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1970 240z

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About 1970 240z

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    Male
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    Arizona

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  1. For a 77 280z: To by pass the Hazard switch to allow you turn signals to work, Jumper (on the harness side) the Green wire to the Green/yellow wire. If your turn signals work after applying the jumper then you know the Hazard Switch is an issue and not working and it likely needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
  2. There is a way to by pass the Hazard switch with 1 jumper wire. I'll post how to do this once I review which 2 wires are involved. I've done this a couple of times when trouble shooting the Hazard switch. Also, (I'm sure you've done this) flick your headlights high to low and back afew times. I've seen where these old switches can get stuck in between modes and no headlights light.
  3. This is the flasher I'm using with my LED turn signals. I've used this on 2 cars (my 77, and a friend's 75) with no issues. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/tridon/novita,EL12,flasher,1013
  4. I recently was working on a 77 280z turn signal switch. As a by product I developed a headlight issues that sounds much like what your experiencing. I found that if the black ground wire running between (connecting) the turn signal switch and the headlight switch was not connected then the headlights would not come on. Driving/marker lights all worked but no headlights. Once reconnected all worked. Check that this wire is connected on your setup. It's the unmarked wire on the far right in the headlight combo switch diagram above.i I believe this wire completes the circuit to run the headlights through the high/low beam switch. As for power in your ground wire, that make sense as power ultimately starts at the + battery and needs to return to the - battery, effectively a circle. So as the power runs it's route it will show power along the way unless the circuit is broken/open (such as a switch).
  5. 1970 240z

    WTB: hood prop clip

    Hood props are typically held down with plastic clips. I just replaced my 77 280z with this and it worked great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hood-Prop-Rod-Support-Clamp-Clip-Holder-For-Nissan-Fairlady-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-/253595620722?hash=item3b0b7a1572
  6. This guy posted a few years ago that he makes them. You could reach out on the thread and see if he is still around and able to make them. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30390-pantera-look-a-like-rear-lid/?page=2 user's name: 280zforce
  7. Bawsfuls, sorry for the slow response, i just saw that you had some more questions. Did you get this resolved already?
  8. 1970 240z

    Switch needed

    That's the electric antenna switch location. Switch like this: https://zparts.com/index.php/product/antenna-switch-280z-console/ Or a Blank:
  9. 1970 240z

    ZX Weatherstripping Supplier Found

    Bump! Any updates? Contact info?
  10. 1970 240z

    '78 280Z Fast Idle Actuator

    You could retrofit the 280z Electric Magnetic Vacuum switch and pull vacuum from somewhere on the intake while being electrically activated from the compressor circuit of the Vintage Air.
  11. 1970 240z

    '78 280Z Fast Idle Actuator

    PM sent
  12. #4 should be getting it's power from #4b, which in turn gets power from #3 by going through the switch. If your getting power at #4 when it's disconnected from #4b, then pull you headlight fuses, you may be getting a back feed of power through the fuses. also, Check the round connectors where the main harness connects to each headlight harness. Pull apart the connector, clean and test for power. These connectors can get dirty.
  13. Hope this helps (1977 280z): Here I've added the headlight circuit From the Fusible link into the Combo switch wire (Wht/Red) , then From the combo switch to the Fuse box (Red), then From the fuse box to the headlights. Common issue is bad/dirty connections at the Fusible links if your not getting power on the White/Red wire at the combo switch plug. As said earlier, the Key switch is not required to be on for power to be at the headlight circuit.
  14. 1970 240z

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    The honda civic motor plugged is wired correct for 240z's, the kia motor is wired correct for 280z's as cgsheen mentioned, I've have done both 77 & 78 280's myself with kia motors.
  15. Glad the diagram helped. I agree with seattlejester as the LED's are easier on switch not harder. I've run mine for 3 or 4 years with zero issues. As you've likely already found, there are write-ups describing rebuilding the switch.
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