1970 240z

Glad to hear they are shipping, can't show off our new threads if we don't have them. Lol 😆

Did you reinforce the body? That's alot of pwr on these light weight and old cars

Hope I'm not too late to order one 2XL T Shirt Black Two XL T shirt Black One 2XL Hoodie Antique Cherry Red

For street car purposes, will the engine mounts accommodate VQ stock style (or any) rubber mounts? After market engine swap mounts I'm aware of all use poly, which adds unwanted vibration to a street car.

Yes I want in this go around. Do you have ladies shirts available to for my girl to wear with her Zcar?

Not sure if this will help you, but here is a diagram for the wiring.280zxtwireinstall.pdf 280zxtwireinstall.pdf

Thanks! I just updated my password 👍

juliarosario any updates on getting your Z together, more pics

Click on the down arrow next to the word CREATE at the top right of the page, a drop menu will appear and you'll see the option to Donate. or https://forums.hybridz.org/donate/make-donation/

It was back in December 2018 that I have mine repaired, but I believe it was around 150$. The coiled wires around circuit board on mine were damaged. He wasn't able to fix the fuel light at the time because he didn't have the correct Thermistor information. All he was able to get was the ford unit as described below, but ford's operate on a much lower voltage so they overheat and burn up in a Datsun. Disclaimer: Below is what I did, if you choose to do the same or similar thing it is at your own risk. Remember that fuel and it's fumes are flammable and dangerous! My gauge light "canister" on the sender was shot, so I bought a ford unit (I tested the fords away from the fuel and it's thermistor was too low of voltage, it burned up on the Datsun so DO NOT have it around fuel and plug it in!) , I opened up the canister and replaced it with this thermistor below, it's been working great since December 2018. Test your new Thermistor setup thoroughly before installing it into your tank just to be sure that it doesn't over heat and works properly. I sent my Thermistor info to Bob's Speedometer, so he maybe able to fix the light in house now. DESC: THERMISTOR NTC 1KOHM 3972K DISC Amphenol Advanced Sensors / RL2004-582-97-D1 Ford Canister: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/fm-ef008a.html

Had my 77 sender repaired by: https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/services.asp

Did you find the issue?

I saw this when it posted, that's when I decided that I have resourced so much info here and enjoyment that I was indebted to HybridZ, I immediately donated and have donated since. It is soo unfortunate that photo bucket robbed the forum of so much visual information that was present.

I just pulled the dash on my 77 project and thought I'd do some headlight circuit testing. This car has the OEM style headlight bulbs. With the Key Off, Turn sign switch and headlight switch fully removed, I get no power to the fuse box as expected. I connected only the Red wire and the White/red wire to the Headlight switch. With the Headlight switch off there is no power to the fuses as expected. Turning the Headlight switch fully on and there is power to the fuses as expected. Checking the power at the round Sub-harness connector of one headlight (in this case the left side) I had power at each of the 3 wires, not expected. I realized the power is routing through the right-side bulb which is still connected. To verify I disconnected the Right-side Sub-harness, this removed power from both the Low & High Beam wires at the sub-harness connectors. I still had 1 wire with power (Red on the right & Red/yellow on the left) in each Sub-harness connector as expected as these wires are coming from each of the two fuses. At this point I reconnected both Sub-harnesses. At the column, in the 6-pin connector, I temporarily grounded the Red/black which activated the Low Beams, I moved over and then grounded the Red/white which activated the High Beams as expected. Keep in mind that I still ONLY had the Red wire and the White/red wire connected to the Headlight switch, no other wires and key was off. See if you get the same results. On a side note, I actually had an experience where BOTH headlights were burned out, likely from a voltage regulator issue causing over voltage. Look closely at your bulbs to ensure that you aren't having a similar issue with the High Beam circuit.

Looking again at the schematics, there is a wire branching off of the right headlight wire after leaving the fuse to feed the High Beam Indicator bulb located in the speedometer. The ground side of the High Beam Indicator connects to the High Beam ground wire circuit (Red/white wire) "the fatter one, that reads low" so it will always have some small amount of voltage due the small amount of power passing through the bulb, so I would say your 0.8v would be expected there. For the right head light, the Red wire should be the only wire with near full battery voltage, For the left head light, the Red/yellow wire should be the only wire with near full battery voltage. Interesting data collected from my 1977 with all switches connected. Battery Voltage = 11.94v (engine & Key off). Ltf Headlight Sub-harness connector: Rt Headlight Sub-harness connector: High Beam: R/y=11.88v High Beam: R=11.87v R/w=.12v (won't light a Test Light) R/w=.14v (won't light a Test Light) R/b=.00v R/b=.00v Low Beam: R/y=11.92v Low Beam: R=11.92v R/w=11.92v (lights Test Light but is less bright than R/y) (likely less amps) R/w=11.92v (lights Test Light but is less bright than R) (likely less amps) R/b=.00 R/b=.00v I don't have a reason yet for the higher volts but lower amp 11.92v R/w on Low Beams vs .12v on High Beams, other than I'm sure it's feed back from a circuit in the switches. I thought I would share this to see how it corresponds to your results. I am running the stock headlights though all my other lights are LED.