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bajcsi

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About bajcsi

  • Birthday 01/27/1976

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. In my build, I started with 36mm with the 40DCOE and settled on 32 after working my way down. High compression stroker build (12:1 with e31, electromotive hpx ignition, etc.) - I didn't go with nearly as much cam as OP. I'm also running fairly retarded with 26 degrees all in so I can run on pump gas most of the time and adjust for 104. I found the 32's far more drivable for around town and plenty fun with auto-x. On pump gas I still got decent dyno results as well, 222/220 rwhp/rwtq. If I were down at VIR with it, sure, I'd go bigger. But honestly for around town and entrainment on country roads the 40/32 combo has been pretty satisfying compared to the 34s or 36s.
  2. Howdy, When I built my motor with triples, I made a vacuum log that connects to 3 runners on the manifold. The brake booster is fed off the back side of the log and the front side of the log has a .063" restrictor that connects to the PCV valve I installed in place of the pipe that exits the block. In between the first and second runner port, I put a t-connector and fed my MAP sensor off that vacuum source for vacuum advance control. There is a post of mine on here that discusses it and TonyD and others chimed in. By feeding it form the log rather than directly off a runner, it evens out some of the pulses, etc. Seems to work well. Bajcsi
  3. Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem and I wanted to get some opinions. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything that either I haven't tried or was relevant. That back story: I have a built 3.1L stroker (not done on the cheap) with E31 head running somewhere north of 11:1 compression. The most runs well with good compression across all cylinders. The head has had a sigfnificant amount of work done. Another piece of infromation is that it has a timesert in sparkplug hole number 3 due to an issue with the head that predates me. I'm running triple webers and Electromotive HPX ignition. I AM running PCV, as using advice from Tony D I created a vacuum log with a restrictor on one end for the PCV valve (mounted to a grommet which is mounted where the pipe once was all pressure fit). So I THINK I'm exacuating pressure from the crankcase. I have no other leaks that I know of. Engine mileage is 1200. Onto the issue: Symptom #1: On cylinder number 3, I have a small amount of oil coming out of the spark plug hole while the engine runs. As I drive, it slowly works it's way down the side of the block and makes a mess of things. Symptom #2: When the engine starts after sitting for more than a few hours, I get a greyish smoke while I idle. Once I drive off into the sunset, the smoke dies off and doesn't reappear until the car has been off for several hours. Things I have checked: Valve Cover Gasket - it doesn't leak and the oil clearly originates from the spark plug hole. Spark Plug Torque: It's well torqued, but even it if it wasn't, you would expect something other than oil to escape. Valve Seals - I replaced them last night and the problem persists. Ignition - the plug is firing correctly, so I wouldn't think it's unspent fuel coming out. I'm not running overly rich either, 12.5 at idle. 13ish -.13.8 at WOT on the idle/progression circuits and 13.0ish on the main circuit. And now on to what's left for my theories: Head cracked - Lord, I hope not. Oil passage nicked - Along the above lines, do the oil passages run anywhere close to the spark plug holes that a timesert may have affected. Oil passage nicked - I assume there is way too much metal in the combustion chamber that the machine shop doing the head work could have gotten close to oil passages? Bad oil control rings - If I had a bad oil control ring, would I not be BURNING oil consistently rather than for a few moments at startup (aka like when you have bad valve stem seals)? Also, would it be possible for oil to find it's way all the way up the cylinder wall and out a spark plug hole? Bad head gasket - I have an HKS 1mm head gasket on now. The problem existed with an HKS 2mm head gasket as well. Using ARP studs torqued to spec. Of all those, I would prefer one of the last two to be the case even though I don't relish pulling the engine anytime soon. The oil comes out clean with no antifreeze or anything else in it when drained. The antifreeze looks good. Thanks, Brett (this is crossposted over at classiczcars.com as well)
  4. Hey, I've got a R200 (3.54) out of a 280Z. It is just the diff, and don't come with the stub axles (or whatever you call the ones that slide into the diff). I had to use them for my LSD conversion. PM me if interested and we can figure out a price. bajcsi
  5. Actually, I think it's great that such discussion occurred. This thread has been quite informative for me and I hope it helps someone else. I got my MAP sensor wired up, vacuum plumbed and timing reset this evening. I tied into the psuedo-balance tube and added the inline fuel filter per Tony's suggestion. I'm going to be heading out for a test drive once the wife gets home and can watch the boys.
  6. That was my plan but doing random reading on the internet some people had warned not to do it off it because of the brake booster. I may well give it a try regardless... Thanks.
  7. Cool, thanks. I'll take a look at that.
  8. Hi, I'm planning to add a MAP sensor to my current setup; this includes 3.1L + Triple Webers + Electromotive HPX ignition. If you take a look at the attached photos, you'll see how I plumbed PCV and the brake booster. I've read that it's not advisbile to pull vacuum for a MAP sensor directly off the same vacuum line as the booster. My DCOE 40-151's have a vacuum port that I use to balance the carbs using gauges. Would this be a sufficient vacuum source for a 1 bar map sensor? Thanks, Bajcsi
  9. I had this problem... So I cut it down to the right length. REALLY hard metal. My hacksaw blade couldn't do anything to it. A cutoff worked perfect!
  10. I recently picked up a set of seat belts from a guy that had the retractors at the top and mounted in the stock location on the strut tower and one the bolt on the rocker. I have a rear strut bar so I lost the trim piece anyway and used the nice little black box the retractor came in (though it will fit without the cover in the stock location with trim. You can get them from http://www.international-auto.com/ (Charlottesville, VA) as a set. They are most likely made by these guys - http://www.andoauto.com/seat_belts.htm. These are basically what I got (http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=3832) and I just got rid of the b-pillar pivot, reverse the belt (careful here or you can junk the retractor) and away you go. I'll post a pic if interested. The only real problem I have with it is that the belt doesn't stiffly stay in place for you to grab when you want to put it on - but I am sure you can get a little lick that does that. edit: I'm not sure if the bar interferes with the stock belt location on the strut tower... but figured I would throw that out there. Brett
  11. Hey guys, So, I just got my car back from having the engine bay painted. As you might have seen in Car Talk on zcar.com, I'm not entirely happy with the work, but it isn't a show car. I'm going to give the guy a call tomorrow and see what we can do. Anyhow, I'd like to get some suggestions. I am going to be using an Electramotive HPX unit for ignition. I'm taking suggestions on where I should mount it. It's a fairly large unit. So far I see where the battery goes, but that would require battery relocation which I'm not really wanting to do. What do you suppose I could do in for making a mount for it? Here's a few pics of the bay and the HPX unit... http://www.zenonline.com/yellow_280z_enginebay/ Thanks, Brett Late '77 280Z Stock Daily Driver - Sold 11/06 Early '77 280Z Project (3.1L Stroker (Fully race prepped)/E31/Dual SU's/Electramotive HPX Ignition/LSD/etc...) 2002 Subaru WRX (Stage 2, Cobb TBE and AccessPort, Cobb Swaybars)
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