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Geno750

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Everything posted by Geno750

  1. Geno750

    Single Turbo Manifolds

    I didn't like a lot of things with the mounts. The biggest were how far forward the motor sits, the positioning/lean of the engine in the bay. I can confirm that the Supra store and Greddy manifolds fit with a larger turbo than a GT35 series on them. So if you go that route you'll be fine.
  2. Geno750

    Single Turbo Manifolds

    I'd avoid any of the log manifolds, like the PHR street torque. Also, if you haven't bought the CX mounts yet, I'm going to be selling mine. I switched to the weld in crossmember style mount.
  3. Geno750

    I got a batch of lighter pistons

    In the grand scheme of things, the cost to balance a rotating assembly is pretty low, and is worth doing. Especially if you're changing out the clutch/flywheel and crank pulley (unless using a Fluidampr pulley).
  4. Geno750

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Hey at least you can use your printer to make a pedal stop.
  5. Geno750

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Freeze the adapter and heat up the flywheel. Then you're only friction fitting against one thing. That does sound rough. I sold my CD008 and Maverick adapter after running into literally every problem you just typed out. I just ordered my OSGiken twin plate, they swapped to the Corvette hub for me for free. So it's bolt on and uses a Honda Civic pilot bearing. Now if I was doing it again, I'd buy the kit for the CD/JK trans that has you cutting off the factory housing and bolts to a J1/J2 housing. It lets you do the same thing, order off the shelf multi plate, switch to a Nissan hub. Find a pilot bearing with the right od/id and your up and running.
  6. Geno750

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    That drive shaft cost is what pushed me firmly over to the TR6060 camp. Slip yoke was so much cheaper and easily available. My delta printer is a D300VS+. I can squeeze about 17" tall parts on it as long as they are 11" or smaller in diameter.
  7. Geno750

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Time to bust out those 3d Printing skills you've been working on and print some covers out of TPU. They should be durable and heat resistant enough to last. That's what I'm going to be doing. I planned to send you some stl's but after having to undergo another round of ankle surgery, I got bored. This was the result.
  8. Geno750

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    One trick I've done for the shifter side is use a long bolt that threads into the shifter plate cover. From inside the cab of the car you take a board and your long bolt and use that to hold the rear up. Board Bridges the gap for the shifter. Then you can loosen/tighten the bolt and use washers to dial in the height of the tail side if the trans. Makes making the mounts easier.
  9. Geno750

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    That sucks man. Nothing more frustrating than a dumb little thing holding up progress.
  10. Geno750

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    It can't squish out, the bearing assembly is too tight for the paper to get in there, give it a shot and post the pictures. It took me two sheets of news paper to get mine out.
  11. Geno750

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    News paper bro. Just soak it and stuff it, then to compress it use a socket and tap it down (socket needs to fit inside the pilot bearing). I used this method to remove a pilot bearing that rusted to the crank after sitting for only God knows how long (ma70 Supra block).
  12. Geno750

    Use of a torque plate?

    1. I didn't bother with that, we just pressure washed the gasket to make sure no dirt that could pit the head/block was on there. 2. The machine shop that did mine torqued them down.
  13. Geno750

    Use of a torque plate?

    It's not that. The torque plate simulates the head. You don't put the head on without a gasket. For that reason, you don't put a torque plate on without a gasket, as it's no longer accurately simulating the head.
  14. Geno750

    Use of a torque plate?

    A gasket between the torque plate and motor is required. If you've got a new mls gasket use it. The risk there is it getting damaged, being clamped and reclamped later with the head isn't a big deal.
  15. Geno750

    Use of a torque plate?

    It's absolutely worth doing. You can rent one from Suprastore, and it's a pretty painless process. Just be sure to save the old head gasket to use with the plate.
  16. If you don't care about weight get steel lug nuts. Aluminum ones will have issues over time and nothing is more frustrating than having the threads on your aluminum lug nut strip. Muteki and Gorilla are easy to find in multiple colors and are made of steel. Personally I'd avoid red anodized ones, they turn pink after some time in the sun.
  17. Geno750

    Rb26dett and AC?

    There's a pretty good write up someone did with a vintage air unit. Personally I'd buy that unit and have the lines made to go from your RB compressor to it. http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/DatsunZ_Vintage_Air_1000.pdf
  18. Yeah it's a ymmv thing with the bre spoiler. Mine got a tiny chip in one of the corners due to shipping. I'll fill it in and sand it before painting but it depends on how perfect you want it. I'm aiming for 10ft good (looks perfect from 10ft+ distance).
  19. Geno750

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    You just don't run the PS pump until you've got a rack to connect it to. Poke around in the engine sub forums and you'll get a pretty good idea of what people are doing.
  20. Geno750

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    For me to go hydro it's literally just a matter of add rack and you're good to go. Making the lines is easy and my motor came with a pump. That's the biggest factor. Those of us with motor swaps can usually clear the PS pump hurdle automatically.
  21. Huh, didn't know that. Their 'copy' is the only current one I've seen with all the mounting studs though.
  22. Geno750

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    I really hate you for posting this, and I hate myself for clicking on the thread. I've started assembling the parts I need for hydro, but now I'm calling around sourcing the parts for electric. Thanks for making it a bit easier/harder to choose. 🙄
  23. No mods to fit those wheels. Also, BRE is selling their spoiler. They are the ones who designed the original one back in the 70's for usually less than the not so great copies. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts
  24. Geno750

    1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    I've had a 280Z in my possession for years now, and I got what was essentially a free 1JZ after I sold the manual trans ecu and harness from it. I never intended to swap a 1JZ in a Datsun, but after holding onto both since around the date I joined the forums, I started collecting more parts over the years and decided it was time to start the swap process. The first major hurdle turned out to be my 75 280Z's body. While outside the car looked great for its age, under years of dirt and what turned out to be bondo, the Alabama/Florida weather wasn't kind to the car at all. Everything from the floorpans forward had rusted out, including the shock towers and frame rails. One quick trip from Colorado to the west coast later and I had a new to me 1977 280Z shell that had spent its life in Cali, and had very little rust. Even better was what rust the car did have wasn't rusted at all on my 1975 280Z. With their powers combined, I had a fairly rust free shell to work with. Onto the motor, The parts collection started early, but has been revised a few times. I used to have a completely built up 180SX and some of the parts intended for it were originally slated for the 1JZ. After a series of trades and deals, I ended up with a 9174 EFR with an aluminum center section and 1.05 A/R T4 hotside. I feel that this is going to be way more turbo than I need for a 280Z but whatever, I can't seem to get rid of the thing for a smaller turbo. My 1JZ head had some odd wear, and as I was trying to decide if I wanted to try and machine it and bring its flow up to anything near what a stock 2JZ head can do, a vvti 2JZGTE popped up for sale and I scooped it up with the assumption that if 1.5JZ swaps are a thing, then going the other way has to work. Turns out Aaron from Driftmotion has already been down this path with quite a bit of success, and after speaking with him while ordering parts, I'm glad I took the plunge. Supporting mods on the 1JZ bottom end are: Weisco 86.5mm 9.5:1 pistons ARP rod bolts for stock 1JZ rods ARP head studs I'll have the bottom end machined and the assembly re-balanced with the new pistons and rod bolts. Should be fun. Anyone know of a machine shop near Denver with a 2JZ torque plate? Fuel system/ecu: Drift motion -8 Fuel rail Donkeypower 1300cc injectors (EV14 bosch type). DW Surge tank with twin AEM e85 044 clones. Fuel lab fpr and filters GM Flex fuel sensor for E85 AEM Infinity 6 Standalone I'll likely have the stock 280Z tank popped apart, cleaned out and coated since with the surge tank I should have enough fuel to do whatever I want. One thing I learned in my quest for DBW is aside from being heavy, the USDM 2JZGTE (or possible early JDM, not 100% sure) throttle body doesn't play well with the VVTI solenoid. In fact, they don't fit due to the TPS sensor being in the way. However, I'm totally okay with that, as I didn't want to deal with installing a throttle cable anyway. The plan from the start was to switch the TB out with something similarly sized in diameter, and that ended up being a 350Z throttle body. For wiring I'll simply move what would have been IACV wiring about 18" further forward. Please excuse the messy garage, its normally much more organized but trying to cram 2 shells and a Ducati in there left me with little space. I'm having to play garage tetris to store all of this crap until I can haul away the blue shell. Here is the 2JZGTE vvti head on the 1JZ bottom end. All of this stuff is eliminated simply by going DBW with the AEM infinity 6 with my 350Z TB and pedal combo. Quite the size difference. The biggest irony is that if the bolt pattern on the 2JZ thottle body was the same for the top two bolts as it is for the bottom two studs, this would be a bolt on affair. Sadly, only the bottom two studs line up. No issues with the throttle blade hitting the inside of the manifold. I'll likely end up not using the bottom bolt holes at all, and instead center up a plate and weld it to the intake to use as a new flange. One of the last engine parts I need is a flywheel/clutch. I'm using a milled down 350Z CD009 transmission. What I'm hoping to do is just run a clutch kit that lets me swap the clutch hub/disc out for a Nissan one and lets me keep my 2JZ flywheel. OS Giken, ATS work this way as the clutch disc part number is universal to all their kits. The only thing that changes is the center hub. The thousand dollar question however is simply will there be enough engagement of the input shaft on the transmission to make this work long term. I also got my Greddy T88 turbo manifold on there and my 9174EFR fits quite nicely on it. The only thing to do to the manifold now is cut off the 4-Bolt WG flange and weld on a v-band for my Turbosmart WG. For anyone wondering what the CD009 looks like bolted up to a 1JZGTE with a VVTI 2JZ head, here you go.
  25. Geno750

    1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    Gearbox fun continues. Removed the stock transmission mounts on the car. Need to at least buy the correct shift rod. The current one is too long to let the Magnum housing seat all the way. So no test fitting for a bit.
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