frosty383

so any three belts you named there will work? which one are you using of the three? another thing is none of the autoparts locally list those part numbers, where did you buy them from? online, any particular autoparts chain?

OK folks I would like some input and posibble pictures of your V8 Z pulley drivebelt setups. Heres the problem I'm having, as you can see by the picture of my setup I have a small V-belt running the crank, waterpump and alt. the pulleys are billet single groove for the crank and WP. The problem is after a couple of spins of the motor above 5000 rpms the belt begins to strech, burn and snaps. Now I am thinking the problem lies in how the alt is fastened. its a march kit with billet mounting bracket and adjustable link bar. Its such a pretty and simple kit that i would hate to do away with it but at this point there is no reliability in it for a long trip. Any suggestions on your setups would be helpful. thanks, Johnny from south florida

I have a fresh r200 open diff with 390 gears and axles. I just pulled off my 260z, too much gear for a stroker. let me know.

Well heres the thing, the aftermarket seats sit too high on the stock seat supports and when I mocked them up the lumbars on the back rest and sides hit the door and the console. I have a 73 parts car that I cut out the seat supports and I placed the seats on the floor and their perfect. but the floors rigidness was compromized once cut.

OK, heres the deal I am going to be replacing my stock seat on my 260Z with a set of nice aftermarket leather seats. In order to do this I have to cut out the stock seat supports that run from the tunnel to the door. These supports I believe to give the floor boards rigidity and once cut the floors will get weak. What would be the best way to weld some cold steel bars to the floors to strenghen up the floors??

what eventually I would like to build for this car is a 302DZ motor but one that cranks 8500 rpms. something like this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/69-camaro-stock-302-DZ_156232.htm

Shot at 2008-04-18

quick question. I have a 260Z with a SBC in it. its a 5 speed, 650 holley DP dual feed with a fuel filter intergrated fuel rail. I have the holley FPR set at 6.5 lbs. I have an external holley blue FP located right in front of the fuel tank with a 90 degree fitting on the tank and a 3/8th" blue hose connected to a cheap autoparts all metal fuel filter in between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. Until now the car was running fine considering I have only driven the car at night but today I drove around in it for about an hour or so. Upon trying to merge onto the highway I gave it full throttle in first and second and noticed that the engine developed a very noticable sputter and cut off. I stoped on the side of the road and tried fireing her back up and nothing. the fuel pump was still powered up and I felt a weird shaking in the fuel hoses leading to the regulator and towards the carb. I let the engine cool down a bit even though the temp guage was a 170 and after 5 minutes she cranked right up. Now on to the question at hand, that weird sputter, I felt while driving at night but not as bad where it would make the motor stumble like it did today. Could it be the rear fuel filter thats inline between the tank and pump?, I ruled out the pump and the FPR because when I got home I opened the hood and while it was idling I gave the throttle a few good blast to 6000 rpms while watch the fuel pressure gauge and it stayed steady at 6.5 PSI.

well the battery terminals are clean and tight. negative is well grounded and positive is tight and both terminals covered with their rubber covers. checked all prong type connectors and crimp connectors around firewall inside dash and outside as well and at ignition switch and down the harness.

Ok heres the deal. I have a 74 260Z with a SBC 5m in it, I have a one wire alternator in it which means that its not wired to the factory harness, battery and chassis ground and thats it. OK I recently noticed that every so often when I would try and start the car I would get a couple of clicking sounds from around the fuse box area and then it would just start after a couple of tries. I had an extra ignition switch and changed it but same deal. I tested the yellow wire on the solenoid while someone turned the key and sure enough no current to the solenoid. I have a shop manual and tried to trace the yellow solenoid wire through the firewall to test inside the car and could not. so what I did is test the incoming and outgoing wires on what seems to be some sort of metal relay above the fuse box that clicks when the ignition switch is turned and the motor does not turn over but I am not sure thats the outgoing solenoid wire to the engine bay that leads to the solenoid due to its different color but when tested it has outgoing current with ignition switch in the run and start position. So what I propose to do is simply purchase a pushbutton starter switch like this one from jegs http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplayPopup?storeId=10001&partNumber=555-10310&langId=-1&showValue=1 wire that to a 30/40 relay then send a wire from that aftermarket relay directly to the starter solenoid so when I turn the ignition to run with the key I can just push the switch and start the car. Now my question here to the electrical Gods would be: when I run the wire from the aftermarket relay which is activated through the pushbutton switch to the solenoid, Do I have to disconnect the existing yellow factory wire thats on the starter solenoid now? or can it be connected over it and would that cause any type of electrical problems later?

thanks for the input. heres a pic of the car.

need some input. I picked up this cherry 1970 240Z from a good friend of mine. motor in it is an L28 out of an 83 ZX. as far as I can see its got a diesel crank, steel headgasket stock t3 turbo (open down pipe) some aftermarket front mount cooler and internal wastgate, OHH and a haltech:icon6:. this little gem I will keep but would like to do away with the stock T3 and internal wastegate setup so I can get a T04E with an external wg and then have a 3" exhaust installed. what do you think of this turbo on ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170284706165&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= and what WG would you recommend? thanks johnny from miami, Fl

4th gen camaro

Question?, I keep reading here that it is not recommended that wd40 or any type of penetrating oil be used to assist in the removal of a strut cartridge that is jammed in a housing. Why not? I also read somewhere else on a similar subject that when instaling a new cartridge in a housing that grease should not be used.? wont the grease aid in friction and removal later on down the road when replacing?

well I'm using a borg warner world class T5 out of a 1991 camaro and its a salvage trans I pulled off of a running 91 camaro RS, my engine is mild 383 setup in a 260z which based on my assumptions makes well into the 400 hp to the flywheel and its held up pretty well. you can probably run a built T5 on yours which would work great because of the trans gear ratios or you can use a T56 6 speed and have to convert to a one piece rear main seal and Lt1 type flywheel. another thing to look into is the flywheel inbalance depending if your motor is externally balanced or internally like mines in which I had to take the stock camaro flywheel to a machine shop and have it counter balanced with a 400 flexplate.