thomas461

These would have looked nice in my car.

Tyler, Idle on the RB is controlled by the idle air control motor. I had a similar situation. The idle air control motor pintle was dirty and everything moved slowly. This caused my idle to come down slowly and occasionally the motor would quit. Cleaning mine with throttle body cleaner did the trick. If the problem is idle I would troubleshoot that system first. Hope this helps. Pete

Tony D Post #17 Thank you kindly for the information on the Permatex Ultra Black. I used a gasket and did shoddy prep work and because it leaked I am doing it again. A friend of mine told me about the Ultra Black and I was a bit hesitant. He said that is all they use on the 300ZX TT. I bought the studs, all 31 of them and did 3 dry runs putting the pan in so I don't disturb the bead. I also learned you can absolutely put the pan in with the oil pick up bolted to the bottom of the engine if you go in at the correct angle. Thank you again for the info! Pete

I was at BDC when I installed the Turbo Distributor shaft. I thought about it after installation and it was definitely a rookie mistake. I knew I could make the adjustments in the software when I got the Haltech installed (Of course that was 10 months ago). I know this is elementary; but if someone else gets confused by the Turbo CAS using the Nissan Wheel/Disk this may help. On the Nissan Disk there are two sets of windows. The outer window with 360 Slots provides the ECU with crank timing. The inner window which has slots based on the number of cylinders provides the ECU with cam timing. The important part is one of the inner windows has to be larger, different, etc than the other on like the Z31 disk. That provides you the ability to identify Piston 1. You set your timing based on that larger window. Nissan Speak 360 Slots = 1 Complete Revolution of the motor (Suck, squeeze, bang, blow) 180 Slots = 1 Complete CRANK revolution and you are on the opposing stroke on the Cam profile (Intake to Exhaust or vice versa) Haltech Speak Tooth Offset When making adjustments to the Tooth Offset think of it as moving around the Nissan Disk 1 slot for every tooth offset. It took me a while after staring at 360 slots on the Nissan Disk to realize that, like a conventional distributor, I needed to get this thing firing 180 tooth/slots off where I was. In the Haltech Software under the Main Setup, Basic, Trigger Tab I set the Tooth Offset: 180 teeth/slots off and checked it with the timing light. The timing marks were right back where I started just on the compression stroke, perfect. I connected the power to the fuel pump, enabled the injectors and had my son hit the key. Three seconds later the Datsun breathed to life. SIDE NOTE: You can save and reboot from the software, I was having better luck after saving having my son turn the car off and back on. Now, on to tuning the motor.

The problem with not getting a spark was the expensive Innova 5568 Timing light. The expensive one gave up the ghost after 3 uses. The $9 spark tester from the parts store told me it was seeing spark. A friend loaned me a cheap timing light from Harbor Freight and it worked like a champ. Go figure. Now, I need to figure out since I have set my timing according to my marks; I am getting light back firing and a fuel smell. One step forward.

I haven't tried holding the plug to ground to see if there is a spark. I was going to do that last night, but I didn't have a helper to turn the engine over for me. The coils do have power during cranking. I measure about 12.4V. The plugs have maybe 500 miles on them and dont look too bad at all. The injectors are disabled in the software so they wont spray fuel during this step.

Yes. I have checked them at least 10 times off what you had posted before just to check my math. My poor 13 year old thinks his old dad is going batty for having him double check them to make sure I am not seeing what I want to see. I read folks have had issue getting signal through the Magencor wires with new timing lights. I am going to purchase one of the cheapo spark plug testers with the LED lamp to see if I am getting spark. If so I will put the timing light pick up on THAT and see if I can get a good signal. I am right there, everything else is set and works properly. I am at the factory Timing angle of 70 Degrees and 0 teeth offset everything else matches what you had listed on yours. I have the timing locked and my dwell is set at 4MS at the moment. I do have the ignition locked at 10 Degrees.

What I have got! 74 260Z 1975 L28 Motor (Rebuilt and running before on carbs and stock ignition) Haltech Sport 2000 ECU Haltech CANBUS Wideband O2 Sensor Z31 Trigger Wheel GM Truck Coils (12558693) (D581) Magnecor Wires What I have done. They are wired per Ron T. Instructions http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59961-ignition-wolf3d/?hl=12558693&do=findComment&comment=550142 I have installed a Haltech Sport 2000 ECU in my 74 260Z. I am getting no spark off the coil packs when trying to set the initial timing. This is a new ECU and the first time I am trying to start it. When I place the inductive pick up on the Magnecor wire I get nothing on my timing light when turning the engine over. Each wire has been removed and continuity tested. Power, Ground, ECU Grounds have all been tested. I am seeing RPM in the ECU Manager so I know I have a signal from the CAS. This piece is critical to set the timing so the ECU "knows" the correct timing. FIX NOTE: Faulty TIming Light. GRRRR

Casper - I had a very good experience with Wiring Specialties. They completely took my Haltech Sport 2000 Harness and made everything to length, terminated the connectors (to include repairing the 83 Turbo CAS ends). Wiring Specialties had it for 9 weeks, they had projects in front of mine and communicated that to me beforehand. When I opened the box and looked at the completed harness, I was impressed. Talk to Yury about a harness before buying anything. He could have made me one cheaper than the one I bought from Haltech and then had him "cut it to fit". He was responsive to emails and answered the phone or called me back if need be. I took some pictures and did a write up on their work. http://my260z.net/?p=1539 Pete

Just want to comment this worked swimmingly. I used these instructions this weekend and everything in there was exactly what I had to do. I was removing a racing oil pan that holds 7qts going back to the stock pan. You do have to be careful if you are running ARP Studs and 12point nuts. You must remove the steering rack torque thingy to get the pan low enough to clear the studs. I would add that Fel-pro makes snap ups. A stud that allows you to put the gasket up and hold it in place, you can add the pan too and it holds it in place the front is a bit tricky but once you get the pan in place these things are like having two sets of extra hands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Grt7UQLMOko

I am glad Chet was able to get the 240 Series one to him before he passed. I will miss chatting with John.

Dale, If you gave me the bolts when you sold me the axles I still have them. I struggled to find them as well and bought them new from Kameari in Japan. They were cheaper that day because of the exchange rate. Pete

Geeze it has been almost a year since the Haltech purchase. The Sport 2000 installation is kicking off this weekend. My car has been on jackstands since April; only half of the driving season missed. The cooler months in Atlanta are more enjoyable anyway. Ryan, I can't thank you enough for the info on the wheel. Unbelievably, the local pull-a-part only charged me $.50 for the wheel. Is all buttoned up and installed in the distributor. I had a "while I am here moment" and had a shortened distributor cap made by a fabricator friend of mine. It looks great and gave me a really clean looking dizzy. http://my260z.net/?p=1329 Hopefully this install goes off without a hitch. Get the car to run and get it over to a Haltech shop for tuning.

I am a huge fan of isispower's systems. They let you use factory, aftermarket or any switch to operate the systems in your car (lights, wipers,etc) It completely eliminates about 70% of the wiring in a car. I used this system after wiring multiple cars the traditional way. It is far easier to work with and in my opinion creates a much safer car. With this system you are wiring to ground so there is very little current that runs through the actual switches. This is similar to the way the OEM's wire today's cars. Isispower has great customer support and a considerable you tube presence describing the products and how they work. As for affordability; that is a relative term. To me, time and ease of use with good customer support is worth paying for. Doesn't cost anything to check them out. Http://isispower.com. Great place to learn how to do automotive wiring http://www.learntotune.com. Take the Wiring fundamentals course. It's $199 for the online course and provides for a great deal of information. It's taught by Ryan from http://rywire.com (he makes some unbelievable harnesses) Good place to buy quality wire and quality wiring heads. http://www.prowireusa.com I hope this helps get you started. Pete