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CableSrv

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CableSrv last won the day on July 22 2015

CableSrv had the most liked content!

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About CableSrv

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  • Birthday 05/31/80

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    N3kidFr0g

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    Haltom City, Texas
  1. boosting LS1 with JCI kit

    Ok so CXRacing failed to be able to get in that racing radiator... Does anyone know of a decent thin aluminum radiator I can get ? I think CXRacing stated there's were 28.75 x 13.5 x 1.5 but not sure what else is out there that could fit?
  2. boosting LS1 with JCI kit

    I've seen a lot of people push the intercooler way out front. Considering I have the intercooler, ac condenser, and radiator plus fans it's going to be a tight fit. I think it's doable but just hoping this radiator gives me the clearance I need without cutting and relocating the radiator support.
  3. boosting LS1 with JCI kit

    Yea, I'm waiting till weather starts to cool down in texas before I start working as it's hot as balls currently. I have a GT45 turbo as well as a set of 6.0L truck manifolds and plenty of 2.5in stainless pipe. I also ordered CXRacing's racing aluminum radiator to help increase the area I have to work with. Currently with the stock ebay aluminum radiator and camaro fans, there just simply isn't enough area in front of the ls1 to put the turbo I got in. So figured if I get dual fans in front of the radiator in a push configuration and a thinner radiator, I might have enough room to fit the turbo there without having to cut out the radiator support. I'm definitely going to have to run the truck headers in the forward and upwards configuration to clear the JCI compressor. But hopefully everything will work. My biggest concern is really having to cut out the radiator support if this new radiator doesn't give me enough clearance. I also ordered: 60# injectors 3 O2 bungs, 2 for the stock ls1 ecu and 1 for a wideband. 50mm wastegate with 7/10/14 psi springs all the vbands I need for 4in downpipe and 2.5in crossovers and a 2.5in flex pipe. All I have left to order is the intercooler, piping, and blow off valve. Once everything is test fitted and looks correct I'll get my z trailered to a dyno tune and setup.
  4. I got myself a GT45 turbo and no way I can fit that between my radiator and engine! Not to mention since I have the JCI ac compressor kit, I can't do forward and under as there simply isn't enough space to fit a header output through there. I'm going to have to run a forward and up system, but even then I cannot fit my turbo between my radiator and engine... just not enough space! I'm either going to have to cut my radiator support and move it and get another 2-3in's. Not sure how everyone else is fitting their turbos with AC as well. So far every picture album I find, it looks like no one is running ac and a turbo?
  5. I use imgur.com to host all my images and it works pretty well.
  6. I'm about to go Turbo, however I'm finding it hard to route headers since I have the stock alternator location and JCI's ac compressor location setup. The driver side I am hoping I can get away with having the truck manifolds turned upwards and forwards... and hopefully that will give me enough clearance to pass over the compressor. If not, I might have to mock up something to go over it.
  7. Actually when I did my JCI kit it came with my driveshaft however I did have to specify a R180 flange. But I assume that would be correct.
  8. Texans, help me out.

    << texan, all you need currently is a saftey test and that's it! And most of the "shops" will be so happy looking at your old car that they skip some of those test.... Every time I've taken my ls1 240z, they are all smiles and just ask a shit ton of questions. I've deleted everything EGR and have no cats, nor do I catch oil from the valve covers and not a peep.
  9. I am currently running a STI R180 torsen. I had to get a R180 mustache bar that is post 72 as the pre 72 mustache bar I had held the diff an 1in backwards than it is suppose to be. you need a 72+ R180 mustache bar R180 input flange as a R200 input flange will not work on the STI You will need your drive shaft flange changed to match the R180 input flange probably. I already had a R180 driveshaft so I simply used my input flange on the STI R180. I did not get wolf creeks system, but got http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun-510-240z-with-r180-differential-108mm-cv-conversion-kit which includes the CV axles and the Stub Axles that push snap into the diff. I also bought the Ron Tyler diff mount as well for my setup. So far it's held up to a LS1 with slight abuse.
  10. So I'm now at the point that a stock ls1 isn't enough. I'm thinking of going turbo and have already figured out what size I want for my HP goals however, looking at headers I can either use the stock truck manifolds flipped forward or even flipped up and forward. Problem is with how JCI has the ac compressor. The driver side header, I don't think will fit? Does anyone currently run a turbo with the JCI kit? Part of me thinks I might have to make my own turbo header for the driver side.
  11. I did the same thing for my Z but mine are slightly different. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd I freakin love them!
  12. they provided me with permatex gasket maker to seal the shifter top to the t56.
  13. Concept Stealth Tail Lights

    Thanks to you litman for the idea, I did what you did and love every bit of it!
  14. It is NOT just shortening the shift! the MGW makes the shifter much more solid! Zero slop, and very quick shifts. I would not suggest anyone to purchase anything other than MGW. Even tho I had to modify it, this is honestly the best shifter I've ever had. I'ved used B&M's, Hurst, and the Pro series and none of them come close to the MGW in feel of solidedness.
  15. My latest changes... litman posted this a while back and I loved what he did so I copied him! <-- freakin awesome! As for the shifter on the T56. The default lever they give you to me is too straight. It comes with a mark so that you can trim it about 1.5in's to make it shorter and I did that, and still felt like it was still to forward. I had to rotate the orange part of the shifter to go rearwards to bring it closer to me. Then after all that I still felt I needed it to come back some. So I took the lever, notched it and bent it back about 10 degrees, and it is perfect now. The orange part rotates every 90 degrees. So mine now faces towards me.
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