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Duff

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About Duff

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 11/13/45

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  • Location
    Wexford, Pa.
  • Interests
    Cars, Golf , most other sports
  1. Thanks guys for the replies. Miles, the spread sheet you attached indicated I should find three wires over 125 inches long. I only have two. That convinced me to revisit b/w that is short ,and which I said was not cut.I compared the spade connector on it with the one on the g/w, and although it was very well done, which made me think it was factory, I can now see it is not factory. Mystery solved! Thanks again. l knew I would get what I needed from members of this forum. That spread sheet might be a candidate for a sticky some where.
  2. Please excuse typos, I haven't figured out how to edit after previewing the post.
  3. First a little background, I bought this in 1988 as a Scarab conversion. Later sold the 327 and other components of the conversion. Now I am installing a '83 280ZX non-turbo with SUs. Fortunately the previous owner did not butcher the wiring harness other than cut the water temp sensor wire shorter. Over the past few years I completely disassembled the entire car and now I am in the process of rebuilding. Which get's me to my current project of reinstalling the wiring harness. Pictured are 4 wires currently causing my current frustrations. The yellow wire is water temp, the Green/white and one of the black/white wires go along the passenger side rail across the front and over to the area where the coil and ballast resister were located, where they originally terminated. The second black/white wire is about 35 inches long and ends near the front of the engine connected to ??? ( this wire has not been cut) I tested continuity of the g/w and b/w wires came up with the following: The g/w is connected to the tach and the start position of the ignition switch. The long b/w is connected to the tach. The short b/w is connected to the run position on the ignition switch. According to the schematics I have looked at, the short b/w should connect to the ballast resistor along with the g/w . But since it is about 4 feet short it can't. And to add to the confusion the long b/w should connect to the + side of the coil. As of yet I do not have a battery or coil and I am trying to make sure all connections will be correct before I get them . I am using the 280ZX distributer. so will not need the ballast. I have read the discussions about the changes needed to the wiring to make that work. It would seem all I need to do is connect the long g/w wire to the short b/w wire and make the other wiring change between the coil and the IC. But, being curious I am wondering what the short b/w was originally connected to , and how in the world the original set up worked since it seems It had no connection to coil +. Any education will be appreciated. Thanks.
  4. 240z with 280zx non-turbo exhaust question.

    Thanks to all for the reply. I figured I should let those interested what I finally came up with. I bought on eBay a 240Z head pipe(part number 20010-e4100 which is superseded by 20010-n3000). Then I bought both a gasket for the 280Zx and the 240Z. Using the 280ZX gasket I was able to mark the flange as to where the bolts had to be. The ZX's are larger and in different locations. I filled the 240Z holes with three pieces of a bolt that just fit the holes then welded them in and smoothed both surfaces of the flange. then, using a few drill bits and a rat tailed file I notched the flange. I had a little trouble installing, as one of the pipes that went up into the manifold was out of round and would not allow me to tighten the bolts. After fixing that it fit right in. I like the length of the two runners on the 240Z pipe over the shorter ones on the 280ZX. I hope this helps any one trying the same swap.
  5. 240z with 280zx non-turbo exhaust question.

    Montana, How far down the down pipe did you cut it off?
  6. I am building,rebuilding, really a 71 240z with a na 83 zx engine and 5 speed with SUs. I am building this as a semi-daily driver. As I will be 70 in a couple of months my need for speed has diminished and see no need to build anything but a dependable mostly stock vehicle. Therefore I decided to use the stock zx exhaust manifold versus going the header route. My question is will a stock zx down pipe fit with a minimum amount of modifications,or is a custom pipe needed?
  7. Thanks, I did some more parts searching and found Nissanpartsdeal.com that had parts diagrams and numbers and a way to check if the part you are ordering will fit your application. The 240mm setup comes with the 2+2 so I ordered the sleeve for the 2+2. The part number is 30501-k0400 incase any body else is looking.
  8. I have a follow up question. While doing some more searching I found on another Z site a statement that I would need to use a different release sleeve when I change to the 240 mm set up. Is this correct? I would hate to button this up and install the motor and transmission In the car only to find out I needed to do this.
  9. Thanks,I thought it would, just wanted confirmation before I ordered the parts.
  10. I have an engine and transmission out of a 83zx to put in a 240z. While I have the engine out of the car I want to replace the clutch,pressure plate and flywheel.The clutch and pressure plate because now is a good time to replace them , and the fly wheel because ring gear teeth are damaged. I realize I can replace just the ring gear,but. there seems to be ,at least on EBay, more options that fit the 2+2 than the base coupe. My question is ,if I replace all three will the larger diameter components of the 2+2 (240mm vs 225mm) work?
  11. This Wednesday March 16 on speed channel at 9 pm eastern time they are going to build a couple of 240z in 72 hours. by the looks of the previews , they are going to be radical builds.
  12. Just an fyi for anyone condidering sheet metal parts. I just ordered an outer wheel well housing from Tabco in Ohio,and the web page price was $79+ but it turns out that was the 2003 price. the new price is $126+ Still cheaper than Black Dragon. They said they would update the web, but didn't sound to enthusiastic.
  13. f54 pulley woes

    The third pulley is bolted to the two back pulleys by six bolts. It can be removed. I just don't know if this effects the balance at all. Maybe some one answer that . If it doesn't, taking it of may give you the clearance you need.
  14. Looks a little like a saab sonnet '70's vintage.
  15. Carbureted v8's

    Try this web site http:http://www.mortec.com
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