G-Tech

I went to take pictures of the plug but the wires are completely wrapped and you cannot see any colors of the wires. Here are the pics but dont think its gonna help

If no one does before I get home later I'll get you the pic this evening

1st should be which ever has the better body. If they are both similar in condition you should keep the 280z. The zx has less support from companies for parts. Possibilities are endless with the s30 chassis. You could always get the zx running and just drive it while you get the 280z ready for the motor swap.

Basically what you have are generic tractor trailer tail lights. They are nice and simple and there are lots of options for them. i would atleast find LED ones so they are bright and look a little more custom. When you do LED's the car might think that the bulb is blown cause there is little resistance with LED lights. if it does that, you may want to get a resistor to put inline so the blinker doesnt blink 100mph. They are only like $7 each and install super easy. i use that style light also but i kinda went crazy and made my own tail light buckets and lens to house the tail lights to give it a custom look. i found these cool versions of lights that use an infinity mirror set up to make the lights look like a tunnel when lite up. i also used the resistors and my lights blink normal.

i have a 280ZX with LS swap that has 400WHP and a 6-speed. i have the stock r-200 with Quaife internals. that has held up flawlessly. there are other options for internals for the r-200 also. that diff should handle it fine.The problem you will have is if you still have universal joint half shafts and then stub axles was the week link i found. Mine beeing a stick shift though is harder on the drivetrain. you might be fine if you just upgrade to 280zxt CV joints and you will have to switch the stub axle companion flange also. (both of which i have that i would sell if you decide to go that route). if you can afford it, i got custom Chromoly stub axles and companion flanges made to switch to 300zxt CV joints (gonna be close to $2k). when im at the drag strip i dump the clutch at 4k RPM and run 11.8's all day. it takes it fine. And yes, the Z car world still does not appreciate the 280zx. There are a few of us going the extra effort to make them work however. And to keep this on track with this 5-lug conversation topic, shops that are making custom stub axles and custom front hubs are willing to make them 5-lug for you. i found that F-body Camaro wheel studs are almost identical so i bought ARP wheel studs for the Camaro and i run them with my 4-lug set up with no issue

This was what i did for mine. This is a MSA front bumper that i fiber glassed over the blinkers and found headlights with blinkers. but nothing like an older Z either

You kinda have the same dream as alot of zx owners. Unfortunately I've never seen it done to great success. Your car is surprisingly different than the older 240,260 and even 280z..if your very talented with body work and or have some money to pay someone talented, you can be the 1st. My suggestion is embrace the uniqueness of the 280zx (s130 chassis)...i have a 280zx also so I'm on your side...

depends how well it ends up running as is. chances are you will chase down a handful of little issues. in which case you mine as well go for the swap so that you can get to know it better and make things right. it will be a little faster also. Value wise i think going for the swap is going to be better too. it doesnt look like an original turbo car so there is not big value for it the way it is. older Z's are getting good money for original but i dont know anyone that specifically searches for an original 280zx. only turbo 280zx's are worth leaving as is, the rest are free to do whatever with in my opinion. and trying to make it a turbo model will be more work than the VQ35. good luck with it, it does look pretty solid from a quick pic that you have

i dont see why you would need to swap crossmember, the motors are the same as far as bolting to the car goes. the suspension is the same, no need to change that either. i think the hardest thing is going to be swapping the harness. the rearend is possibly different. turbo cars are R200's with 3:54 gears. you will have to find out based on what exact model you have to know what rearend you have. the CV joint style halfshaft in the turbo car is much better. for that you will also need the outer stub axles that mate up to it. Bottom line is i think you will want to swap the entire rear subframe, thats if your parts car has all that still. ive never done it, just speaking of my experience with s130 chassis so hopefully someone who has done it will confirm my beliefs good luck!

Depends if you have the computer or not already. if you dont, you just have to get a DBC throttle body and a F-body Camaro computer. They were DBC. Thats what i did. Im just a mechanical guy so it seemed easier but i"ve learned its not a big deal to do DBW if thats what you have. Im not sure what has to happen with the gas pedal for DBW but my guess is there is a simple solution for it if you research it.

i dont have the same swap as you but when i did a swap in my zx i explained to the driveshaft shop that the rear-end doesn't move and they took my fixed measurements and made it so the slip yoke goes half way in. this way when you install it, you can slid it all the way in 1st, then pull it out to mate with the rear-end. if you make the driveshaft length with the yoke fully seated, you would probably fight with it when you lift the back up to meet with the rear-end .

He buys plain rotors then has them slotted by someone else. Guessing it saves him money somehow, probably buying rotors in bulk. I like his stuff, i have his full brake kit for my 280zx (although i didnt know i was losing my parking brake till i was installing everything) but he has never been good at customer service. Not sure if he is too busy or what.

willwood!!! i ran into the same thing.i have arizona zcar brakes also..just gotta know diameter, thickness, and bolt pattern. i was able to get the black coated ones also from willwood

I had a small block chevy in my 280zx and it was very nose heavy...the car lost alot of handling....when I switched to the LS (which was alot more work, believe it or not) the car got all its balance back. Its lighter now then it was from the factory....well worth beeing alum block if you ask me IMG950995.3gp

if your saying 3-1/2" is from the lowest part of the car to the ground. id say your at the limit of going low and still driving most places. im 4" and i clear most things. you just have to know when you pull in somewhere to pull in on an angle to help clear the front end if thats low too.

The bumper on top I've only seen in pictures from cars in Japan, so not sure you can get it in the states. The front end on the bottom looks like someone made the grill and lower air dam from an older z fit somehow...it actually looks like they did a good job. I dont know how easy it would be cause I've never seen that before. I would check out MSA (motorsport auto)...you can do a simple lower airdam to add a different look or I bought their full front bumber with the fog light buckets molded in. I'm pretty happy with it, definitely changed up the front end. Alot of people (me included) like the look of the older z front grill but you will find that the 280zx is very different from the 240,260, and 280z...many people have tried to make the zx front look like the older z's and I've seen only a couple good results...all depends on how much knowledge and experience you have with doing body mods

Sorry that I dont know about your exact setup but when I put an MSD ignition on my zx I had to get a tach adapter to get the tach to work...dont know if the msd tach adapter only worked with their ignition box or not but mayb that gives you a direction to research. Good luck