 5-10 years until the project begins. I'm looking for longevity and reliability Any input is greatly appreciated.
  2. Thank you all so much for clarifying this for me. I've gotten in touch with him and when I scrounge up the resources I'll be ordering a set.
  3. I've been searching for the last two hours trying to find the thread for those wide ZG flares that I understand Justin (280ZForce) is selling. I even found a link where he states he is selling them, but can't access it. What's up? Am I failing at life again? Can someone help? Thanks, Sean
  4. That link will help a great deal. I'm not quite there yet, but up to this point I was thinking megasquirt. I will definitely be looking into that adaptronic. Thanks, Bro.
  5. You're in the right place, Johnny Wong. And I have a thread that will be showing my progress, but Marc280 and tonycharger72 are the guys to talk to. I just looked at tonycharger72's fabrication thread and what he has done opens up my eyes for the incredible opportunities and flexibilities that exist for our Z cars. Take some time to look at their threads and see what influences their thought processes. Then start. You'll be in the same place as I am in no time and it'll feel great being on your way.
  6. That is AMAZING!!! Your fabrication really inspires me, tonycharger72.
  7. Thanks, Eurokevin. I'll be checking into your boy's site. And I appreciate your input, Tonycharger72. It seems I will be switching over to a different trans, as at the moment Dellow's stuff is looking to be very appealing. I guess that ultimately makes it more of an assebly than a build when it comes to my project since I'll be purchasing mostly ready-made/engineered parts and won't be fabing up much myself. I just lack the knowledge as of right now. Furthermore, I can't forsee myself actually going with more than 400hp (let alone needing any more than that). And 300-400 is a steep goal for a streetable, economic N/A 4.0 litre (even if I do figure out a way to frankenstein VVT-i heads onto my early motor). As for forced induction... Well I'm gonna stick to one thing at a time for now. Maybe later with a full on stand-alone and sick tuning skills (yet to be developed) I'll consider a full-on JGTC type build; something like the above linked supra 1UZ video. I must say that I really do appreciate everything I've been privy to on HybridZ; especially its members' input. I now have a very clear direction with my project. I'll update as I carry on. I got the driver's side pivot pin out earlier this week, but when I went to take pictures I found that my camera was FUBARed. I left it on the dryer and it endured a weekend of laundry. I think the heat broke something. Anyway, I'll post pics soon.
  8. I might be interested, Eurokevin, but at the moment I'm more curious what your provisions are for the clutch and slave cylinder etc?
  9. NO WAY!!! Hate 'em. I love that heavy pedal feel. I've been braking unassisted since I owned my first car back in 2003.
  10. Marc280, Thanks for your input. I will be checking into those transmissions after all. I feel like I'm caught up in this whirlwind of fickle decision making which is not my style. But you're right, I've got an idea of what I want; I've had it for a long time. Now I'm just figuring out what parts I can mix and match and what aftermarket support is out there. There is a great deal more research yet to be done, but I've never been so motivated to do this stuff in the 5 years I've owned this car. You bring up a good point about the Silvias/240SXs running five and six speeds and doing fine on the track. It is essential that I have a tall top gear so she is still streetable/economical on the freeways. I like the R&P on that Armada differential (it's something like 2.96) but that's an R230 diff which will require some fab to fit into the S30 chassis it seems (with T3's kit). I'd prefer to stay away from the fab since I'm not really educated/skilled in it yet. That and Gabriel says the R230 will be overkill. That leads me to the engine: It's a 1993 1UZ-FE and I don't know if that is early enough or not. But from what I remember the rods were forged (don't know about sintered forged or really what that means) and I've balanced the entire engine to half a gram (excessive in the world of balancing I've been told) and measured and mixed so the pistons all rise to within .002" of each other. She should be able to rev very nicely. I also need to buy another engine for some of the externals and might then get something earlier if necessary. Or maybe even something later if they've ever had variable valve timing (which would be preferrable for a streetable N/A beast that idles nicely). I can always frankenstein a new motor with early rods and late VVT heads. Again, there's so much I still don't know. Also, I'm not a fan of forced induction, but 260tq @4400 rpm doesn't sound that exciting on paper. Therefore I'm considering the possibility of having a couple 1UZs - one turbo'd and the other stock/NA depending on what I'm interested in doing. I thank this video for that almost nonsensical idea: Check the second video too. It's a very nice build. Anyway... Lot's of ideas running through my head and I really appreciate all the input. So now I'm going down to pull the driver's side pivot pin now that I found a die to clean up the threads; M12 X 1.25 is not very common. I still don't have a tap to clean up my special pin tool.
  11. Okay... I took pictures of the rearend while disassembling it and I'll post them soon enough. I'm aware that it's not exactly the engine as this section of HybridZ would have me focussing on, but the final drive and rearend geometry is incredibly important for the cumulative result of my build. I'm considering Gabriel Tyler's Techno Toy Tuning IRS CV joint and hub conversion kit: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122079 I'll be checking into the different differentials to be used with this setup and the different ring and pinion ratios they offer. I need to project an output for my engine and then do some number crunching to figure the optimal gearing for decent hwy mileage and long yet powerful pulls in at least a couple key speeds. I also think a Wilwood brake package for the rear might be optimal. Let me know what you guys think. Anyone know where I can find a passenger side stub axle in the meantime? I pulled my stuff apart and found the splined-end cleaved where the nut fastens to it to retain the wheel/hub assembly in the hub carrier. I've been lucky I haven't lost a wheel while driving around town.
  12. Thanks, Marc280. I'm actually thinking about my rearend right now and I'm looking into Gabriel's conversion. Check my thread. I'm getting really excited about this.
  13. Good read! So how did you work out your exhaust and fuel tank, Tony? It occurred to me that you might be able to route the dual exhaust to vent just in front of the rear tires like some Shelby Cobras. And thanks for hitting me up on my thread.
  14. Okay... I guess I'll start with the current status: I have a 1973 240Z that is a rough riding son of a bitch. But it's my baby and I'm going to do this and then keep it for the rest of my life. I've begun to disassemble the suspension this week so that I can install Energy Suspension bushings and straighten/safen up the ride a bit; 36 year old rubber translates to no rubber and a very raw cruise with lots of knocking from the rearend. Thankfully I have a good heel-toe double-clutch downshift to lessen the shock. My touch has been fine-tuned on my ever-shifting driveline. I have the 1UZ-FE to be swapped. I've disassembled, measured (blue-printed), and short-blocked it so far. I also have an R200 from a 1984 280ZX (I believe that's the right date and model) which I pulled at a parts yard. The Dream: I want a Drifter/Wangan purpose built daily driver that is reliable and naturally aspirated. I DO NOT want power steering, power brakes, power windows, A/C, or any of the bells and whistles that cars come with. My biggest pet peeve (other than drivers who take excessively wide right turns) is a car that locks me in by its own doing. I believe I'm a purist at heart (as far as I think I understand it) and my Z will always be a driver's car. I envision myself 80 years old and excitedly seating myself (after sufficient practice in Yoga) into my raw Z by closing a drivers door with a cable-pull door latch on the inside panel; a stiff, unassisted brake pedal (per McLaren F1 and Ferrari F40); and a beast of a lexus motor mated to a stout 4 speed - the same my car was born with. And that is why I'm writing. Your Help: I welcome your feedback and suggestions with regards to mating my 4 speed to the 1UZ-FE. I do not know of any companies that make bell-housings for them, but have only started my serious research today with the reading of Marc's thread. The only thing I can perceive of that might change my mind is if the 4 speed cannot handle the stock powerband (tq and hp output at respective rpm) the 4.0 litre will be delivering. I've checked a spec sheet at http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html which puts the hp at 250 @ 5600 and tq at 260 @ 4400. I would welcome higher revs if it proved advantageous to the purpose - drifting and wangan - but don't foresee needing much more power on such a light setup. My motto in this build will be balance. I want to keep the 4 speed because it is my understanding that fewer and taller gears are better suited for drifting as a general rule. That and I won't need to modify the transmission mounting or shift lever location if I keep the same trans. Everything should stay the same from the trans back save the differential swap. This leads me to my next query: Is there a better differential to be used for drifting? I think I'll be looking for a tall final drive as well to keep with long hauls in each gear. The way I picture it is pretty, but I'm sure there are things I'm not fully aware of. Hence I'm starting, and I'm starting here. I think if anyone can help you at HybridZ will be the best suited. Thanks for stopping by and I'm looking forward to including everyone who is interested in on my project. Sean Molle
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