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toki

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About toki

  • Birthday 10/20/1987

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  1. I have put unnecessary amount of torque on this: Soaked it in penetrating oil. I am on it with a 10" adjustable wrench...I have decent leverage but it's just not budging. Here is the new piece from courtesy. Shown is the drivers side, the other picture of the one of the car is the passenger side. The weld on this one are dirty, but they are both the same in the fact they have 2 tacs securing the slotted nut. Unless someone has a better idea I am going to just pull the rack out and jig it up somewhere and get enough leverage to either rip the shaft out the side of the housing or break that nut loose.
  2. I will get pictures tonight when I go home. I have been slacking and haven't been back out to the car since I made this thread. It makes since the nut with the 4 flat spots is the lock nut to me, I think it just need to lock the rack to either side to retract the gear/shaft/whatever when I go to break it so it doesn't flex like it was starting to last time.
  3. The new tie rod from courtesy has the same little thin nut with the same slits welded on as well.
  4. You see that the inner nut with the slits is in fact welded on? I out a flat head in there and gave it some blows with a 4lb sledge, the steering gear shaft (I don't know if that is the right term) was just flexing and likely absorbing the force.
  5. No one else has ever removed in the inner tie and can tell me what actually needs to be done?
  6. Alright, I searched my little heart out and couldn't find a good explanation for my simple mind. I am working with a 72, bought new complete tie rod assemblies from Courtesy Nissan...but I don't understand how you are supposed to remove the inner tie rod assembly from the steering rack. I see the large thin nut with 4 flat faces on it between the inner assembly and the steering rack, I gave that a solid pull and nothing...I didn't want to press my luck and go at if I was wrong. Also I see the inner tie rod has that piece welded on with 4 pits, I put a flat head in there and gave it a few good pounds with a 4lb sledge and about nothing. So was I at least close? P.S. carfiche sucks, been checking it as often as I can since 5pm and I still haven't seen the 280z manual available once.
  7. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/730720/harry_potter_and_the_stolen_book/ I guess this kid got his book straight up ganked at the release last night. Kind of funny if you ask me, haha.
  8. I saw the title of this thread and came to say exactly what the study shows: AFX sucks, waste of money.
  9. Thanks for all the input and stories guys. Rather than go through having the old stub axles prepped and redrilled, I'm just going to go with the MM axles.
  10. I keep reading old threads with people talking about stub axle failure being fairly common under road racing scenarios. My question is, is the problem really that serious, something you should count on happening eventually if you run a big tire with a solid suspension setup? I couldn't see the car ever being raced with anything LESS than a sticky 275 street tire (rt615 or something of the sort) out back and will see time with slicks on it. Just trying to figure out if a safety issue is really at hand, and I should just suck it up and get the billet ones from MM.
  11. From what I understand the early 260z were the same as all 240z, and the laters the same as all 280z. But, that being said. These cars are 30+ years old, who knows what they have been through and who has needed to replace what suspension pieces.
  12. I need their phone number so I can A) Call them, and Ship them their cores (UPS wont ship internationally without a phone number.) Would be even more sweet if they could respond to any of my emails or follow up on the note left with my $750 payment to them to get in contact with me.
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