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dusterbd13

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About dusterbd13

  • Birthday 10/21/1981

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  1. i had done some searching before i posted this, and had not located just what i was looking for. i found a few pictures of the front sections, but nothing clear past the firewall. also found some pictures of the bad dog SFC's, but again, nothing as clear as what i was looking for. and nothing on the rear subframes except a couple of side shots of rusted out ones. maybe i dont know where to look, or how to use the search funtion properly on this forum. as to what im looking for: i know that you can use 2.5 square tubing to replace and reinforce teh front framerails, and that the SFC's are kind of curved. i dont see why i couldnt use a straight piece the whole way back to the rear subframes to build a chassis/unibody car. im looking to make the car almost a monocoque(sp?) once the cage is fabbed and everthing. just a highly functional track car with lights and a plate. the shell im looking at has some rusty floor pans, and possibly some front rail rust. dont know until i get the undercoating and 19 layers of grease off of it. so if i have to so all that, ill do the full monte. if its not got rusty rails, ill make a mostly street car out of it that i can track on occasion. thus uis the reason for my post. im really just trying to get a clear picture of how it all fits together without having purchsed a car to look at yet, to see if this is a project i am capable of tackling, or want to tackle. also, the website you referred me to was very informative, but i still could not get the clear picture i was looking for. but the fixing he did did not look too intimidating. thanks for all the help. Michael
  2. i was looking through the different stuff in the forum about frame rails and rust repair, soing research before buying my basis for a track car. i was wondering if anyone could post pictures of their frames/floorpan areas, or chassis drawinds so i can see how the framerails go into the unibody structure on an s30. im thinking that even with a little rust, i can use some 2.5X2.5 box tubing on the front, tie it the whole bay to the back rails, and do some other structural bracing to boot. thereby getting rid of any potential rust and strengthening the car considerably. anyway, if someone could give me some pictures and drawings so i can see if i am right in my idea of how these cars go together, that would be great. and just in case you were wondering, the car will NOT be super pretty or stock when im done with it. kinda ugly, cheap, and functional is the name of the game at this stage in my life. Michael
  3. i came across what might be the perfect starting point for my new project. 1975 280Z. mostly complete. has all the interior, all themechanicals, and is only missing the left front fender (my buddy bought it off the car before he knew i was looking for one. now he wont sell it back if i buy the car). was blue, has been repainted black. the jambs are still blue. good dash, good door panels, decent rear hatch area. seats and carpet are junk. body has bondo in the back left quarter, both the floorpans are gone, but the rockers seem solid. couldnt tell more due to massive fire ant hills that were starting to look enraged. motor appears to be all there as far as the EFI setup goes. same with the chassis, though the brakes are junk. locked up. 14 inch mags that dont match. glass is good. the guy is asking 350 for it. doesnt run, and he doesnt know if it will. the plan is to build this for a street driven road course car for HPDE. motor swap is an option later if the six cylender is dead. only thing is, i gotta do it on the cheap. being newly married and employed as a social worker makes things a little tough. i guess ny overall question is, should i buy it? fabrication and wrenching are no problem to me, as i run a part time buisness specializing in doing NASA prepped vettes. the rust in the floor really worries me, and its a shame i cant look closer at the underside to see how rusty it is. if i get it back to the shop and it turns out to be too far gone to save, could i get my money back out of it? and lastly, am i being as stupid for thinking of this as my buddy that showed it to me thinks i am? (keep in mind, he makes good money and has only a mortgage to worry about. he paid about 10 times this for a much nicer Z.) so, please advise me. i dont feel like doing something too stupid. i gave as honest appraisal as i could to you for your help in judging it. wish i had taken my camera, or id post pictures, too. thanks Michael
  4. im trying to locate a fuel tank for a project im involved in. bone stock 78 280 Z. the one we have is unsalvageble, and i cant locate a new one. any isea on a manufacturer? also, while were on the topic, anyone make repro fuel line for this car? Michael
  5. i was out looking around after work today for a car to use for HPDE events. i came across a 1982 datsun 280ZX. thecar is non turbo, five speed, and has four wheel discs. the owner says the car needs a computer due to there being a burned spot on the circuit board causing no injector pulse. so i know ill be into it for that at least. im wondering what else i should look at. so i found your board, and want to ask a few questions before i purchase this car. 1) what, other than rust, are common problems? 2) are most parts readily availible? such as brake parts, chassis parts, and other wear items. 3) where would a good place to purchase a computer for a reasonable price be? autozone wants 180. 4) will it be a decent beginning track car in stock form, or should i go back to looking for a 5.0 mustang? 5) what could have caused this computer problem? 6) what parts sources should i look at? 7) any basic setup for track use? i will typically be running kershaw and VIR. thanks for the help. Michael Crawford
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